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so i finally had all the fluids topped up today and got it running long enough so the idle would learn and hopefully it bleed out all the air of the coolant passages. everything sounds find, theres some very small tapping noises coming from the valve train, its not a knock for sure, but its some small light taps, anyways, all went well till abuot 5 minutes of run time, the idle learnt....then it dropped and the motor started to, i'd like to say knock, but pretty much ran at 300 rpm then i killed it. worried that the motor was siezing, i dov underneith the car, and turned the crank by hand with a screw driver at the flex plate, seems a little tight, but after 1 revolution it was fairly easy. the motors not running lean and i'm basing that off of the plugs being on the black side. worring even more i drained the oil, finding that it had some extremely fine particles in it, pretty much what i would expect to seem, it was somewhat black in a sence, and one very small shaving of aluminum curled up, it couldnt have been larger than the size of a ball point pen. i'm going to cut the oil filter open tomorrow and make a final desicion from there i guess. Any inputs? I used stock size pistons and did not have the block machined as the shop told me that (ask i asked them to look) straight and with in tollerance to not need machining. It only had 90,000km and i could still see the original cross hatches, and yes i did have it honed and scuffed. so... i'm kinda worried
But.... i guess the wrest of you that dont give a hoot probably wonder how it sounds with a muffler on it...and well....It sounds almost identical to the Taiwan Fiero, with the exception of a big cam. the camera video file has an error so i guess you will all have to wait for a clip. It really does sound amazing!!!
WOW that would get me wondering as well? Never know it might just be that its a fresh motor I would hope? Keep us informed for sure and good luck hope all is well!!!
So to get this straight, is 1/4, 2/5, 3/6 the correct cylinder pairing? It looks like that's what you did in the header pics, but with the color representaiton, it looks paired differently.
Was trying to do some mock-up today, so want to make sure I get the pairings correct.
1996 Beretta, 3400/5 speed, internet Tune, FFP UDP, Billet/poly mounts, ported intake manifolds, WAI, 2.5" mandrel exhaust, Borla ProXS, Intrax, KYB, poly front end kid, welded a-arms, strut, shock and sub-frame braces.
yes that is correct. i dont think you will be able to achive connecting the primaries under the engine bay of a beretta, if anything you will end up with 5ft primaries collecting together in the tunnel of the car, which will have lost the whole point of building headers at that length. not to mention having the front primarys similar or equal length to the rears. i'm not saying this to discourage you in doing it, heck, all i heard was it wont work, it wont fit, its impractical, and it wont sound the same, but i did it, and it sounds amazing how ever, i have alot of room to work with in my W body, that has enough room for a 5.3L V8 with a supercharger transverse mount under my hood.
When lookin under the hood in my Beretta, it is pretty cramped. When it comes to these headers though, it looks like there is room in the spots that matter. Either way, I'm building something.
1996 Beretta, 3400/5 speed, internet Tune, FFP UDP, Billet/poly mounts, ported intake manifolds, WAI, 2.5" mandrel exhaust, Borla ProXS, Intrax, KYB, poly front end kid, welded a-arms, strut, shock and sub-frame braces.
I was looking at those 1 5/8" band clamps you posted in the other thread, and came up with an idea for mine. Make the slip joints like you did, then take about 1/4" of the expanded part and cut it off. Then slide it onto the front header primary and weld it next to where the rear headers slide over the front primaries. Basically they will butt up against each other evenly without a "step" where the clamp goes. Then the clamp would have even pressure on both sides, creating a proper seal.
1996 Beretta, 3400/5 speed, internet Tune, FFP UDP, Billet/poly mounts, ported intake manifolds, WAI, 2.5" mandrel exhaust, Borla ProXS, Intrax, KYB, poly front end kid, welded a-arms, strut, shock and sub-frame braces.
So I got the motor stripped down yesterday, there didn't seem to be any visible problems with anything accept a small amount of oil sitting ontop of all the pistons, I don't know of it residual or not, or if the rings were leaking. I can't imagine the valves being an issue as they were professionally assembled... Any ideas about the oil? I'll load a picture later if I get a chance
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