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3500 (LX9) swap into a Fiero
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Cannot "knock retard" be "tuned" out of the equation? If not, shouldn't the KS be mounted closer to the head deck?
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Guest repliedWhy do you need an idler pulley to replace the power steering pump? The timing covers are the same across the 3500s and since the G6 3500 does not use a power steering pump thanks to the electric rack it shouldn't be a problem unless an extra pulley is the difference between the motors. The knock sensor goes in the coolant drain plug hole on the side of the block. You'll need A/C hoses from both cars and a good hose shop to connect the ends if you intend to use the newer style A/C compressor. It will also need to be a little longer than the stock Fiero A/C hose from the compressor.Originally posted by flimbob View PostDecided to use an idler pulley mounted to the same location as the malibus and g6s. Installed the belt from a 2004 malibu and everything functions perfectly. I'm in the process of wrapping up some loose ends such as the CTS. I acquired a CTS from a 96 Pontiac grandam which is the 3 prong type. This will allow me to send info to the gauge and the ecu. Also ordered a 12MM-6FP adapter so I won't have to drill and tap the original CTS location. My ECU is from a 92 Cavalier, so I obtained a knock sensor from that vehicle. Not sure where it needs to be installed. In the process of obtaining the ac flex tubing from a V6 Fiero so I can have an adapter created that will plug and play the 3x00 flex tubing to the Fieros hard tubing.
Starting to think about exhaust creation. Will need a cat here in Texas. Looking at possibly using a Magniflo high flow unit with some flex tubing and some radical 180 and 90 degree bends. Space is tight, so I will consider smaller cherry bomb type mufflers for each output pipe. I intend to reuse my original tips. Will use clamps initially, but eventually get the system welded. I want to keep me trunk completely intact as there is very little storage space on a Fiero as it is. I would like to use 2 1/4" tubing as it is pretty close to stock for the LX9( I think ). Please chime in if you have any input on exhaust ideas, and/or knock sensor location.
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Decided to use an idler pulley mounted to the same location as the malibus and g6s. Installed the belt from a 2004 malibu and everything functions perfectly. I'm in the process of wrapping up some loose ends such as the CTS. I acquired a CTS from a 96 Pontiac grandam which is the 3 prong type. This will allow me to send info to the gauge and the ecu. Also ordered a 12MM-6FP adapter so I won't have to drill and tap the original CTS location. My ECU is from a 92 Cavalier, so I obtained a knock sensor from that vehicle. Not sure where it needs to be installed. In the process of obtaining the ac flex tubing from a V6 Fiero so I can have an adapter created that will plug and play the 3x00 flex tubing to the Fieros hard tubing.
Starting to think about exhaust creation. Will need a cat here in Texas. Looking at possibly using a Magniflo high flow unit with some flex tubing and some radical 180 and 90 degree bends. Space is tight, so I will consider smaller cherry bomb type mufflers for each output pipe. I intend to reuse my original tips. Will use clamps initially, but eventually get the system welded. I want to keep me trunk completely intact as there is very little storage space on a Fiero as it is. I would like to use 2 1/4" tubing as it is pretty close to stock for the LX9( I think ). Please chime in if you have any input on exhaust ideas, and/or knock sensor location.Last edited by flimbob; 06-11-2010, 04:02 PM.
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The PS pump does not appear to be serviceable. I was able to remove the reservoir, but the pump itself looks like the only way to open it is to remove the wire clamp which holds the bottom of the pump to the pump case. Is this the correct way to get at the vanes? I'm making an assumption that the pump is a vane type.
Addendum: I found info on how to get the pump apart, so it looks like I'm moving ahead on the PS pump. I'm assuming the reservoir is needed only to lubricate the pump. I might look into leaving the reservoir off and putting a short piece of hose filled with fluid. The reason for leaving the reservoir off is that it looks like it may cause height problems.Last edited by flimbob; 06-01-2010, 09:21 AM.
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What scrabblegod said about "idling" the power steering pump is the correct method. The only other thing I would mention is to use synthetic fluid due to the heat.
