2004 Monte Carlo LS Build (Strictly Performance)

[robert 1980]

Nice i have the same cat and cutout.My cutout isn't electric though.Maybe you should spend the 30buxs for the cam selector from Wot?I didn't want to spend the money on the heads either.But i was really happy with mine.I asked a shop what it would cost to do what ben did and it was more.So ben is more then fair in price

[trewyn15]

Okay I've decided to bite the bullet... I'm getting LS6 Springs now, thinking that cam and heads may happen. The only problem I have is the price of the ported heads so I'm not sure what I'll do there.

I do have a question though, what can I look at for power gains with camming the car? I want to get the biggest cam possible but keep in mind my car will be my DD. I am looking at getting either the street performance or street/strip cam from wot-tech. Any opinions would be great!

[trewyn15]

I've decided to just get a new y-pipe for the cutout.

Does anyone have any smaller ideas of what I can do for more power, smaller meaning price ~$100 or around there?

[trewyn15]

Still curious about the cutout y-pipe, i'm not sure if it's stainless, it is painted or coated somehow so that it's fully covered and pretty even and looks pretty good. My car won't be around snow or salt, I'm wondering how big of a deal it is to have this part stainless since it will be in my downpipe

[trewyn15]

These guys are right. GM DIS coils are generic, meaning that every engine from 4-bangers up to V8's uses the same coil.

Also, a hotter spark only helps if your engine is experiencing incomplete fuel burn. It's a common misconception that hotter spark will add power. But all the ignition system does is ignite the fuel/air mixture. If your ignition system is already igniting the fuel/air mixture reliably (i.e. no misfires), then a hotter ignition will yield no benefit.

You mentioned that you're not interested in cam or heads. But those are the two biggest power adders on a N/A engine. If it were me, I'd at least do a mild port job on the heads, to match those custom manifolds.

Anyway, best of luck. Looks like you're going to have a pretty nice engine.

Sounds like I'll just be keeping those coils just in case I have any issues then! haha

Actually looking into a cam doesn't look too bad to install I just don't have the funds to support myself there yet. I was also really looking into heads for a while but shipping costs are high so that's out of my ballpark for now. I may end up doing both of those later on in this build.

How much does a mild cam and heads usually gain HP wise on these 3400's? or hybrids, since I'm doing heads I guess I could do 3500 lower also once I get to that point.

[Blacktree]

These guys are right. GM DIS coils are generic, meaning that every engine from 4-bangers up to V8's uses the same coil.

Also, a hotter spark only helps if your engine is experiencing incomplete fuel burn. It's a common misconception that hotter spark will add power. But all the ignition system does is ignite the fuel/air mixture. If your ignition system is already igniting the fuel/air mixture reliably (i.e. no misfires), then a hotter ignition will yield no benefit.

You mentioned that you're not interested in cam or heads. But those are the two biggest power adders on a N/A engine. If it were me, I'd at least do a mild port job on the heads, to match those custom manifolds.

Anyway, best of luck. Looks like you're going to have a pretty nice engine.

[trewyn15]

Just got these in.

Magnaflow 2.5" Hi-Flo Stainless Cat.



McCord 2.5" Electric Cutout.



These are both being put into the downpipe, the cutout is more just for a little fun.

The y-pipe for the cutout is made of steel but I can't tell if it is stainless. I would assume not since it is painted or coated. The coating seems to be well done, it goes all the way through the inside of the y-pipe. I would assume I should probably just get one that's 304 stainless instead, just to be safe? Or would something like this be fine if the car isn't going to be driven in the snow and salt.

*Original post updated with these pictures*

[trewyn15]

how is you "tranny on the way out"

it's starting to slip sometimes, it's at 82k miles, which isn't a ton but is a common place for them to start failing from what I've read. When it does go out I'm doing a full rebuild to HD parts and hardened 4th and all that good stuff that I don't know about yet (more research when I get there) just to be safe in case I decide to mod more in the future

[bob442]

how is you "tranny on the way out"

[trewyn15]

I believe your thinking of the yellow springs or LS6 springs, not the lifters. Cams with more lift and intensity usually require stiffer springs than stock.

