intake bolt part number request. 1997 Lumina 3.1

[frank b]

I am about to do a lower intake manifold gasket replacement on my 3.1L Lumina. I have the revised gaskets, a few other bits, but I need the part numbers for the intake bolts. Or can they be re-used?
Thanks

[19Cutlass94]

you can re-use them.

[frank b]

thanks

[IsaacHayes]

Yep they aren't torqued that much so you re-use them. Make sure to torque in the right sequence and with a torque wrench. Also the oil pump drive shaft o-ring should be replaced at this time if you don't already plan on it. Keep the pushrods in order so you don't bend valves.

[tractorman]

Lemme repeat the for him.

KEEP THEM PUSHRODS IN ORDER. DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE UNLESS YOU'RE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT ALL PUSHRODS ARE PROPERLY IN PLACE AND IN THEIR ORIGINAL LOCATION.

Thanks for bearing with me. The intake and exaust pushrods are different lengths... and it'll bend valves and cost you hundreds of dollars in a matter of seconds if you put a long one where a short one oughtta be. Be careful.

About the intake bolts- GM does sell new bolts that they reccomend using... but the only difference is that they have solid locktite printed onto them. For $4 per bolt... you're much better off cleaning your old bolts and applying your own locktite. I use red. Some folks are scared of that and use blue. Either will work... just don't use green.

Get the Fel-Pro "problem saver" metal/rubber gaskets. They solve this nasty little inherent design flaw for good.

+1 on the distributor o-ring reccomendation. GM sells an improved o-ring (it's brown) that's supposed to seal better and last longer.

[MantaGreen97]

Yep, threadlocker is definitely a must for those intake bolts--that's one of two main parts of the intake manifold gasket problem, the bolts failing to retain specified torque. (The second problem being the gasket failing, of course; but note the bolts backing out is just as much of a problem as the gasket failing.)

As for the oil pump drive shaft o-ring, how is this replaced? I'm curious as I have everything off the engine now, and if it's a "might as well" item, I guess I might as well, LOL!

[Azrael]

Does anyone have a part # for this new o-ring?

[tractorman]

I don't have a part number... but any GM parts dept. should have no trouble with it.

Here's a quick "how-to" on that o-ring.

The oil pump drive is basically the bottom half of a distributor. You'll see it down in the V, kinda under where the throttle body mounts, held in with a fork and a single bolt. Remove the bolt and fork. Grab the round thingy with vice-grips. Wiggle your thingy around and pull it out. Replace the rubber (o-ring). Lube that rubber (o-ring) and the hole with some grease (everything works better with lube). Reinstall the thingy- it might not line up the first time... you may have to be persistent and try a few different positions until your shaft lines up. Play it cool if the g/f notices something is up.

It's not too big a deal. I've also heard of people installing a small-block chevy distributor gasket under that oil pump drive in addition to the o-ring. Sounds like a good idea, but I've never tried it myself.

[IsaacHayes]

I'll write the # down tommorow. I saw the paper work from the dealer laying downstairs yesterday.

LOL @ tractormans post.

[bszopi]

PN is in the TSB...

http://60degreev6.com/Articles/Pushrod/3x00_Maint/TSB/TSB14-3x00.html