2000 Malibu 3.1 V6 - Radiator fan won't turn on

[SkortchGT]

Another update on the P0449 code:

I searched the forum and found it is for a solenoid for the charcoal canister in the rear of the car near the gas tank. I jacked up the car, and the wires going to the solenoid were cut. Looks like I might of ran over something that went up there and cut the wires. I spliced them back together, and all is ok now. Car runs great, no check engine lights, finally ready for the job of being me new daily driver.

Thanks again everyone for your input, much appreciated.

[SkortchGT]

Update: Problem finally fixed!

The new fan assembly fixed the problem. The driver's side motor was bad. Classic bad electric motor symptoms. Turned the fan by hand once I got the old assembly out and the motor was completely shot. I also noticed the fuse was half burned out. Only a hair of metal left between the two terminals to complete the circuit. Probably caused by the bad motor shorting out and frying the fuse.

Installed the new fan assembly and new fuse, and both fans now run like they should. Thank you everyone for all of your help, very much appreciated!

Now a new problem, I am getting a check engine light, code P0449. Everytime I clear it, it comes back. Ugh, it's a never ending battle lol. Anyone famliar with this code?

[IanSzgatti]

Dang.. you know this thread is now officially a good one. Thanks so much for the updates... it's really quite educational!!

[SkortchGT]

Hi all, quick update:

The new ECM didn't fix the problem. I did come across this though, seems like it might be the problem I am having: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...4065850AA81UMn

Have seen this before on Malibu, Impala, Oldsmobile, and Buick full size in those years. One good place to check is the radiator cooling and condenser fans. They are two fans behind the radiator and sold as a complete assembly. What you usually find is that one of the fan motors has gone bad and is either shorting out, or turning slower and arcing inside the motor. What this does is put a voltage surge and static into the electrical system that the computer cannot handle. It causes the GM computers on these cars to go haywire. Causes the exact problems that you are describing and sometimes different symptoms such as AC compressor going off and temp guage suddenly reading either totally hot, or totally cold when that is not hte case. Turning off the car often resets it for a bit and in the case of the ac compressor and some other symptoms removing the battery or power to the computer for 10 minutes or so causes it to often work fine for a day or so. However the cooling fan motor being defective means that it will soon do it again, often in a few minutes of drive time. We have changed out many of these cooling fan assemblies. I know that you mentioned the fan inside not working, but that is not the fan that is defective. It is only a symptom of the problem. GM has had tons of problems iwth this very thing and if you read the forums on Impala and Malibu in particular you will see all sorts of attempt to correct this that usually involve changing computers, etc. Computer is normally not defective. It is simply unable to handle the voltage surge and static from the bad cooling fan. The cooling fans are most often to blame and because even the defective cooling fan motor often continues to run (though at a reduced speed) it is usually completely overlooked. Because there are two fans at the radiator, even with one still running the motor usually won't overheat unless severe hot weather. that is why often folks never even look at that for the problem. I bet that if you have the radiator fan assemblies checked you will find one of them bad. Sold as complete assemblies from the dealer and just over 200 bucks if memory serves. As far as I know cannot buy individual motors or parts but only the entire assembly. After replacing, if they are bad, be sure and remove power from the computer for 30 minutes to clear out the stored problems and it should work good. There are many other electrical problems with those cars as well, but we have found that this particular problem has caused almost all the "computer or wiring" related problems that we have seen with these cars as other than that they are relatively dependable in use. Good luck regardless and hope you get it fixed soon.

Given this, I ordered a completely new fan assembly including new fan motors. I will install this weekend and report back. I've been driving the car around with just the passenger side fan running and it's not overheating at all. I could probably drive around forever like this, but the problem really gets to me. I just want to fix it!

[IanSzgatti]

Yeah it is buddy... the large port 3100 moves that car really nice. Wheel bearings are easy as fuck to change if needed, and the suspension isn't overly complex in design which allows for simple diagnosis and replacement of parts.
If you ask my opinion the car is awsome....

