Headers By Aaron-*PICS*-56k BEWARE

[Anonymous]

The primaries are about 30" long.

The fans DO fit, easily.

The fronts will work on an auto btw, not the backs. More later

[Anonymous]

I like. Does that top pipe interfere with the dog bone any? Have you done the rears yet? And how long did you end up choosing for the primary's?

30", which maximises high end without too much sacrifice to the low end. It clears the dogbone by 1/2". I have done the rears-But today I had to take them back apart, cutting my spot welds, and redesign them becuz I forgot about a few things.

I'm curious.. Your getting them chromed, which will look cool, but will it do anything to help the underhood temps?

I am not wrapping them. Wrapping headers off no real gains. It helps control underhood temps, but makes the pipe lose about 15% of its strentgh and it won't last as long. And the Z34s control undeerhood temps well becuz we have air coming in, and going out through the louvers. And my intake draws air from the fender, so it is cold no matter waht. I am chroming them for looks and becuz it will protect them.

do they clear the fans? Looks pretty close...

Are you gonna run them into one pipe or run true dual? I bet messing with resonators and what-not could produce a decent exhaust note with true duals...

They do clear the fans, pretty easily too. They collect right where the stock downpipe ended into a 2.5" line and run into my current exhaust.

How cramped is the rear, and how did you do the collector for it?

I didn't want to say this becuz I will get crap for it. The rears collect right in front of the subframe. I cut a big hole, about 3" diameter, inot the rear subframe whcih is right where the collector fits. I ahve a 3/4" piece of solid steel reinforcing it underneath the collector, and I am making a new steel STB. The rear subframe does little more than provide the car with more engine support. The Berettas didn't have it. Pics will come soon on that. The collector's are 6" long btw, I would have rathered 8", but such is.

So give me crap about cutting the frame, I don;t care. The car was still just as stable, I didn;t notice it at all. Except the tires eemed to not grab ANY traction. This was without the rest of the exhuats hooked up, just the headers. But I have since pulled the reqar to rework them so I could have an alternator cooling pipe.

As for autos, the fronts will be the same, but the rears won;t fit. There is actually more room back there than I thought.

Thanks for all of the support, and for not bragging on my welding skillz(or lack thereof)

[BowtieKid79]

glad you have something done

[Anonymous]

Thanks again

[Rhedalert]

Hold on I'm confused....there's a hole in the subframe for the rear manifold to go THRU it??

And I also have to ask about your plans for the upper radiator hose. It's been bugging me.

[BowtieKid79]

hope your body doesnt flex cause the subframe was cut up and weakened

[Anonymous]

I could have built my motor myslef. I just didn't. I didn't have the time. As for the rest, I don't have time to argue.

My middle primary on the front bank gets in the way of the stock radiator line. SO I have to go to Autozone, and search through 20 million hoses for one that will work. Not too big of a deal. Yes I have a hole in my subframe, which was Bowtiekid's idea

[Streetrodder83]

Cutting through the crossmember to route exhaust is quite a common practice on ladder frame cars. Obviously there is more strengh, due to the fact that there is an entire frame there. But, you can easily overcome any weakness to the structure by putting in 2X3 rec. tubing sub frame connectors. If you do them make sure that the 3" is vertical to get the most beam strength, and make sure your welding skills are up to the task, because it is very easy to blow through the sheet metal if you don't have a tight fit. But, that would take care of any chassis flex.

[Anonymous]

Thank you Bowtiekid79. And if you are still interested in my extra pipe, just IM me.

I am not concerned about it but glad to hear that I am not a psycho for doing it. A 3/4" piece of solid steel reinforcing it is enough I think.

[Anonymous]

I am going to post exactly what I did and my steps so you guys might be able to make sets of your own.

1)I bought the pipe
2)I bought 10' of 3/8" diameter copper tubing, this was used for design. I cut it into 30" lenghs. No matter how to bend it, it will still be 30". So I bent it, and played with them until I liked them and I made sure they ended in the same place. I then cut the pipe in the same general shape. Then I duct taped the pipe together and test fitted them, making minor adjustments. Then I welded. After each pipe was welded I test fitted them onto the flange and welded them to it. Then I took these pics. Sure I made a lot of little adjustments throughout, but I am not going to mention those. For the flanges I used a piece of mild steel, measuring 4" X 12" X 3/8". Then I used the neighbors plasma cutter(FUN!!!) to cut the ports in them and drilled the bolt holes. It aligns perfect. If you all have any other questions or want me to send you my prebent copper tubing, just ask.

[conley3.1]

Those are sweet... Good job, especially since you taught yourself how to weld.

[wireman121]

yea, they look good. sounds like a lot more hope than i think i will be able to ever do. you mention that there is a lot more room in the back than you thought, was that referring to automatics, or are they stil hopeless? :-)

[dykz34]

The difference in space behind the auto vs. 5 spd. is AMAZING. You can actually SEE the alternator from underneath the 5 spd. car whereas with the auto, you can't at all. I'm leaning towards him implying that the room is for the 5 spd. guys.

[Anonymous]

The room is for the 5-speed. You will see when I get the pics of the rear up-they make some pretty radical bends and its hard to imagine them fitting. I wish I didn't have that axle thigny tho. Or the shift cables. They get in the way. I'll just cut them....


Without the rear manifold, it is quite surprising how much room there is back there. I mean there is like over a foot between the back of the block and the firewall, with only the axle cutting through it.

[v6h.o.]

Nice Aaron! very nice.

Congrats. it takes some courage to go ahead with a project of this size. looks like you did it right too! two thumbs!

i cant wait to start my header build in the next few months.

very nice indeed!