MS2 Setup Help

[caffeine]

It's normal to lose pressure if the fuel pump isn't running. But anyway if you pull the plenum and prime the pump you should be able to see any leaks.

[Maverick H1L]

AFAIK, since the fuel pump has an anti-drainback valve at its outlet (what the outlet AN fitting screws into), there shouldn't be any pressure loss without a leak. Like stock. When everything cools down again, I'm going to do a couple things:

1. Pull the upper plenum and smell for gas (short fuel hose on FPR and no injector retainers could make a disaster if I pull the rail out)
2. Adjust FPR for 20 PSI of fuel. I'm pulling almost all the fuel out of my VE table and it's running better but it needs more... And I can't go lower than 0 (not there yet but I'm in the teens at idle right now and it's still running like crud)...
3. Swap the MAP sensor for another in case the MAP is somehow reading screwy (already fixed the valve cover and plugged the breather hole in the other head). MAP is reading about 30 kPa at idle...

[Maverick H1L]

FPR now set to 30 PSI...

I do have some adjustability. One of these days, I might get the O2S and the ECM to cooperate with each other so I might eventually know what the O2S is seeing in the exhaust stream (only time I can get to 14.7 AFR is at 2500 RPM, other than that, it's saying lean).

No fuel leaking into intake with pump running. Swapped MAP and still getting same result (and found out I have a BARO sensor as well, not sure how I got it...). I'm hoping throwing the MAF into the equation might help.

I currently have the IAC set ridiculously high... It's the only way I can get the idle to come down below 2000 RPM. And I also disconnected the charcoal canister just in case there was a leak somewhere in there, to no avail.

[caffeine]

My fuel pressure doesn't maintain itself when the car is off, but is fine with the pump running. It is a Supra fuel pump though so may be different.
Edit: it actually did the same with the stock pump too.

What kind of cam are you running?

And have you set the BPW vs. Battery Voltage table correctly? (Or its equivalent in MS). On my car, that table had a HUGE effect on idle.

[Maverick H1L]

Stock cam... I didn't want to be breaking in a new cam while trying to tune the MS at the same time...

I reread the MSII tuning page on base idle... I'll try adjusting it again when I get the time (supposed to be set to lowest MAP reading). Right now, I need to get another gallon of coolant and find out WTF the issue is that my radiator fan isn't turning on at 210* like I have it set... Stupid lower radiator hose keeps blowing off of the radiator (stainless hose into rubber coupler as the stock hose wouldn't play nice with the wonderbar brace) instead of the coolant going into the puke tank.

Primary thing about the idle is that it doesn't currently FEEL right... But that's probably because my exhaust is literally sitting on the track bar brace in the back and the engine crossover pipe is hitting the front of the pass side SFC (BAD vibes!). I'll need to get the front in the air anyways to put the radiator hose back on, so I'll drop the one part of the crossover pipe out and break out the grinder on the SFC. The hanger on the intermediate pipe apparently needs to be bent before I can install the body mount back there and get that snugged up tight.

[robertisaar]

stock cam with that much compression? 30kPa sounds reasonable at stockish idle RPMs.

[Maverick H1L]

I guess that the 30 kPa would be right... Except that it's all over the place without any leaks that I can find. One minute the MS is reporting around 30-34 kPa, and I get the engine up to 2500 and hold it to tune another cell, and then let off... And now the kPa is around 60? I don't get it... Without changing any cells.

Also running into a lot of knock retard... I'm hoping that will be fixed with the adjustments to the exhaust so that the exhaust isn't hitting on parts solidly mounted to the body. I bring the VE cell adjustment up and nothing changes. The knock retard is present even at idle... About 5*.

[Maverick H1L]

Well, I went through and redid several vac lines and now the manifold pressure is holding low. Also fixed the stripped valve cover bolt holes in the passenger's side head.

Also went and pulled out the engine crossover pipe and notched my subframe connector (bolt on SFCs plus PaceSetter headers equals exhaust hitting the SFC) before correcting the exhaust leaks with RTV and putting the front pipe back in. Still have knock retard. Pulled oil pan. Cleaned sludge out of bottom of pan and out of pickup screen, and double checked to make sure con rod bearings were intact and nothing was loose. Haven't restarted engine yet due to broken bolt on alternator bracket, but I do know that the rockers I used, which were originally intended for an SBC with 3/8" studs, are loose on my 10mm factory rocker pivot balls and they have lateral play (but not between the valve and pushrod and lifter), and that's pretty much the only place I can see any "noise" coming from which would be throwing off the knock sensor and causing spark retard (as much as 12 degrees or so where everything's currently set). Since changing fuel and changing spark advance all over the place doesn't seem to be working and all. Will be replacing both rocker arms (with 3100 assemblies) and alternator bracket (with 3.4 Camaro bracket) ASAP.

Also replaced 305 19# fuel injectors with Vette 22# fuel injectors just in case they were bad. Still not holding fuel pressure, but I guess the backflow preventer valve in the fuel pump must be not working...

However, before that, I managed to get roughly the first half of the VE table tuned. And yes, I would be interested in seeing the SA table for the 3100.

[robertisaar]

have a preference what they come from? W and L/N have different tables.

[Maverick H1L]

W might be closer to what I'm going for than the more conservative tunes for the others.

[robertisaar]

you know what, i'll just put all of them into a spreadsheet so you can sort them out however you see fit.

i'll put the latest calibration's main SA tables for a few applications in it, even some of the neat leaded fuel export stuff.

[robertisaar]

here you go, W, L and N body 3100 SA tables, including the probably saudi arabian L and W cars that ran pretty much no emissions equipment, leaded fuel and other fun stuff.

[Maverick H1L]

Okay, I had to figure out how to get it open (blasted Works), but I finally got it. From what I understand, the numbers along the top are MAP kPa, correct? RPM seems self-explanatory. Now I just need to figure out what I should do with an upper RPM limit of 6500. I'll probably keep the numbers close to the same.

[robertisaar]

yes, top axis is MAP in kPa.

at the very least, it's a place to start.

[Maverick H1L]

Can anyone running an MSII on a relatively stock engine help me out with some ASE and WUE curves? I haven't looked at my curves in a while, but I think I have max 20% enrich on either the WUE or both. It's still running rich until it's warmed up. I have a nice soot spot on my rear bumper.

I also went and got the proper pipe for the "rear" valve cover to get some air into the engine... Since it seems that running with the hole plugged screwed up my oil and turned it into gum that clogged the oil pump pickup... I need to hook up the laptop to the MSII again, but it seems like I now have a vacuum leak as I can hear a sucking noise coming from that area. If I open the throttle, the engine will eventually stall out (as I open the throttle slowly, not if held) unless I release it really quickly, and I can't stab it or it will stall.

I also ran out of gas and need to go get some more. Followed by resetting the spark offset in the MSII because I had to move the crank trigger a couple of degrees with the 3.4 Camaro alternator and bracket setup, which interferes with the TCE trigger bracket. I believe it's about 5* offset from the original position and will check when I get gas again. Yes, it does run, but it's running pig rich due to the above...