[SkortchGT]

Well, didn't get to it (again) this weekend. Am waking up early this Saturday to get it done. Can't wait to get this car on the road, should be a great daily driver.

[IanSzgatti]

your getting married, so a temp problem should be the least of your problems... HA HA HA!!!!

that aside, a bad ground or resistance in the circuit could cause the computer to get false info... despite the fact you've tripped the relays and seen them both working... thing is, at least you know then which side of the circuit to look on....
all THAT aside, i think your EMC will solve your problem.. so yeah...thats that, let us know prisoner.

[SkortchGT]

Quick update on this.

I bought and OBDII scanner. No codes were present, active, or stored. I have a new ECM I will be installing this weekend to see if it fixes the problem. If not, I'll return it and begin to troubleshoot wiring. I can't see any problems with the wiring though as the circuit seems to be good as previously mentioned.

I just hope I can get to it this weekend. My finace and I are getting married on 10/18/08, so much to do on the weekends it's crazy.

[SkortchGT]

My temp gauge has always worked though, so this is a weird problem I am having.

[SkortchGT]

If you have the A/C on or you have certain stored DTCs, then that fan will come on early. These codes will store without the SES light coming on. I really think you need to check your codes first before bothering with another ECM. You may be wasting your money.

I'm speaking from experience on this. My coolant temp sensor went bad in my 2000 Grand Am. As a result the temp gauge went to 100*f (dead), 1 radiator fan turned on and NO SES light. I changed the sensor and it still didn't fix the problem. Decided to check for DTCs and found 2 stored codes. One was for an intermittent coolant sensor reading. Immediately upon clearing it, my temp gauge returned to normal and the radiator fan turned off.

No kidding, I just ordered an ODBII scan tool I'll be picking up from Advance Auto after work this afternoon. I already ordered the ECM. I can always return it though, Advance usually takes anything back.

I still think it's weird that the other fan won't turn on when I turn the A/C on, although a stored code may be causing that to happen as well.

[sprucegagt]

If you have the A/C on or you have certain stored DTCs, then that fan will come on early. These codes will store without the SES light coming on. I really think you need to check your codes first before bothering with another ECM. You may be wasting your money.

I'm speaking from experience on this. My coolant temp sensor went bad in my 2000 Grand Am. As a result the temp gauge went to 100*f (dead), 1 radiator fan turned on and NO SES light. I changed the sensor and it still didn't fix the problem. Decided to check for DTCs and found 2 stored codes. One was for an intermittent coolant sensor reading. Immediately upon clearing it, my temp gauge returned to normal and the radiator fan turned off.

[SkortchGT]

Did you check and clear all stored DTCs? I would do this regardless if the SES light is on or off.

Your second fan won't turn on until about 232*F. The first one kicks on at about 223*F.

I didn't check any codes yet, the car isn't throwing any CELs or SESs. I only have scan tools and dataloggers for OBDI Mitsubishis. I'll be buying a GM OBDII scan tool this week.

The only fan that I see running is the passengar side fan. Funny thing is, this fan turns on within 2-5 minutes after I start the car (when the car is no where near 223*F).

This problem is really tricky. I have a re-man ECM on the way as well to see if this will fix the problem or not.

[sprucegagt]

Did you check and clear all stored DTCs? I would do this regardless if the SES light is on or off.

Your second fan won't turn on until about 232*F. The first one kicks on at about 223*F.

[SkortchGT]

Thanks for the info. Where are the ECUs located on these cars?

Looks like I'll be needing the actual dealer service manuals other then this junk Chilton manual I have in order to figure out which pins are which.

The fans on the car are the stock original fans.

[lilrebel68]

did you put these fans on yourself or did they come with the car?? If you did it yourself, like i did, you could wire them in series, so when the first fan comes on, the other one has no choice but to come on..

I hadnt thought about it but as hot as it gets here in New Orleans.. maybe I need to have two fans... but in Canada, I am not too sure you need two fans... unless the car came that way, of course..