LX9 With WOT Tech 'Street' Cam

[jmgtp]

A few simple questions for the Gurus:

The WOT-Tech store says stock pushrods can be used but longer ones are recommended. If I use the stock ones what is the downside? Increased valvetrain wear and tear? Or just not 100% optimal performance?

Other than the cam what are the hidden costs? I already have the lower intake on up gaskets so don't count them. I imagine I will need to replace the timing cover gasket and oil pan gasket but those are cheap. What else?

Can I reuse the stock timing set? Engine has 52k so I'd think that isn't a problem.
Can I reuse the stock lifters on the new cam?

The Street Cam is described as a better performer while retaining a smooth idle and increase efficiency. This all sounds great for a DD. Cost is the name of the game though, will the performace increase be significant and justify the cost? Any guesses at peak #s and under the curve #s? Will it take a hit to the low end? Keep in mind the engine will be otherwise mostly stock. I plan to 'open' up the plenum, use a 63-65mm tb, retain the 'shorty' exhaust manifolds, and reuse my existing 2.5" catback w/ hi flow. Of course a tune as well.

Thanks!

edit: I'm also assuming I can reuse stock springs and rockers with this cam. I know it won't reach its full potential this the factory hardware but this isn't an all out build but rather a sprucing up of the daily driver. With that in mind is this feasible? Basically my goal is to not spend a lot and that mentality usually doesn't mix well with performance. I'd like to be able to throw the cam in and retain the rest of the stock valvetrain - I know I won't reap the full benefits of the cam that way and that is OK. What is NOT OK is if doing this sacrifices the reliability or longevity of the valvetrain, if that is the case I'll probably stick with the stock cam.

[geldartb]

i didnt even take the oil pan off when i put my cam in so you dont need the added time and money unless you touching the bottom end.

the 3500 UIM is already 65mm so you dont need to open that up. just gasket match/port the 6 little runners.

[jmgtp]

Thanks for the reply.

By open up I did mean gasket match the runners.

Good to know I don't need the oil pan gasket. The timing cover gasket is only around $25 I believe (if it is identical to the 3400 gasket).

Really looking for answers on what kind of gains I can expect and if reusing the rest of the stock valvetrain hardware will be detrimental in any way.

[IsaacHayes]

Going with a 99 and older timing set (gears, chain, guide) is recommended as they are beefier. Especially with a big cam... Also you need springs that can handle the lift etc of the cam. Custom pushrods are needed depending on the grind. For that one stock can be used since it's not a HUGE change from stock. You will lack some preload and thus lift I'm guessing if they are not exactly long enough.

However, that cam looks to be very mild. Bottom end won't be affected I'd say. Not enough to notice.. That won't even sound cammed.

Timing cover gasket is CHEAP. You can use one from any 3x00... It's just paper. $6 for the crank seal. TC gasket I think is even cheaper...

Stock spring may be able to be used, don't know. I'd ask Ben. Not sure on the gains. But it looks mild enough that it probably won't wear out chains or anything like some of the big lift cams do with stiff springs..

[geldartb]

5 bucks plus shipping from rock auto for the timing cover gasket TCS45828 plus you can find one of the discount codes and get 5% more off.

Thanks for the reply.

By open up I did mean gasket match the runners.

Good to know I don't need the oil pan gasket. The timing cover gasket is only around $25 I believe (if it is identical to the 3400 gasket).

Really looking for answers on what kind of gains I can expect and if reusing the rest of the stock valvetrain hardware will be detrimental in any way.

ok yeah there isnt much material to remove and its wicked easy to do on the 3500 uim vs the 3400 uim where you got to do the whole runner.
i did mine yesterday and between that an screwing with the lawnmower/mowing the leaves and then going through my mini chopper. i was down there for prob 3 1/2hrs but id say maybe an hour or a little more to open up the runners.

you should honestly be fine with that cam and stock stuff but id ask ben just to be double sure, dont wanna send you in the wrong direction.

[AaronGTR]

Even with 52k miles, you'll want to replace at least the stock timing chain but not necessarily the gears. I had less than that on mine when I did the cam and the stock chain was already stretched out a good bit, just using a stock cam and LS1 springs which are barely stiffer than stock.

If you are doing any kind of cam at all, stock valve springs are not enough. They are weak even in stock form and can float at high rpm. I'd go with LS6 springs if your lift isn't going to be very high since they are cheaper than comp springs. You really should go with the Beefier older timing set as well if you are getting a cam and stiffer springs since it will last longer. You can get the chain and the sprockets all in one set. Pushrods, I believe if the cam you are using has high enough lift to require the base circle being lower than stock (so the lobes will fit through the cam bearings) then not using longer pushrods will lose you some preload on the lifters and lose some effective final lift. You'll have to ask Ben about the base circle height of the cam you intend to use.

[19Cutlass94]

Ive got that cam in my 3400. I bought the LS6 springs which you will need, youll also need the LS6 spring seats which need to be machined, or drilled to fit. I bought the custum length pushrods for it as well. Everything else like timing chains and such I kept the stockers in there.

[asylummotorsports]

If you have any excuse whatsoever to see a timing chain, change it!

The gears maybe not so much, but how badly do you want to do it again?

Buy the pre '99 chain set up FROM GM!

10166350 cam sprocket

14074400 crank sprocket

10166352 chain

10166353 dampner

The LS6 springs are too expensive given the rest of the crap you have to do and buy to make them work.

Just use the 28986 springs and never worry about them again.

Pushrods on that cam are up to you. Again, do you want to do it right or cheap?

Save your pennies then DO IT RIGHT!

My .02

[jmgtp]

Again, do you want to do it right or cheap?

Well, I wanted to do it right FOR cheap. I made this thread to find out if that was possible... looks like it isn't! I don't want to invest that much into the performance of this engine. It is going to be a DD not a performance build. I'd end up spending more on the valvetrain than I did on the whole engine so it doesn't make sense. I'm going to open up the runners on the plenum and call it a day in regards to performance. It should still be a good performer with the 5 speed.

[3400-95-Modified]

Well, I wanted to do it right FOR cheap.

When it comes to a valve train, that is not a possible option. Especially since you want it to be a Daily Driver. Daily cars see more abuse than a track car some times because they are required to run perfectly EVERY DAY.

I put 15k on a daily setup with a Milzy cam, and I was very surprised to see I killed a set of cam bearings, the bronze oil pump gear, and I also stretched a timing chain pretty bad. That was with a set of LS6 springs too, and I will also say just go with the 986 springs, you'll spend about the same because now you wont need any special seats to make them work, or seals.

I've done another 15k on this setup and I killed an aftermarket POS timing set, and I don't know how my latest set of cam bearings are holding up now that I had a more aggressive cam, but slightly easier spring. I'll let you know after this winter