egay....

[v6h.o.]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2450725352

is it me or does it sound like this guy is just selling a tube of sealant to fix the leaking Oring?

[Anonymous]

Yah that's it. And gaskets that he got from NAPA. I have never had a problem with the O-ring. Not before the rebuild, and so far not after.

[getragz34]

$750.00 less

So for around $100.00 bucks you can fix it without removing the cylinder head ?
So it is just sealant then that is for sale, besides the gaskets that you can buy.
Isn't JB weld supposed to be afective as well if you don't want to remove your cylinder heads ?

Or is there a better way to fix that problem without removing your cylinder heads ?

Later

[getragz34]

P.S :

Always beware of buying things off of Egay.

[ryan.hess]

I think he's selling instructions on how to grind the mounting tang down... something that GM does anyways and charges $700 to do. (They "remove" the head ) $20 worth of gaskets and a search on here will give you the same effect

[Anonymous]

I did mine without even pulling the upper plenum off. Who needs gaskets?

[customandsound]

that guy is on crack !!!!!!!!!

[4spdz34]

ya at the dealer they just pull up the cap and put a sbc distributor gasket under there thats cut at an angle, where its cut they put rtv on it. lol

[pocket-rocket]

ya at the dealer they just pull up the cap and put a sbc distributor gasket under there thats cut at an angle, where its cut they put rtv on it. lol

I did that and replaced the o ring when we had the heads off. Reason I did the RTV and gasket is because it was a hardware store o ring (not auto parts store) so I wasn't sure if it would fail faster then an auto grade o ring. Better safe then sorry, lol.

[Juglenaut]

A high-tepm gasket (usually black and harder than red) cost about 1.29 at menards. I also modified the cap and the mount plank sitting its phat butt right over the cap. Never had to remove the heads and I can take the plug all the way out. I replaced the inner and put a tight fitting o-ring around the base of the cap and bolted it down snug. 2 years later no leak, bone dry except for very very minor seepage out out the head gasket. The only leak I got is a line or something close to the oil-cooler on a drip per day thing.

Most (not all) silicone red is 250+ degree 50PSI, black is 300+ depending on grade and compound 100PSI.

Low tepm silicone is usually squishy, softer and easily torn.

I used JB weld to help secure that water nipple after I fubbbed the new tap for it, the manifold flew out of the hold-down vise while I was trying to press the drill and it ended up cutting to much out on one side. The tap worked, but had major air gaps