UDP installation, how do you keep the crank from turning?

[IsaacHayes]

Ok, quick question here, how do you keep the engine from turning over when tightening down the UDP? They say hold the fly wheel. Well I have a 4T60-E and it's not very easy to even see that area, let alone somehow hold on to the fly wheel!!

What have others done??

[DarksideGA]

once you get the pulley on and the belt on use a set of clamping pliers, to hold the belt togehter tight enough not to turn, or you could get one of the actual belt wrenches that have a rubber strap and a clamp on the handle , wrap that around the pulley find a good spot for it to push against while youre turning and walla!

[IsaacHayes]

I was thinking of that (using the belt tension) but wasn't sure if the belt would excert enough force to keep it from turning. I'll give that a try. I've heard only good things about the FFP UDP, and figure might as well add that to my project as it's a simple bolt on. My stereo shoulnd't be affected by .1 volt, my alternator runs way above 13.8volts anyways.

Do you happen to know which direction the motor rotates the pulley? like if you were looking at the pully, does it rotate CW or CCW?

Thanks for your help!

[RednBlack]

Clockwise.

[IsaacHayes]

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind as I'll need to manual turn it over when checking rocker arm clearance with my large port LIM.

[bszopi]

There is actually just a small plastic cover, held on by 2-3 bolts, that covers the flywheel/flexplate. Pull that cover off, then stick something through one of the visible holes...

[StudlyCamaro]

or just shove a screwdriver in one of the teeth on the flexplate (thats what i did)

[DarksideGA]

be careful when installing not to pound it on too far, that was the fatal mistake that i made when i originally installed mine and eventually led to the threads being too torn up to use anymore, i pushed it on so far that the sensor ring was cutting into the crankshaft sensor wires, led to about a month of misery also make sure the belt grooves are lined up with the other pulleys or you will start stripping the grooves off the belt. if anyone has one id like to buy another and try it again and get it right this time now i know what to watch out for.

[IsaacHayes]

I'll look into the flexplate some more, but the engine bay is so damn cramped that stupid huge auto, hard to see anything with that beast in there.

Darkside: Thanks for the tip. I guess you push on, then check with the belt, push on some more would be best. But wouldn't it bottom out and not go any further once you put the bolt on? Hmm I'll have to look more at how it goes together. ! I thought you said strip the grooves off the pulley, I know aluminum is soft, but then read that you said belt. hehe.

If anyone has one cheap I'll buy one too. I remember when they were $80 now they are like $120!!

[Superdave]

Impact gun

[JMo60]

ive done both the impact method (best) and jaming the flywheel with a screwdriver and having a helper tighten the pullye

[RebelGT]

I put bolts into holes of the pulley and used a big screw driver.

[1988GTU]

Impact gun and an air regulator set at the right torque spec.

[IsaacHayes]

I wish I had an air gun. But I don't. Do I need to use a torque wrench when doing it? Or is it not as critical as intake manifold bolts..

[Superdave]

I wish I had an air gun. But I don't. Do I need to use a torque wrench when doing it? Or is it not as critical as intake manifold bolts..

i didn't torque mine to any certain spec.. just made sure it was hella tight. i used my breaker bar on it with a wrench jammed through a hole in the old flexplate... but mine was on an engine stand so it was a little easier :P


I'd pull the starter then rotate the engine till you can see a hole in the flexplate, then jam a big bar in there. that should do the trick.. just don't bend the flexplate