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  • AaronGTR
    replied
    Originally posted by Superdave View Post
    typically the NB output from a wideband will have the same problem that the bosch sensors do.. they react too quickly. You'll notice in the datalogs that the values are all over the place.

    It's best to run a GM sensor, stock 3x00 4 wire sensors give a nice clean output that the OBD1 computer seems to like.


    i ran my car on the NB out from my WMS controller, always had problems until i switched to a stock 3500 4 wire.

    There is an option for the output on the LM-2 to change the frequency of the update speed. You can slow it down and it will average the readings it takes in between to come up with what it sends to the pcm. I really think the issue here is in the scale range, ie having the voltage range setup on the output to match the range and AFR that the stock narrow band was outputting. Since I couldn't program the outputs on my LM-2 I was having problems. My unit seemed to take a crap on me. It wouldn't update the firmware and then it got stuck on the boot mode screen and wouldn't go off. It's currently back at innovate in CA getting fixed. Waiting to hear back from them.

    What I really need is something showing what AFR the mv readings on my stock sensor equals, or at least what the min and max are equal too. Then I could setup my output properly and give it another try. If I can't get it to work maybe I'll try a PLX.

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  • Superdave
    replied
    haha, sweet.

    Leave a comment:


  • asylummotorsports
    replied
    Well the stupid thing appears to be fixed.

    The 3500 crank trigger was almost literally falling off the damn thing.

    Silliest thing, it started and ran fine under load, (How I DON'T KNOW!!).

    Locktite FTMFW!!

    Leave a comment:


  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    I have the caps in line on my DHP unit when I was doing the A/D thing to get a reading... now I'm direct com input to my laptop.

    I'll have to try my PLX on my OBDII setup to see how it goes. I have the PLX SM-AFR with a gauge, and an added on com port output.

    Leave a comment:


  • 3400beretta
    replied
    I've heard this before about different brands of WB controllers. However, I have never had a problem with mine and now Erics (we both have the same unit - PLX devices M-300). I have watched the input while datalogging and it matches the wideband PERFECTLY. They included some small tantalum capacitors that you are supposed to install right at the ecm to get rid of any noise but I've never used them either.

    Leave a comment:


  • Superdave
    replied
    typically the NB output from a wideband will have the same problem that the bosch sensors do.. they react too quickly. You'll notice in the datalogs that the values are all over the place.

    It's best to run a GM sensor, stock 3x00 4 wire sensors give a nice clean output that the OBD1 computer seems to like.


    i ran my car on the NB out from my WMS controller, always had problems until i switched to a stock 3500 4 wire.

    Leave a comment:


  • robertisaar
    replied
    Originally posted by AaronGTR View Post
    It's probably from the 11.4:1 AFR at WOT.
    that WILL do it...excessively retarded timing will also shorten the lifespan.

    Leave a comment:


  • AaronGTR
    replied
    Originally posted by 3400beretta View Post
    The wideband has a narrowband output.

    And Eric, the more I think about it, the car may have benefited from running a colder plug, so it infact may be slower!
    Which wideband is it then? I have an innovate LM-2 which has a narrow band output, but I can't get it to run my car properly. I'd really like to figure it out because the wideband seems to keep reading correctly for a long time but my narrow bands are getting trashed within 6 months and I'm tired of constantly buying new ones. It's probably from the 11.4:1 AFR at WOT.

    Leave a comment:


  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Colder Iridium's are hard to find going off the stock numbering scheme... If you think/know a 3500 is a hotter plug, then go with the 3100's those are the 41-101's... the 3500's are the 105's I'm not saying the higher the number the hotter it is, since even AC Delco says that's not true, but if you think the 3500 stock plugs are hotter then just go to the 3100/3400 iridium.

    I think my TR6's will be one range colder and they are the copper core, V tip plug... I guess they work well with what I'm going to be doing, since I've been told to stay away from iridium's with the nitrous.

    Leave a comment:


  • asylummotorsports
    replied
    When the two guys I KNOW, know what they are talking about say leave it alone, that is good enough for me! LOL!

    Leave a comment:


  • Superdave
    replied
    I haven't had any problems with stock iridiums, i'd leave them alone until you know for sure if they've changed anything.

    Leave a comment:


  • asylummotorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by Mars View Post
    Nice to see you got her going. See you on the weekend ?
    Weather looks iffy for Saturday but I'm planning on going Sunday, yes!

    Haven't been to a CSCS yet this year.
    Last edited by asylummotorsports; 09-09-2009, 08:42 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 3400beretta
    replied
    I don't know the part numbers on the iridium plugs. Try what you've got first, its only 1 heat range, if anything. And yeah, I would do an idle re-learn.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mars
    replied
    Nice to see you got her going. See you on the weekend ?

    Leave a comment:


  • asylummotorsports
    replied
    Rodney?

    Do you think I should disconnect the battery and let it do a re-learn while I have it out tomorrow?

    And give me a cold Irridium part number. I'll get them tomorrow!
    Last edited by asylummotorsports; 09-08-2009, 08:53 PM.

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