with four 90* bends, you'd be at -20% flow... wow.
page 62 of maximum boost if anyone wants proof
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3500 intake swap and 75MM TB.
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Being an author of a turbocharging book I trust that calculation... Some say it was 30%, but that sounds awfully steep to me. My only other issue is where the cone filter ends up... I don't want it in a spot in the bumper where there is negative air pressure because then never mind just the bend losses... now your working harder to even find air.Originally posted by robertisaar View Postaccording to corky bell, every 90* of turning loses 1% of the flow.... more with sharper bends, but that start stacking up quickly....
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according to corky bell, every 90* of turning loses 1% of the flow.... more with sharper bends, but that start stacking up quickly....
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This is where the subject is touchy... If your forced induction, by all means put your filter away from any heat and get as cold of air as possible... you have a tool to help you pull that air in... Now if you compare a WAI to a CAI at a dragstrip on a N/A motor, the 4-5 bends necessary to produce a CAI WILL cause a restriction on that application, and at the strip my CAI never sucked in colder air when in motion... the sitting at the line and in the staging lanes would heat soak the entire bumper area so all the air coming in was registering high, CAI or not, so rather than get hot air AND make the motor have to suck it up like a hoover, I just eliminated the bends and left it with a WAI.Originally posted by AaronGTR View PostThat depends on how hot your engine bay is too and how much air circulation you have. I guarantee you my CAI pulls in colder air than a WAI no matter how fast I'm going. My engine bay is very tight and VERY hot. I also have a non-intercooled blower so getting the coldest possilbe air at all times is vital for my outlet temps. With a 3.5" filter and pipe feeding into an LS1 MAF then through 3" pipe to a 65mm TB, I also highly doubt the CAI is any kind of air restriction. Especially compared to the stock airbox, and not with my blower sucking air through it.
Eric's proven it, his car runs better with his WAI than it did with his CAI and he saw a change on his wideband after his first few runs.
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I can import them into windows movie maker just fine, previews work but once on the timeline they don't show any video, just sound.Originally posted by robertisaar View PostWAY off topic, but avidemux will usually convert anything you can throw at it...
I need to edit the clips, there is about 20 minutes of video that needs to be cut down to 2 minutes.
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Broken/missing codecs
Dave, try downloading this...
Free-CODECS.COM, or just CODECS.COM - Download the latest codecs and tools, for free - daily updated!
It's mostly for AVI files but seems to work with other formats. You don't have to install it,,, just unzip to a folder and run it from there. When you open a media file with GSpot it will try to render all the required codecs and tell you if they are present/working... Freecodecs.com is a good source of info/codecs.....
Good luck!!!
Troubleshooting codecs CAN be FUNNNNNN!!!!
Sorry about being off-topic..
Tom...
There are other Codec Utilities out there...
PS: If you are NOT running Windows,,,, I DON'T KNOW!!
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WAY off topic, but avidemux will usually convert anything you can throw at it...
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i have true duals.. it's no big deal. Sounds like crap without an X pipe though.
If i could figure out my codec issue i've got some new videos of mine with the X pipe that i'll eventually upload.
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that is probably the simplest way to make a true dual setup on a FWD...
how different do you mean? ricer/cammed BBC/lawn mower/weed eater?
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TPS came from the stock 3400 TB. The IAC I thought would fit and it didn't. Bolt holes were farther apart and the IAC throw was deeper, so that was the stock Aurora IAC. My cold air system will hopefully be routed through my replica W-30 hood scoops I'm going to attempt to fabricate this winter. For now, breathing through the fender.
BTW, I pulled a 5 year old tantrum today. I jumped up and down, I screamed, I cried, I got my way! Regardless of the power-loss, which I'm still looking into, I hacked my cross-over pipe, made one side a block off plate, the other side got stepped up to 2.5" pipe. The front manifold now dumps its exhaust out the side of the car, in front of the drivers side, front wheel. And the back manifold dumps it's exhaust behind the front passenger wheel. But wow it sounds tons different!
I know I'm a sick minded individual, I demanded dual exhaust! Here is your opening to ridicule me, I give full permission, I stand ready to spout, "thank you sir, may I have another!?" :P
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On the subject of Ram Air, when I go above 110 mph my AEM wdieband bottoms out at 10.0 :1. I determined it to be airflow related. I took the tube off and it doesn't do it above 120 mph. I have all the tables in the pcm fixed, all the torque and speed limits off. My only guess is that I'm creating enough positive pressure to put either the MAF or the MAP off of their respective tables. Tire issues and 4th slipping at WOT are keeping me from getting a datalog.
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That depends on how hot your engine bay is too and how much air circulation you have. I guarantee you my CAI pulls in colder air than a WAI no matter how fast I'm going. My engine bay is very tight and VERY hot. I also have a non-intercooled blower so getting the coldest possilbe air at all times is vital for my outlet temps. With a 3.5" filter and pipe feeding into an LS1 MAF then through 3" pipe to a 65mm TB, I also highly doubt the CAI is any kind of air restriction. Especially compared to the stock airbox, and not with my blower sucking air through it.Originally posted by asylummotorsports View PostI'm going to agree that for daily driving a CAI is definately better than the stock air box.
I never meant to suggest otherwise.
However on a WOT/Race application you are going to have a difficult time convincing me they are worth the powder to blow them to hell!
Great big long straw is about all it is.
My wideband numbers dropped (richened) measurably with the CAI in several locations over the straight shot 8" WAI. Simply means it's getting LESS air.
Anyway back on topic, I think a 75mm TB is way overkill for a NA 3500. You're never going to use that much air, unless you plan on boosting it later. Out of curiousity, what did you do for TPS and IAC with that TB?
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I'm going to agree that for daily driving a CAI is definately better than the stock air box.
I never meant to suggest otherwise.
However on a WOT/Race application you are going to have a difficult time convincing me they are worth the powder to blow them to hell!
Great big long straw is about all it is.
My wideband numbers dropped (richened) measurably with the CAI in several locations over the straight shot 8" WAI. Simply means it's getting LESS air.
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I still argue that a CAI is worth it if you drive any at all in the city. Sure at highway speeds air does cool down the engine bay. In town though, 30mph stop and go my car turns gutless with a WAI. Put back in my modded stock air box and it's got throttle response and power...
I'll see if the CAI I'll be building when I get time will respond like my modded stock air box or the WAI. I'm sure it's the heat not the magical cone filter that makes the difference. My stock air box is opened up a lot and has a K&N drop in FYI. From my data logs with TunerPro it shows that a WAI is well over 100F. Modded air box and it stays only about 10* above ambient.Last edited by IsaacHayes; 08-23-2009, 02:20 PM.
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