3.4 swap into 1985 Jeep Cherokee questions?

[bszopi]

Hmm... as far as the codes go, you might be SOL. Cause now that you mention it, even if you had the port, I'm thinking the ECM is an OBD-1.5 setup, so you can do the old "paperclip" method anyway. So you may not be able to pull codes.

[ssterlingb]

One side of the MIL goes to 12+ ignition & the other side to the ECM on B7 BRN/WHT

[cardana24]

I would use a 12v light instead of an LED. Since the ECM provides the ground, it might use the 12v+ feed through the bulb to complete some kind of diagnostic circuit. An LED is a diode, & won't let the current flow through when unlit.

That's fine I can pick up one of those tomorrow. Which two wires would I run to it? I see the one that goes to it, but what is the other one?

[ssterlingb]

I would use a 12v light instead of an LED. Since the ECM provides the ground, it might use the 12v+ feed through the bulb to complete some kind of diagnostic circuit. An LED is a diode, & won't let the current flow through when unlit.

[cardana24]

I have some extra LED's laying around, I could hook one of those up so I can see the check engine light, but then how would I check the code? I don't have an ALDL (I forget the initials but the diagnostic port) hook up and I don't have the reader. I was reading that you can just ground to pins on the port and you can get the codes, but I don't even have that port. How can I go about finding the codes if I only have a CEL but not port to read it?

[bszopi]

IIRC, he doesn't have that light hooked up. But it would definately be a good idea to hook it up to some light source, as it could also tell you what sensor is your problem (if it is a sensor).

10 Pin Blue Harness
*Lt Blue- C10 2nd start mode switch signal (not hooked to anything but when the ignition is switched on it gets 12V)
*Brown/White- B7 SES indicator control Nothing
*White- Nothing (Caynonaro said its for the tachometer) Nothing yet, I'm waiting for my MSD adaptor thing
*Dk Blue- Nothing Nothing
*Green/White- A2 A/C request Nothing
*Pink- C3 Ignition Feed Hooked to the ignition line from the jeep
*Lt Blue/Black- A18 Brake signal Nothing

[ssterlingb]

Do you have the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, or service engine soon light) hooked up yet? If so, it should be on when you turn on the key on and stay on untill it starts. If the light does not go on, it indicates that the VAT is the problem.

[cardana24]

still the same thing. Crank then sputters out. I still cannot push the gas pedal to make the engine race either. I have tried both computers again. I now have power at the crank sensor pink wire, the ICM pink wire, and the cam position sensor pink wire. Also the pink/black wires that come off of the cam and crank sensors are going back to the correct pin on the ecm...the #6 injector feed line. That's about it. I could use some help here.

[cardana24]

Have continuity from those connectors back to fuse?

Sure you have the VATS bypass on there right? Seems like if it were firing at all, your crank sensor would be working, right? I think it can run without the cam sensor, it will just run the injection as MPFI instead of SFI. Actually, you changed the cam didn't you? Might not be able to use the cam position at all. What did you put in?

Which connectors are you talking about?

As for the VATS bypass I assume I have it hooked up right. When I turn the ignition on the led lights up. I don't have my wiring diagrams with me right now so I cannot give you pin numbers. I have the power wire for the vats bypass hooked to the ignition wire on the ecm. I have the VATS bypass wire going to the dark blue wire, and then the ground is soldered into one of the ecm grounds. Should I try grounding the bypass somewhere else rather than tieing into the ecm ground?

[Canyonero]

Have continuity from those connectors back to fuse?

Sure you have the VATS bypass on there right? Seems like if it were firing at all, your crank sensor would be working, right? I think it can run without the cam sensor, it will just run the injection as MPFI instead of SFI. Actually, you changed the cam didn't you? Might not be able to use the cam position at all. What did you put in?

[cardana24]

It shows a 10 amp fuse feeding the pink wire to the cam position sensor and the ICM. It is on page 3 of what I sent you earlier.

Yeah I see that in the wiring diagram. I am confused why I would be getting power at the ICM and not at the cam or crank sensors, because it looks like they all tap into the same line.

[ssterlingb]

It shows a 10 amp fuse feeding the pink wire to the cam position sensor and the ICM. It is on page 3 of what I sent you earlier.

[ssterlingb]

On my diagram it shows that the ICM & cam position senseor is fed by a fused 12v feed from the ignition switch

[cardana24]

Okay, a little bit of progress. I re did my grounds so now they are run to the factory location by the water inlet. I am now able to run a wire from the ignition to the pink wire going into the two pin connection being pluged into the top of the icm. the wire no longer gets hot or smokes.

Now when I turn the engine over it actually fires, but will not fully catch...it burbles for about a second then turns off. So I am still having problems. With the cam postion sensor I am still not getting 12Vs when the ignition is switched on to the pin that should be getting 12V I am guessing this may have something to do with my problem? With my set up is the ECM supposed to be feeding the cam sensor power or is that something that I need to be running from the ignition?

Also when I push the gas pedal it does not race the engine or anything, it still cranks/sputters out the same way it does if I am not pressing the gas at all. Any suggestions? I'm going to go look over wiring diagrams more.

[cardana24]

bszopi@60degreev6.com or you can just post them in the photo gallery. Once I get them, if they are good copies, I'll place them on the site for others to use.

sending them now. Let me know what you think.