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262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics
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Yeah of course nothing wrong with forged pistons, but I'm just saying that the tune is very important, cause the same thing could have happen with forged pistons, they would have just lasted 10 secs longer :P
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Originally posted by 90BlueZ View Postat 10psi, forged pistons are a band aid (and an expensive one). Fixed the tune and whatever else that was wrong made more sense :P
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at 10psi, forged pistons are a band aid (and an expensive one). Fixed the tune and whatever else that was wrong made more sense :P
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To my knowledge 5 and 6 cylinder are the ones that go lean at WOT or at least 80% and the same goes for oiling
IDK why but the 3500 block has oilers on that end Some correct me if I am wrong
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Originally posted by Purple pit View PostMy biggest problem is grasping what all goes on in the intake. I know what happens in there, but I just don't know it all interacts. Do accustic waves do anything to pressure waves?
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My biggest problem is grasping what all goes on in the intake. I know what happens in there, but I just don't know it all interacts. Do accustic waves do anything to pressure waves?
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Originally posted by Purple pit View PostI'll be waiting to see how it turns out!
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Originally posted by Purple pit View PostI love your work, but I have always felt that the rear cylinders were the ones that needed help. At WOT that is. The energy built up pushes the air past the rears.
I dream of what can't be. Individual equal length runners(180) and a good size plenum.
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I love your work, but I have always felt that the rear cylinders were the ones that needed help. At WOT that is. The energy built up pushes the air past the rears.
I dream of what can't be. Individual equal length runners(180) and a good size plenum.
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Originally posted by TGP37 View Postbtw, protect that welding cable from oil and oily grim. It will swell the insulation and eventually cause an open wire. That's the only downside I can think of. Keep the oil off it and you have a good battery cable set.
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Just be sure the block isn't grounding through the throttle or trans cables. Can start a fire w/o obvious symptoms to warn you. I seen it happen to a minivan. Was in flames 1 block from the garage. Wasn't me, thank god. I'd die of embarrassment.
I did a 3 way grounding that tied the block, frame and subframe together. Then grounded the batt(-) to the frame in the trunk. Worked just fine, though I did run some spare "00" from batt(-) to the alternator frame to better ground the alt.
All my grounds and main power are "00" cable, thick stuff used by truck drivers. Kinda over kill but I like it.
btw, protect that welding cable from oil and oily grim. It will swell the insulation and eventually cause an open wire. That's the only downside I can think of. Keep the oil off it and you have a good battery cable set.Last edited by TGP37; 03-22-2013, 06:56 PM.
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