6 speed RWD 60šV6 tranny?

[2.8-350TBI]

Sweet. I wonder if either the TK0 or T56 could be converted to a 4WD tail housing for use in a 4WD or AWD Truck.

I know that the t56 can, I read of a guy on sy/ty that did it, but he had to have a custom section made to be able to bolt up the transfer case. And he put in a ford lol. EDIT: Found the link. http://home.comcast.net/~xr4x4ti/V8_AWD_Pictures.htm

What I plan to do is a 4lX0E behind a boosted 3500 and AWD in my new blazer

[geoffinbc]

Sweet. I wonder if either the TK0 or T56 could be converted to a 4WD tail housing for use in a 4WD or AWD Truck.

[2.8-350TBI]

I think I found something promising

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/borg_warner_six_speed_transmission_install/index.html

[bob442]

I didnt want to make this into a argument, which it hasnt. but just express my belief till proven other wise, which it was.

[geoffinbc]

Yes the diff is weaker on the coast side but your never getting full power braking from the engine anyway it is only a fraction of the actual power of the motor. So if full throttle in first gear can't break the diff then engine braking down a long hill in third or fourth on the highway will never even stress the diff.

Engine braking as far as the motor is concerned is actually good for it. The large vacuum on the cylinder head side of the motor sucks oil up into the ring pack and lubes up the cylinder walls and cools the piston. The large vacuum, and in some cars where the ECM shuts off fuel, there is no combustion or if there is fuel delivery the combustion cycle produces little heat because the ECM sees no throttle and large vacuum meaning it is delivering as little fuel as possible. So you also cool the cylinder heads.

On a large downhill grade my trooper temp pulls right down to where the thermostat closes. When I took my S-10 camping I came down a 7% grade which was about a 10 min descent and all I had to do was stick it in 4th and then I shut the fuel pump off. But since the key was on and the engine was still spinning at 2500RPM or so everything works as if it was still actually running. I could even still use the throttle to bleed off vacuum and reduce the amount of engine braking. Near the bottom of the hill I flicked the switch back on and the engine came to live smoothly like it was a hybrid car.

A diesel highway tractor uses a combination of a compression brake (Jake brake) and an exhaust brake. They can provide 100% power of the engine as braking force and with the ultra low gearing they can hold a 120,000LB load at bay down the steepest hill. Considerable load is placed on the engine and drive train in these situations but they easily run for a million miles doing this every single day. So no I do not consider engine braking a risky or destructive process.

[bob442]

I personally just think its more stress on the drive train using a engine brake. your diff is working in reverse, which is when it's 40% weeker due to the cut of the gears, and i kinda look at the abuse of the motor being done as if you were reving a motor with out and drag, by that i mean reving a motor with out a clutch or TC on it, just free spin. IIRC, there was a discution about it on this forum a long time ago

[2.8-350TBI]

LOL you don't engine brake by dragging the clutch on every gear change. Engine braking is for long downhill descents. If the clutch is engaged there is no wear. As for down shifting and using engine braking before a light if I do it then I always rev match I never slip my chutch on downshifts or upshifts.

Well put BTY.
I really like the ability have good engine braking on manuals, which I prefer, and well said on rev matching; it feels like crap when slipping the clutch to downsift.

Wouldnt automatics with lockup converters engine brake just as good if the TC was locked tho?

[geoffinbc]

so you'd sooner be replacing $300 clutch's from engine braking thank $40 brake pads? thats another thing i dont get about some stick drivers

LOL you don't engine brake by dragging the clutch on every gear change. Engine braking is for long downhill descents. If the clutch is engaged there is no wear. As for down shifting and using engine braking before a light if I do it then I always rev match I never slip my chutch on downshifts or upshifts.

[pocket-rocket]

Go to truck driver training to learn to drive a big rig. You don't use the service brakes (pads) to go down a mountain, you use the engine as an engine brake. Otherwise you smoke your brakes and have no way of stopping. Besides, if you don't buy a junk clutch, they last surprisingly long unless you over power them.

[bob442]

so you'd sooner be replacing $300 clutch's from engine braking thank $40 brake pads? thats another thing i dont get about some stick drivers

[geoffinbc]

Yea I have to agree with the shitty engine braking on an auto. Off road they are terrible for any low speed descent. No wonder trucks come with hill decent control now. In first gear low range on my Trooper I can crawl down very steep inclines at a very controlled rate. On the highway an auto is not bad but they still leave a lot to be desired.

[bob442]

(unless, of course, if you ONLY want to accelerate.)

soRRy Betty White lol




Jokes

[Driver_10]

paddle shift? or manual valve?

Auto = torque converter
Torque concerter = hydraulic coupler
hydraulic coupler = no "controlled" engine braking or control over clutch/driveline engagement

Hence, auto ("flappy paddle" or otherwise) = no real car control
(unless, of course, if you ONLY want to accelerate.)

[2.8-350TBI]

Paddle shift or two buttons on a hurst style shifter.

[bob442]

Theres no real control over them other than blindly mashing the gas pedal and hoping for the best.

paddle shift? or manual valve?