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2001 3.4l cracks in head deck

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  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    Or a whole engine may be cheaper..........

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  • Weatheralls Auto
    replied
    Another block may be cheaper than a new set of quality head gaskets and intake gaskets

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  • AaronGTR
    replied
    ^ I agree. With the head bolt putting stress right there, you don't know what it's actually doing when it's torqued and hot. I wouldn't use it as is. If the cracks aren't too deep you may be able to get it welded and re-surfaced, and it may be good enough for daily driving use, but certainly wouldn't trust it with any extra HP. It's in an iffy area... I think I'd just be getting a new block or entire engine. Maybe a low miles donor from a junkyard car.

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    That looks really nasty. And from the way the light reflects off of it, it looks like the block has deformed some as well. I would take it out and replace it or have it welded/resurfaced but would prefer it be replaced if it were me

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  • bszopi
    replied
    Pics...



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  • Weatheralls Auto
    replied
    I looked at gallery.
    Sorry, thats why I say to replace block.
    A lot of torque will be a he one spot due to the head bolt.

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  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    ewww just looked at the pics. Who knows maybe it froze but ran fine after that?? Strange I guess over heating could do that too, I've never really looked at an overheated block. Well do let us know what happens!

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  • rooster5333
    replied
    aww man dont jinx me. so far, you are the only "dont chance it" i had. everyone else just slaps me on the back and says, "dont worry, be happy". Did you look at the pics in photo gallery? I am so praying this works!! cant really afford to replace and rebuild it now. blew this one on 12/1, broke cam in 97 m/c 3100 on 12/29. dont need more bad luck. if it does leak, i have a roll of 100 mph mcgyver tape, and a tube of blue glue that will surely fix it!

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  • Weatheralls Auto
    replied
    I gotta say, if it was me, I woud be replacing the Block.
    The head bolt goes right there, may not torque correctly, crack more and cause a leak in/out combustion and coolant.
    Not much farther to go, get a nice clean fresh block in there.

    Leave a comment:


  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    My 220,000+ mile 3100 just won't die. I had it close to overheating once when the trans cooler pushed trans oil into the cooling system, replaced several LIMGaskets, but it's a survivor. And it see's WOT and constant high RPMs daily. I hope with all that work you put into it, it keeps on going. A whole new engine could have been cheaper if things don't work out...

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  • rooster5333
    replied
    I'm not knocking the dealer completely. In fact, the dealer saved me a little bit. The Oreally??? auto parts I frequent only had a head kit with plastic lim gaskets. The kit had valve guides and seals, throttle body gasket and various orings, and tstat seal all of which i didnt need, for $170. I opted for the fel pro intake kit w/metal gasket. I needed ex gaskets and they wanted 20 ea. 17 at dealer. Cant never find fuel rail orings at parts place. Ive had dealers give me them. Got 1 heluav deal on a new crate 3100 for a 94 baretta, few yrs back. Brand new, lim, front cover, valve covers, oil pump and pan, plus 3yr 50k mi wnty. All for $300 more than long blk reman at AZ. It broke down 18 mo later, and they towed it and fixed it for free!!! But when they do get you, they dont kiss you first!

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Got nessie? LOL

    Yeah the typical OEM supplier will rape you. I actually found a local Advance that has a bunch of guys running STI's, EVO's and S/C Mustangs (even a procharged Firebird LSx). I hate the fact that most stores hire cashier's anymore and don't know squat about cars, but hese guys are in to it.

    Nothing worse than going to order valve springs and they look under "suspension" ROFL

    Leave a comment:


  • rooster5333
    replied
    eng crack pics

    If anyone is interested, I have uploaded a few pics of the cracks in the deck of my 3.4. Go to photo gallery, and search "eng cracks". The pics are of the front bank. The cracks are between cyl 2&4 in the water passage. The heads are redone. Looks really nice. Decided to pop for the new head bolts, like EVERYONE said. Dealer said $8.50 ea! YIKES!! Got whole set for $37 at O'reilly. Keep finding stuff to fix, or clean, while it's tore down. But should be done this w/e. The heater hose octopus needs to be dealt with. Again, the dealership tried to get me to help bail gm out. Close to $500 for the deal. TRIPLE YIKES!!! Alot of stuff buried behind there in a minivan. Various parts, with leaks. Bugs. Bigfoot. Jimmy Hoffa. The keys to a womans heart. blah blah....

    Leave a comment:


  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    If the block is out, you could have the cracks welded and the deck resurfaced. If it isn't out, you aren't too far from getting it out at that point. A 3400 block with heads and LIM installed WILL fit out the top of a minivan. How do I know? Rebuild on a 98 Trans Sport after a huge LIM gasket failure and stuff looked good to the naked eye (but it wasn't good but is fine now).

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  • rooster5333
    replied
    Yes it overheated, but not badly. Enough to mess up the head gasket. But only the front head and on the drive belt end, next to the water pump housing. These mysterious cracks are on both banks. And!!! in the same relative spot. Heat most likely caused these cracks, but they were obviously there for a loooonngg time. And not causing a problem, i.e. no leaks or other issues. The gasket blew away and apart from these cracks. I have discovered that this issue is an unknown problem, and I guess I will just go ahead and reuse the block as is. Once I get it going, I will find out if it will work. I will also report back about my success or more likely my failure with this issue. The heads are in the shop now for a complete rebuild. When they are done, I will reassemble and cross my fingers. I hope you all will cross yours for me also. MANY THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR RESPONSES!!

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