3400 N/A Monte Build Thread

[bob442]

Thanks everyone! needless to say everything that i havent welded up will be tig welded up and some time will be taken to grind down all the welds and make it purdy.
Next i have to get 3 pieces of pipe stretched to fit into the cross over section so they can be separated, and then i have enough scrap material to try making a parallel merg collector 3 times to get it right lol

[bob442]

Been really busy lately with multiple projects, finally got my truck somewhat together

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/023.jpg

and i got some purdy parts 2 weeks ago

the headers are about 80% done, there all welded up and ground down, some were beed blasted to show flawes


and heres the plan to separate the headers over the trans tunnel

[mfuller]

Pretty H-beam rods. Are you using 3400 or 3500 heads? Decided on a cam yet?
I just went with Ben's "Race" NA cam.
Very nice work on the timing cover too.

[bob442]

Thanks, I'm using 3400 heads and porting them. believe it or not i'm trying to build this on a budget. Building my own headers and porting myself and making my own TB adaptor saved about $1200. I'm going with Ben's strip cam and #28 injectors.

[bob442]

finally got my trans done and ready to put in, fully rebuilt with redline clutchs, valve body upgrades, HD diff, final drive of 3.29:1 for the stock 3.05:1, 2400 stall from the stock 2100, and a bit of glitter

[mfuller]

Did you get a 245mm converter? Or did your car come saddled with the 258mm converter like L67/L32 cars?

[bob442]

its the 245mm, the 258 were l67/l32 cars only
the trans is in, the contrast is pretty different but it will look nice once i get everything else that i got in gold is in

[bob442]

So, i got all my parts back from the machine shop, custom rods, bearings, heads all ported and machined, you name it. how ever i seem to have lost all of my dowels for the cylinder heads, some how, and i need to get a frost plug for the rear which is another problem, it measures 34mm but they only have 35mm, so i got a rubber squish style, what do you guys think of those? and does anyone have an idea of where i could get the cylinder head dowels from aside piston ring? they are a discontinued part. i think i might have to go to the wrecker and rip off some heads
If anyone has any assembally tips i'm all ears, i got plasic gauge to check all the bottom end bearings, and i got cheap oil with a break in aditive. thats all i could find in the city so i dont know if it will work out.
Real updates hopfully this weekend with pics!

[pocket-rocket]

I wouldn't trust a rubber core plug in an engine that I'm putting all that money into.

Rock auto has them made by Dorman:

DORMAN Part # 555104 More Information About this Part {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Nominal Dia.: 34.3mm; Metric Dia.; 34.30mm; Steel; Height: 0.497"; Open End Dia.: 1.359"
34.3mm Steel Cup

DORMAN Part # 565104 More Information About this Part {#5651041} Nominal Dia.: 34.3mm; Metric Dia.; 34.30mm; Brass; Height: 0.497"; Open End Dia.: 1.356"
34.3mm Brass Cup

A quick google search for "cylinder head dowel GM 3.4" turned up this site:

http://headbolts.com/chevy-v6-engine-fasteners.html

2.8/3.1 V-6 dowel pin kit head to block 4pcs $2.50
shipping is $ 6.95 there are no handling fees

Assembly tips:

Take your time, assembly isn't a race- the racing is afterward
Use a beam type torque wrench on critical stuff, like caps and heads- they are more accurate than a clicker.
Double check everything.
Be generous with assembly lube- it's cheaper than new bearings, ect. (use your head though, you don't need 1/4 bottle per bearing half)

I usually use cheap oil for initial start. After all, it's not staying in there long and you want stuff to wear in.

[bob442]

then indeed both frost plugs are junk that i had an option to. guess i'll try some dealerships tomorrow morning for the plugs and dowels. Thanks Pocket! I'm hoping to be able to drop this bad boy in come sunday

Bob

[pocket-rocket]

Good deal Just plan to spend most of tomorrow assembling. I know it can be built in a couple hours, but you have lots of money wrapped up in the powerplant for your car now, and I said it already but I'll stress it again, don't rush. That's one of the rules of the engine building books I've read lately.

[pocket-rocket]

Oh yeah, be sure to rotate the crank after tightening each or every other cap (be it main or rod) just to be sure that the rotating assembly doesn't bind. If it starts binding in the early stages of assembly and you haven't been rotating it, you're going to have to figure where it started binding at and why after disassembling most of what you did. Not to mention, you are already putting crush into bearings, then taking it apart and reassembling. At that point you would want to worry about spinning a bearing after removing it after applying the crush from assembly.

[bob442]

With out further adieu... what ive been up to for the past 3 days














































oh yeah, oops








If anyone can help with where these bolts go or what there for i would appriciate it.

[bob442]

Soooo... Who likes it nice and tight?

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/headersfinalcut009.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/headersfinalcut008.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/headersfinalcut007.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/headersfinalcut006.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/headersfinalcut005.jpg

[bob442]

and... small fitment issue's, the cross overs are not resting ontop of the trans bell housing due to the very first mock up, the flanges were on upside down, backwards and on the wrong side...simple fix tho, the mains are just tacked onto the flanges so its an easy adjustment, tomorrows another day