This is exactly what I was thinking ha thanks!

[hoosierloser]

I believe your thinking of the yellow springs or LS6 springs, not the lifters. Cams with more lift and intensity usually require stiffer springs than stock.

[trewyn15]

Stock lifters are fine. You can put the TCE lifter springs in for an upgrade if you like. It is my recommendation to tear the lifters apart and clean them up when you can anyway.

doesn't the street cam or street/track cam say yellow lifters I thought on the site? I could be completely wrong, I don't know a single thing when it comes to internals like that

[SappySE107]

Stock lifters are fine. You can put the TCE lifter springs in for an upgrade if you like. It is my recommendation to tear the lifters apart and clean them up when you can anyway.

[trewyn15]

A 180 t stat wont due much other than loose some heat for you in the winter if you drive it. as far as doing the exhaust, you wont get much of a gain on a stock motor. The most restrictive part of the exhaust is the U bend which is a quick fix, and the mufflers. When you get to headers the flex pipe is only 1 7/8 on the down pipe which is then restrictive. when i went to a straigh through exhaust it only just got louder, and sorta made the car feel 'heavy' after a while.
If your going to do the LIM you maise well put in a cam. pulling the motor only takes 45 minutes in a W body. 2 hours if you dont know what your doing. You dont have to go crazy on the cam choice to get noticble improvments, but this is my opinion, when you do things like that you get tempted to go over board.
If you want some really easy and cheap, and reliable power, swap in a 4t65E-HD Diff, you can get it off of any W body cars at wreckers with the RPO code MN7, you will want the diff, diff cover, Passenger side axel, and main drive shaft, to pull it out you need to pop both ball joints and remove both 34mm axel nuts, or cut the boots and buy a new axel for 78$, which is how much they are. Doing this will chainge your final drive from 305:1 to 3.29:1 i believe.

I'm honestly iffy on doing the LIM haha I've never torn into an engine even that far. My tranny is on it's way out so I'll upgrade that when it's completely shot I suppose, the cam is a little out of the picture just because of the price for now, with lifters and rods and everything, it's going to shoot it way out of my ballpark for now

[bob442]

What I'm looking to do:

I currently looking to make a custom downpipe with a McCord Electric Cutout followed by a Highflow Magnaflow cat. (To hold off until I can afford headers)

2.5" Pipe from the Cat all the way back to the Y-Pipe with a 16" Resonator.

I'm also looking to make some 3500 Exhaust Manifolds work to take the full benefit of the downpipe.

With the L67 coils I'm looking to get red Taylor Wires and new spark plugs (AC Delco Stockers).

Poly Dogbone Mounts to stiffen up the engine some more.

180* T-Stat.

Overkill Tuned PCM or Potentially a Dyno Tune Locally.

Does anyone have any ideas what to add to this? Also any ideas I can do for a little more power?

A 180 t stat wont due much other than loose some heat for you in the winter if you drive it. as far as doing the exhaust, you wont get much of a gain on a stock motor. The most restrictive part of the exhaust is the U bend which is a quick fix, and the mufflers. When you get to headers the flex pipe is only 1 7/8 on the down pipe which is then restrictive. when i went to a straigh through exhaust it only just got louder, and sorta made the car feel 'heavy' after a while.
If your going to do the LIM you maise well put in a cam. pulling the motor only takes 45 minutes in a W body. 2 hours if you dont know what your doing. You dont have to go crazy on the cam choice to get noticble improvments, but this is my opinion, when you do things like that you get tempted to go over board.
If you want some really easy and cheap, and reliable power, swap in a 4t65E-HD Diff, you can get it off of any W body cars at wreckers with the RPO code MN7, you will want the diff, diff cover, Passenger side axel, and main drive shaft, to pull it out you need to pop both ball joints and remove both 34mm axel nuts, or cut the boots and buy a new axel for 78$, which is how much they are. Doing this will chainge your final drive from 305:1 to 3.29:1 i believe.