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high compression setup
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Why do you think you need to cut reliefs for your valves? Or are you wanting to do that to lower compression??? Dave is the one who needs to cut reliefs due to his long duration...
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well even if it required using a junk head i still got the heads off my old 3400 and the pistons are currently mounted in that block so none of this would get done on the engine in the car, just swap pistons when im done cutting them.
what im thinking would work right. the valves are in the same place, and i could build a setup out of sheet metal or something the same thickness of the headgasket ill be using to do this.
pretty good writeup from LS1tech. the guy seems like he did his homework on that.
got any links for the stick on types. i found the lindy tools site and its $75 for the cutter and 25 for the guide rod.
Last edited by geldartb; 10-30-2009, 04:33 PM.
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well that is that style. and the valve spins in the guide anyway. just use some lubricant and i do not think it would be a big deal. if you use the correct blades, they stick to the valve and do not mess anything else up.
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Well, as that thread shows, spinning a bit/valve could mess up the valve guides, and also if you look at the thread he had to grind the hell out of the valve seats so the cutters would sit right.
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Gotta use a junk head and modify it to work properly.
Generation III Internal Engine - Piston Flycutting in engine / car - KEYWORDS added: piston flycutting flycut notch notching PTV clearance MS4 PRC stg. 2.5 5.3l Texas Speed Lindy Tool DIY instructions tutorial The idea here it to cut reliefs into the piston to obtain adaquate piston to valve (PTV) clearance. The tools...
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there are companies that sell the stick on blades and there are ones that sell the modified valves.
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i can honestly say i've never seen flycutters in place of valves until today...
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those are really popular to fly cut with. they work reasonably well. just set the depth with your drill and you are golden.
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flycutting is the best way to get the clearance he needs without too much more monkeying around....
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Well, it will give me a ball park #.... it's all relative. I plan to see what the old 3100 has too right before I pull it out.
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this is supposing you have 100% ring seal? i would not trust any figure like that. the only thing i have seen that is nearly 100% accurate is this
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Fly Cut? Bartle Doo.
Anyway, I'll do a compression check on my motor once it gets put in come spring time, and see what my cranking pressure is. That will tell me how close those DCR calcs are. Unless I can find a spare starter and battery to crank it over while it's on the stand.. By hand you only get to 70psi because you can't spin it fast enough... The calcs say 10.75 dynamic with 230psi cranking pressure with my cam.
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