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Got the tranny and engine mated. Both are mounted on the cradle. Mounted the alternator, starter, and ac compressor. Ordered a crank sensor and evap solenoid valve. Still haven't decided what to do about the ps pump. Rewired the fuel injector harness to eliminate the cam sensor. I will need to have an ac hose extension created that will mate between the Fiero long tubes and the 3x00 dual compressor lines. I figure the small extension will allow me to quick change hoses if needed. I also need to get the ac hose sensor installed. I need to research where the sensor need s to be ( high or low side ). Things left to do before removing my existing engine/tranny:
1) Create return style fuel regulator.
2) resolve 440t4 issues.
3) Resolve CTS issue.
4) Obtain a 96 EGR tube.
5) Start exhaust design.
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If the high pressure side of the ps pump was connected to the low pressure side, wouldn't the pressure relief valve bleed the pressure off?
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On my wifes 3.4DOHC Fiero, I wanted to keep the stock belt, so I opened up the pump and removed the pump vanes so there would be no pressure. This allowed me to plug the lines and keep the pump full of fluid for lubrication.
Gene
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If you were to leave a PS pump on there, I would suggest running a short hose from the pressure side to the return. If you plug the holes it will operate at max pressure, create more hp loss and reduced pump life.
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Received the alternator late yesterday afternoon. Starter is the only missing piece except for PS delete pulley. None of the Pick-n-Pulls around here have vehicles with LX9 engines. Anyone have an idea how much horsepower is robbed by the PS pump? I'm wondering if I could just leave the pump hooked up and plug the tube. That way if I ever decide to modify my Fiero for power steering, I'll have the pump ready to go.
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Picked up an ac compressor from the local pick-n-pull. The top 2 bolts work fine, but the bottom bolt does not fit correctly. Others have posted this should not be a problem. Got an alternator and starter from Ebay. They should be here next week. Received and installed the TCE crank trigger. Making good progress.Last edited by flimbob; 05-16-2010, 09:30 PM.
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I obtained an alternator bracket and found that I will not be able to swap the valve covers around. It appears the bracket interferes with the valve cover vacuum connector. Well I guess going back to the stock location won't be so bad. I won't have to worry about all the interferance issues I';m having now.
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I have swapped the valve covers so that they match the original Fiero configuration. The black hard pipe coming from top of water pump that comes from heater core is blocking the ccv hole in the valve cover. It also has some interference caused by the TB adapter as the black hard pipe was originally mounted to the TB. I guess one way of fixing this would be to cut the black hard pipe very close to the top of the water pump and use a flexible hose to connect to the heater core. Then I could use a small air filter in the ccv hole. Any feedback on this?
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I removed the Fiero timing cover and stripped the paint from the water passages. I started looking over the whole design, along with the harmonic balancer I modified. The reason I wanted to use the Fiero timing cover was to eliminate having to cut the decklid and to be able to reuse the alternator and belt routing. I found I was just not comfortable taking the chance that the balancer was modified correctly. I also was concerned that the balancer outer ring would slip over time. There were also issues related to plumbing that frankly I don't understand. My donor vehicle ( 86 Fiero GT auto ) is my daily driver. It is imperative that all work be done prior to pulling the 2.8 out. That means all electrical ( harness and wiring ), plumbing, mechanical linkage, and exhaust needs to be completed on the cradle. I reinstalled the 3500 timing cover and harmonic balancer. I will bite the bullet and purchase the TCE crank trigger. Money is very tight( no job ). It looks like it may be close to August before it all comes together. I am about 90% complete on the harness. I originally thought that my LX9 was going to be complete with all accessories as everything was present when I went to purchase it. It appears that the yard removed these items prior to delivering the motor. In their haste to get them off, they removed the ac bracket and the alternator bracket as well. So, as it stands now, I need to come up with an alternator with bracket, a starter, and an ac compressor with bracket. I have decided that Ben is the best avenue to take regarding tuning. I will be contacting him in a month or so to get the ball rolling. I'm going to be asking lots of questions concerning plumbing as there are some deletions and rerouting to be done.
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I'm sure that amount of paint could possibly clog or at least partially clog a heater core as well.
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