Extreme Camaro hybrid build plus...

[02GT_Skyhigh]

Who cant start reading this, and not stop. Amazing job with the install.
I bet its nice having the customer know exactly what he wants out of it!

[85erbirdie]

my computer is sticky now thanks coming together bueatifully cant wait to get enough funds to do this to my 85 bird

[60dgrzbelow0]

John... Wondrous Work on this F-Body... Just a beautiful attention to so much detail. I was wondering why you left the transmission off when you lowered the body over the new high performance motor... did you do it this way because you have the lift now? (Which I would gladly kill to have right now...} When I do my son's soon...It'll be taking place in my fully re-organized oversized two car garage now that I'm building some wood shelving to get all the clutter picked up...But I'm a little concerned as to whether or not the 4 Ton Lift will touch the overhead garage door and all that hardware , even with the hood removed. I'll be following your original removal technique, albeit with some safety additions you already know about. I'm thinking that in order to avoid trying to bolt the tranny on afterwards...it might be better to bolt the engine and transmission together while it sits of the K-Member support assembly stand. Your thoughts and suggestions are always appreciated!

My God!... I wonder what is going to happen when you and Ben get together and get to work down there... God help anybody driving a V8 that F*cks with you guys!

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/GM34LENGINESWAP/

[ForcedFirebird]

Trans wasn't in, only because we were lacking the case of B&M "Trick Shift" fluid. The trans is a PerformaBuilt level 2 with a billet 2800 stall. It's not that bad putting in a trans without pulling the entire subframe.

Thanks for all the compliments, guys, we were working on it just yesterday and re-positioned the passenger seat for a little more comfort as the Vette has a flat floor pan and the Camaro has all the lumps from the cat etc.

As soon as we wrap up this 2002 BMW 530i, the Maro is coming back in the shop to be wrapped up. Should be running in a cple weeks, then it's off to the paint booth...

[bob442]

I'm a little concerned as to whether or not the 4 Ton Lift will touch the overhead garage door and all that hardware , even with the hood removed. I'll be following your original removal technique, albeit with some safety additions you already know about. I'm thinking that in order to avoid trying to bolt the tranny on afterwards...it might be better to bolt the engine and transmission together while it sits of the K-Member support assembly stand. Your thoughts and suggestions are always appreciated?

if you support the drive train a foot off the ground even at most, and lift the car straight up you should be good, i've seen guy drop the whole subframe and trans right on the ground then lift up the car with a cherry picker at the front, and just drag everything out.

Bob

[ForcedFirebird]

if you support the drive train a foot off the ground even at most, and lift the car straight up you should be good, i've seen guy drop the whole subframe and trans right on the ground then lift up the car with a cherry picker at the front, and just drag everything out.

Bob

Look back at the pics

[bob442]

You sneaky snake, you must have added those pictures

[tkoforpresident]

It's just so epic.

Seeing this thread makes me realize how superfluous all my modding is =(



Maybe one day...

[60dgrzbelow0]

if you support the drive train a foot off the ground even at most, and lift the car straight up you should be good, i've seen guy drop the whole subframe and trans right on the ground then lift up the car with a cherry picker at the front, and just drag everything out.

Bob

John's original work on dropping the K-Member prompted me to design and build this little heavy duty roll-around tray to catch the engine and transmission as a single unit and just as you suggest, Bob ... when it all seems unbolted and clear... I'll simply tug the car in the air a little at a time until the tray can be easily manoeuvred from underneath. I know its a bit over engineered... but I wasn't taking any chances. I wanted something long enough...strong enough and agile enough to make the engine removal and later re-alignment a breeze... and not risk the life and limb of anyone, too.

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/GM34LENGINESWAP/

And while this post involves a 4th Gen F-Body Lt-1 - LS-1 EOKM (Engine On K- Member) pulll from the bottom... this fellow has also done a fair job at documenting the procedures in photos and with good text for his "Step-By-Step". You know how it is...when you do something as rare and involved as this... it never hurts to have as many images and ideas as possible:

http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

And here is yet another good "How-To" for the same F-Body circumstances with even more details on what connections and cables will need to be removed prior to the "Engine Drop"

http://www.myls1.com/myls1-com-install-guides/1808.htm

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/857641-how-remove-engine-bottom-ls1-fbody.html

[bob442]

i've seen those contraptions before. My project has the rad craddle cut out at the moment lol. i'll have to figure something out for when i finish my 4thgen witha ls3 and a t10

Bob

[ForcedFirebird]

I'm old school and the king of improvisation. $12 furniture dolly from Harbor Freight will hold 1000lbs, plenty heavy-duty enough for the engine and trans - rolled it right into the garage

[pocket-rocket]

$12 furniture dolly from Harbor Freight will hold 1000lbs, plenty heavy-duty enough for the engine and trans.

Nice... Gives me ideas of getting some instead of the ones specifically made for cars. Does anyone know the price of the car ones off the top of their head?

[60dgrzbelow0]

No Doubt...You can be very a "Edgy" and aggressive guy John... Something we all might think makes you the best on the cutting edge front of "Mecking"... You have no idea how well my prayers were answered when you swapped those stacks of bricks in your driveway for a professional lift so I no longer have to worry about you working under that F-Body so precariously perched out there...

But... Please know that there is a "Part Two" and a method to my madness in designing and building such a heavy contraption to basket catch that motor and transmission. The reason I designed it that way was so that once I figure out how to block set the motor and tranny in place while they rest on the steel cradle... I can use something like this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-ton-pallet-jack-39939.html

... to later elevate the new motor into position with a lot more ease by coming up from the bottom with much more control...as opposed to trying to wrangle the descent of the heavy and cumbersome car back over the motor. Since I do not have "The Gift of the Lift"... I'm thinking about slipping something like this under the whole she-bang and lift the entire motor and cradle up into the proper position to re-bolt up the K-Member and contents...

[pocket-rocket]

Those pallet jacks only go up about 6 inches, Bob. I would go with something like this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/7000-lb-symmetric-floorplate-two-post-vehicle-lift-68482.html

After all, you can't beat the price

[60dgrzbelow0]

Those pallet jacks only go up about 6 inches, Bob. I would go with something like this...

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/7000-lb-symmetric-floorplate-two-post-vehicle-lift-68482.html

After all, you can't beat the price

Pocket... You are KILLING ME MAN!!! ... I don't have such deep "Pockets"...