95 3.4L DOHC Monte Carlo Crazy Idle Issue

[pocket-rocket]

WooT! Glad to hear it worked out ok.

[SappySE107]

awesome

[tincherb]

Well gentlemen, its complete. I fired it up about an hour ago and no miss. I didn't let it run long because I'm freezing. Ben, you've been a lifesaver in many ways and I really appreciate all you did for me. Hopefully this is the last time I work on this car. Thanks again.

[Fierobuffoon]

truly painful to read..

I really tried everything before it broke. I used a lot of PB Blaster over the 2 days I was trying. I tried to wedge out the tapered ring with a chisel/screwdriver, used a puller with some hammer taps to the back side. When it broke I was hitting the backside. It started to mov'n right before it broke as I could see the gear sliding on the back side. I thought I was in the clear. The tapered ring never came out. It broke right at the edge of the machining for the cam sensor pickup where a likely stress riser would be.

To get the other one off, I put channel locks on the tapered ring an sqeezed them as tight as I could get them. Then, I carefully!, tap'd the back side of the gear and the ring easily fell out. IMO, this worked the best! HA! These things were rusted (may or may not be normal) on the shaft. Anyway, its off. I got a nice paperweight in the process!

Look for some Kroil, before you start working on your car again.. it may be expensive but a little heat, let cool, and apply Kroil and soft tapping and rusted stuff comes apart, in a better way..#@ IMHO.. after reading all of these posts its easier to make marks on the timing gears, and crank snout*pully*, then use the alignment tools, with the belt removed, rather than mes swith stubborn gears, in fact ive come up with a homemade tool you might like..take a short rachet of your choice, and two sockets for the cam pulley bolts,click on one socket, and then put the other one on a lined up head, then weld the second socket to the handle of the ratchet,allowing you to hold one cam while rotating the other......

[SappySE107]

awesome, now you can time it no problem

[pocket-rocket]

I know now that there has been two miracles that have occured this time of year, the first is the birth of Christ and the second is this...[ATTACH=CONFIG]5205[/ATTACH]

Lol!

For some reason, the #'s 80 or 88 ft-lbs are coming to mind, most likely 80 ft-lbs for cam gear torque spec. I can look it up if you like.

[tincherb]

I know now that there has been two miracles that have occured this time of year, the first is the birth of Christ and the second is this...

[tincherb]

I got one more off after about 4 hours worth of work. I honestly don't think I can get enough force on that last rear most gear to get it to move. I soaked it in PB blaster last night in an attempt to break it free. Hopefully something will give today. Maybe I'll need the exhaust cam gear on the rear.

What is the torque for the cam gear bolts suppose to be? Is there a torque list for bolts on this engine anywhere.

[SappySE107]

Stick a screwdriver in the gap on the washer, and twist. Hit it with a hammer (even if it looks like this will just make it tighter). Just need to break it loose. The correct procedure has you spin the crank over 3 times to make sure the belt is fully stretched for installation and then the cams tightened up. The tensioner will not put equal tension on the belt. It will mostly be tight between the tensioner pulley, and the rear exhaust cam. You will be off a few degrees if this rear exhaust is not spinning free. It will run like that, but not as well as it could.

[tincherb]

You really should have them all loose to properly set the timing. You at least need the rear cam gears loose for the tensioner to do its job once you release it. I can send it as is but I feel that is almost a waste of time and money when I can probably get it taken care of at the machine shop for a good price and then you can do the job right. May as well try to bust those rears loose, cause i know I can do them on this motor. I don't want much for them, I just want you do to it right. Shipping is the expensive part on a full setup.

In an attempt to do this the right way I went out and tried to get those gears off. It took all I had to get the bolts out of the cam gear on the intake of the rear head and to this point can't get the exhaust loose! I've decided to spend some time trying to get the cam gear off and am having the same progress I had on the front head. What gives! I have first hand experience in where these cams break and I'm getting dangerously close. I don't konw if the risk is worth the effort. When I put the timing belt on and set the rear cams as they are suppose to be, and put load on the belt to simulate the tensioner, the cams are set right. I don't know why I have to loose'n those gears as long as they are in time with each other when the drive belt load is applied and the tensioner is in action.

I'm convinced the rust and over torqueing has caused this problem. Otherwise there would be a lot more posts like this one.

[tincherb]

Sounds good to me. I really appreciate you doing this for me...I know it was a pain. Let me know how to go about paying for it. By the way how many miles is on this engine.

[SappySE107]

$50 shipped priority sound ok? I have the cam by itself in a box within a box. If you want the carrier and the cam let me know. They will just increase the shipping costs.

[SappySE107]

You really should have them all loose to properly set the timing. You at least need the rear cam gears loose for the tensioner to do its job once you release it. I can send it as is but I feel that is almost a waste of time and money when I can probably get it taken care of at the machine shop for a good price and then you can do the job right. May as well try to bust those rears loose, cause i know I can do them on this motor. I don't want much for them, I just want you do to it right. Shipping is the expensive part on a full setup.

[tincherb]

I got the cam carrier off, but managed to round the bolt head for the intake cam. got the exhaust cam out. I will see if the local machine shop can get it off, as I do not have a good tool for it. I should have left the carrier on the motor for doing the cam bolt.

Send the whole cam carrie!>!>!> I'd throw that whole sucker on if got here.

[SappySE107]

I got the cam carrier off, but managed to round the bolt head for the intake cam. got the exhaust cam out. I will see if the local machine shop can get it off, as I do not have a good tool for it. I should have left the carrier on the motor for doing the cam bolt.