Z34 Keeps dying

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    lol Changed out the throttle position sensor. The old one was pretty worn. Car drives great, but the brakes are setting off the SES light. Vacuum lines again, maybe.

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  • 55trucker
    replied
    Are you seeing coolant/corrosion around the threads on the adapter that thread into the lower intake or from the *seal* that the pipe is secured into the adapter by? If the *crust* is from the seal you might want to take a closer look at the seal...it's designed to allow you to turn the adapter to screw into the manifold while the pipe remains stationary but sealed to the adapter.

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    Heater return! Thank you. lol

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  • 55trucker
    replied
    Not quite sure which item you're referring to.....the heater core return pipe/hose?......or the bypass pipe that leads around to the far side of the forward head?

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    Hey man. What it the piece next to the thermostat housing? Today I pulled the battery and air box and noticed dried up crusty coolant on it and on the cross over pipe.

    Couldn't find anything wrong with the vacuum reserve either. Lots of moisture in the exhaust though. This car just has a million and one problems...

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  • 55trucker
    replied
    The heater A/C controls are electric over vacuum. There is a vacuum solenoid box that is mounted on top of the blower motor housing assembly. If that box has failed you will not be able to move the doors in the heater assembly. There is also a vacuum tank that is a reserve (keeps vacuum to the controls under full throttle when engine vacuum is low) that is in front of the drivers side front wheel (hidden) it has a vacuum line feeding it. If the tank has cracked open or the vacuum line is damaged then you can lose vacuum there as well.
    Last edited by 55trucker; 01-04-2009, 08:01 PM.

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    Feeling like a real idiot now...

    I never noticed the split vac line on the cruise servo. No one else did either though lol. I just patched it. Drove around for an hour or 2. Car drives a lot better but it still died.

    Reading up on it; I'm back to the vacuum leaks. Just can't find it.

    BTW, the heater controls and cruise control haven't worked since I bought it. My bad

    Anyone got the vacuum diagrams?

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    Well another shop yesterday told me they couldn't figure it out. I drove the car home and opened the hood. Just checking; but I found a vacuum line unhooked lol. I hooked it back up and clamped it, since it kept falling out. It was the one from the intake flex tube to the T fitting behind the EGR valve. Thing is, it ran worse when I hooked it up...

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  • 55trucker
    replied
    It would seem that you definitely have an EGR issue seeing as a code keeps setting. If one or all of the pintles are stuck open at all time that will upset the idle mixture & also cause a *surge* situation when at speed. At idle there should be none or next to no EGR flow. You might want to remove the EGR and clean out all of the passages on the bottom (wire brush & mild solvent), also clean out the intake manifold passage & as well the feed tube from the rear exhaust manifold, you'll need a fresh pair of EGR gaskets as well to complete the work. If the EGR has failed then you'll need a good replacement. Happy to help....
    Last edited by 55trucker; 12-31-2008, 12:01 PM.

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    Well, the car did die while we were scanning it. No surg or chugging. Just idle and dead... It gave the same EGR code. He did clear it before it died and after gave the same code. It died again today so there's a fresh code there. I thought I fixed all the broke vacuum lines but I may have missed something (I wouldn't doubt it). The fuel system is alright. Just cleaned it about a month ago. I replaced the IAC thinking that was it orignally but it didn't help any. Plugs and wires are new.

    Thanx again 55trucker. You've been a big help through my little mess. lol

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  • 55trucker
    replied
    When the trans mechanic had his scanner on the car did he clear any(or all) of the previous codes that were set?....once a code is set, it won't necessarily re-repeat (flash the SES) itself it the code is already in the ECM. The ECM needs to be cleared of all codes so that if there IS a fault it will be reset. If the trans is clear and the problem is engine related only now you need to diagnose where the damned annoyance is....hope these charts may help you

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    Okay, I just got back from the trans guy and there is nothing wrong with my transmission and it's not the alternator either... The code it threw was an EGR code. I am at a complete lose now. Does anybody know the common issues that it could be?

    Car's going in on Wednesday. Kinda want to know what I'm walking into.

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  • 55trucker
    replied
    Well, be patient, go see this trans mechanic?, let him do the wiring diagnosis (he should be able to test the TCC remotely and also let you know what the recent SES code that was set is), ask him to inspect the fluid, ask him his opinion as to whether the fluid being in a burnt state (whether or not it is due to a failed stator or burnt trans clutches) is enough concern for further internal problems and can be rectified by just replacing the fluid along with a solenoid change.

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  • GMfan1111
    replied
    the computer could be shot but just to be safe I'd do a transmission flush and fluid change since you did mention that the fluid did smell like it was burnt alot of folks don't do that until it's too late and that can cause problems when it comes to shifting

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  • LifefulDeath
    replied
    Okay, I'm taking the car in on Monday. Most places I called wanted $650 to just replace the TCC and let me go. Guy I'm going to will inspect the outside of the tranny and wiring for free and quoted $545 for the TCC. He thinks it's more likely to be the solenoid.

    I'm not sure if it's getting worse but the other day, going down the highway, the engine just bogged way down then revved back up, then down and then leveled out and the SES light came on. Hasn't done it since...

    I do know the MPG suck! If I try to hold my speed (gas pedal has to be in just the right spot) the engine rocks. Like gentally pumping the gas. Back and forth. Stop and go traffic makes it stall. Engine has never gone over 180 since I've had it. It does accelerate like... poo.

    I've been told to "Just unplug it". Guessing they ment the sensor but when the heck is it? Or would this help me at all?

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