Is the 2.8l really what I want?

[Superdave]

I think I still have one of those adapters if you want it.

[caffeine]

Oil filter question:

(1) What's the little hole next to the filter area? Sensor?
(2) Is it possible to use a spin-on filter here, without the relocation bracket that the LX9 had? (My block didn't come with anything here)

The hole next to the filter is an oil pressure port that can be used for a sensor or switch, or a feed for a turbo. There is also another port closer to the rear of the block.

To attach an oil filter directly to the block, just use a 10mm Allen socket or wrench to remove the fitting from the stock oil filter relocation bracket. Then screw it directly into the block.

[caffeine]

Another question: What's this sensor (location, front of block, next to LIM) & am I going to have enough room to plug in the other connector, considering that my manifold is now turned around? The casting mark is VERY close to the plug here, as you can see.



Also, should I tap the lower intake water port in the photo, and insert a plug (what size works?), or use this as a feed for my heater core?

The sensor is the can position sensor which I don't believe you're using anymore. However leave it in to plug the hole.

In the RWD swaps that I've done I've tapped the hole in the lower intake to 1/2" NPT (hole is already big enough) and installed my CTS there with a 1/2-3/8" reducer fitting.

[caffeine]

Here's a question for anyone running one of these engines: Where did you mount the coil pack? On the engine (like it came stock), or somewhere on the car?

If I switch the valve covers around (again) and put the oil-fill on the left side, as original, then I believe I can mount the bracket & coil pack on the engine, as it came. I can't foresee any issues with this, since the only thing different on the top end is the reversed upper manifold, which shouldn't interfere.

Otherwise, I'll have to mount it on the firewall or inner fender, buy new plug wires, and adjust everything to fit.

Mounting it on the engine is what I've usually done in the past

[Ghosteh]

Oil filter question:

(1) What's the little hole next to the filter area? Sensor?
(2) Is it possible to use a spin-on filter here, without the relocation bracket that the LX9 had? (My block didn't come with anything here)

[Ghosteh]

Another question: What's this sensor (location, front of block, next to LIM) & am I going to have enough room to plug in the other connector, considering that my manifold is now turned around? The casting mark is VERY close to the plug here, as you can see.



Also, should I tap the lower intake water port in the photo, and insert a plug (what size works?), or use this as a feed for my heater core?

[Ghosteh]

Here's a question for anyone running one of these engines: Where did you mount the coil pack? On the engine (like it came stock), or somewhere on the car?

If I switch the valve covers around (again) and put the oil-fill on the left side, as original, then I believe I can mount the bracket & coil pack on the engine, as it came. I can't foresee any issues with this, since the only thing different on the top end is the reversed upper manifold, which shouldn't interfere.

Otherwise, I'll have to mount it on the firewall or inner fender, buy new plug wires, and adjust everything to fit.

[Ghosteh]

Update: It's too freaking cold to do anything in the garage!!!! Come-on Spring!

Soon, I'll be taking the car to a place to get the motor mounts done. In the meanwhile, I need to pull my old engine and trans, and get the LX9 bolted up so the mounts can be fab'd. I'm reviewing all the old threads in here on the trans/flywheel/bellhousing issues & will get that all ironed out.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the '95ish 3.4 Camaro flywheel & clutch would be a good match. For a moment, I considered an aluminum flywheel, but I think this car is going to be light enough that I'll have no problems with quick revs, and I'd rather have a smooth idle and easy clutch release. The stock Camaro configuration should be more than fine.

[1988GTU]

I guess that I'll slot them & try. If you guys are getting a good seal, then I don't see why I wouldn't.
Worst case scenario is that I have to pull them later & rework the flanges.

Only time issues came about with something like this is when there was less than 1/8" surface area being sealed OR the material was thin with the findings that the face was warped. All in which meant putting on a new flange.

[Ghosteh]

I guess that I'll slot them & try. If you guys are getting a good seal, then I don't see why I wouldn't.
Worst case scenario is that I have to pull them later & rework the flanges.

[1988GTU]

I would cut the area in the flange for the dipstick. The slotting should pose an issue for sealing. Just be sure to measure twice and slot once!

[caffeine]

You should be able to remove the dipstick and reinstall it after the headers are bolted on. I've slotted the lower holes in iron head headers before with no sealing issues.

O2 sensor can be placed in the collector or shortly after.

[Ghosteh]

Ok guys, on the the next problem!

The headers that I had made for the old 2.8 don't fit for a few reasons. (and this is after looking at pg.2, post #12 - Caffeine's example)

First, the port shape is different (not a huge deal). 2nd, the flat stock on the left side will interfere with the dipstick tube. 3rd, the bolt pattern is off more than I expected. "Slotting" the lower bolt hole would work, but that's not giving me much meat to bolt down on those lower bolts.

So I'm off to my buddy's shop over the Christmas holiday to figure this one out. I made a very accurate template and we'll probably just cut out new ends and replace what I had on there.

One question that I had was about the oxygen sensor: Where's the best place to put it? I have more room on the passenger side (right), and I could have a port put on the pipe, after the header, or we could just put one in the header while we're cutting & welding on it. Opinions?

Caffeine, do you have sensors on each runner on your exhaust photo?

[3400-95-Modified]

I've only used RTV where I've seen it from the factory and the only addition is those coolant ports. Never had an issue with putting the thinnest layer around them only. My engine's have stayed dry for over 2 years... I think that's the longest I had one together LOL.

[1988GTU]

Paper gaskets go on dry unless you have heavy pitting. If pitting or deep grooves are present, a light coat of oil resistant RTV is all that is needed. Do not just use RTV or any other goop. Those bolts have a torque spec and irregular clamping with a set torque can cause ya nightmares.