3500 swap questions

[IsaacHayes]

Disable EGR = stop it from opening up. (shut it off)
Remove EGR = different story.

And Jon, probably those people say it it's tuned to perfection meaning they drive it and it runs without dying, and thats it. Probably not paying attention to the data logs... lol

[PCGUY112887]

Ah I get it now, thanks.

Sorry 3400 for making you mad, I may really need your help since it's hard to read the tuning guides made for non-swapped 3800's

[3400-95-Modified]

Disable the EGR yes... to remove it No, you need to remove associated codes as well since its still going to want to see it there closed.

You didnt make me mad its just a few other dopes on Bstuff that are driving me nuts.

[PCGUY112887]

Thanks guys.

Do I have to rip apart my dash to replace the temp warning light bulb? I don't know why there are so many bulbs burnt out... half of the ones behind the guages are out and no letters on the shifter light up.

[3400-95-Modified]

just pull your cluster out and change the bulbs.

[PCGUY112887]

Well I just checked, the TEMP light comes on fine when I turn the key.

Any other ideas on what a LAMP FAULT could be? I mean there are only 3 wires on that sensor, if any of them wasn't connected correctly something wouldn't work.

EDIT - OK I got #'s now. Took FOREVER to get these, Powrtuner constantly crashes when I try to read DTC's, or it just tells me none are set when the SES light is on.

DTC 1336 Crankshaft Position [CKP] System Variation Not Learned

DTC 1406 Exhaust Gas Reciculation [EGR] Position Sensor Performance

DTC 1673 Engine Coolant Temperature Lamp Control Circuit

I could have swore before it said lamp fault, not a circuit DTC.

I get the first 2, any ideas on the last one? I know that connection has been solider back together, and the sensor machined to fit in, but if I'm not getting voltage errors and the sensor reads fine and the lamp comes on fine in the dash I don't see why I would get that DTC.

[wasas9]

hooray for obd I and its simplicities

[PCGUY112887]

My GM book does not list this DTC... maybe since it's for a 96, but the closest thing it has is the same DTC but for the oil level sensor. First thing it wants you to check is a prong going into the PCM for voltage.

Maybe I COULD be seeing something related to swapping this PCM in that my GP is looking for but whatever car your OBD2 stuff came out of 3400 ISN'T looking for? Long shot yes but I really can not believe that there could be anything wrong with the wires or sensor.

[IsaacHayes]

How is your oil level sensor wires BTW? Is it disconnected, wires spliced, or what? It could be the pin out for the van and GP are different, and it's the oil level switch that's actually doing it?

EDIT: Sounds like its' the wires going to the TEMP light circuit. Makes no sense if it comes on with the key in the ON position though... Hmmm I don't get it.

[3400-95-Modified]

1406 can be shut off, as noted before since you dont have a egr there at all...

1336 has me confused... I thought only 98+ ecms had crank position learning...

Try this, Open the scan tool click connect go to realtime options at top of it and click on crankcase relearn, follow procedure, when it says to rev the motor the screen should change and do something... if it doesnt then your car doesnt support this feature... I'll be suprised if it does since mine didnt throw that code, and I didnt think its supported.

The temp light... you may be able to shut that code off too if you get a dash reading and a temp reading in the ECM when using the scan tool.

And for the DTC lockups... right after a flash you need to do a DTC clear, then start the car and check for codes, for some reason after a flash on a 97 it will always throw a DTC that can't be checked. And if you can't read the codes, just clear the light and see if they come back and try to read again.

My oil level sensor wire is unplugged and every once and a while I get a light on my dash, it doesn't affect anything else that I know of... I do know the ECM reads that but I'm not sure why.

[Superdave]

hooray for obd I and its simplicities

x2


like 3 things to change to disable the EGR and EVAP..


i don't even have an EGR port on my plenum anymore.. the plug is burried back in the wire loom somewhere.

[3400-95-Modified]

There isnt much you need to change in OBDII either... shut off a code, and then crank up the enable temp... Same for evap, bump duty cycle down all the way and shut off the codes.

Its simple if you know what your doing for both.

[PCGUY112887]

My oil level sensor is just hanging there, I haven't spliced it together yet.

I will try the crankcase learn, just gotta get rid of other DTC's first before it will let me do it.

I also do clear the DTC's after every flash (I remember reading it before). However it never seems to help. Even when DTC's are set, light is on, and I can't read DTC's due to a crash, if I try to clear them it says it clears them but the light does not go away.

Issac, the light only comes on for a moment when I turn the key ON, like all other lights... that is how I know the bulb is OK.

[3400-95-Modified]

Shut the codes off since there is no reason for them, you cant get rid of them... you need to turn them off.

[PCGUY112887]

OK, disabled the codes and did a CASE learn. Engine went to 5k RPM's. It said it learned it. I cleared the code, and it didn't come back.

Now for a VE tune eh? fun fun. Any tips? Unplugging my MAF and scanning while driving for a bit and sticking my scan into an excel file to calculate changes just doesn't seem like it would work that well When I read the tuner guide, it tells to unplug MAF, change copy good fuel spark tables to bad fuel spark tables, etc. Then right under it, it says "Another way to tune VE" and it says that you don't have to do all of that, and it explains VE, but doesn't tell me anymore about how to go about tuning it!

Any idea as to why it is hard to start? I mean it starts fine, but if I don't touch the gas a bit the moment I start it, it dies. Starts up like normal, then it falls down to about 500rpm's and dies really fast. No codes or anything. If I tap the gas as soon as it starts to run (going to like 1500 RPM's), then it drops back down to idle fine and stays there.

Also KR... I scanned for maybe 15mins while driving around at various throttles, maxing out at probably around 50%, however I have 0 KR, all over, none at all. I mean no KR is good, but it seems like I should see at least some since it's so out of tune? I thought even stock cars get some KR, or is that mainly at WOT?

Sorry for asking so much about the tuning portion, but everything I read goes against the last thing I read... either that or it's meant for a boosted 3800!