Roberts 89 GT/U build 3400/3500 WOT-Parts

[robert 1980]

what was the 60ft on that slip?

R/T .553
60' 2.138
330 6057
1/8 9.238
MPH 77.70
1000 11.910
1/4 14.169@ 98.92 .......Im guessing you think with a 2.0 or 1.9 60' it would be around 13.9 or better?

[3400-95-Modified]

what was the 60ft on that slip?

[robert 1980]

Well since the build the car has ran a best of 14.169@ 98.92 The last time i was at the strip i hit 100mph trap speed but only a 14.2 Im hoping with slick this fall for a 13.9 maybe better=)

[robert 1980]

Maybe one day i'll buy the parts and a 3500.LOL
Then you can build that for me jon=)

[3400-95-Modified]

According to my timeslips I'm either 320 crank or 320 wheel... I'm not sure what MPH converters are estimating but I think its crank HP...

[robert 1980]

Yeah i won't be anywhere near 300 whp.
Im hoping for 220 225 to the wheels.
I still drive it alot on the street.But 300 n/a whp would be amazing too!!!

[ForcedFirebird]

From what i recall hearing ChevetteBoy from winnipeg cracked the oil gally with 25 PSI in a 3400. I think he was pushing well over 400hp, and the bottom end was still together, so the 3400 block will give before the crank. i think if you want to make over 500hp you should be looking at something bigger than a 3400 anyways

He was making 500tq and ~475hp and the mains were stretching. He didn't want to swap to a 3400 and had asked about making GenI 4-bolt mains. There was a Midget racer I sold a 3500 to that cracked the galley, but he was at 14:1SCR and making over 300hp N/A.

[robert 1980]

One benefit is WOT 3500 heads flow better then stock.After 2,500 rpm this car wakes up.
I also have compition ported intakes from WOT.Me and jon talked about the 3500 swap but with a perfect 3400.
It's wasn't really needed.Im happy with everything and this spring i'll have a few time slips

[robert 1980]

I never said jon took to long.I just didn't want to risk driving the car in the snow.The only real benefits i was looking for was more power.I wanted to make more power and get the car into the 13 second range.The car runs amazing i drove it today.I've wanted to do this for awhile and when jon said he would help i didn't think twice about it.

[bob442]

I have yet to see real proof that the 3400 can't handle as much power as the 3500 can bottom end wise... I also found out that stock 3400 rods are forged... and 3500 ones are not... granted yes you get the forged crank, but I know of one turbo 3500 where he broke that crank under boost.

From what i recall hearing ChevetteBoy from winnipeg cracked the oil gally with 25 PSI in a 3400. I think he was pushing well over 400hp, and the bottom end was still together, so the 3400 block will give before the crank. i think if you want to make over 500hp you should be looking at something bigger than a 3400 anyways

[ForcedFirebird]

Are you positive there is in fact a cast iron crank?? Mine has the numbers 5922 on it and the parting lines appear to be of a forged crank its not skinny like a cast crank would have and its thick

This has been discussed many times. There's 2 different GM part numbers and a considerable weight difference between the two.

[alpinestar10]

3500 rods are snapped powder forged just like most modern engines. There are 2 cranks, one is steel and the other is cast. Links to the crank breaking?

Are you positive there is in fact a cast iron crank?? Mine has the numbers 5922 on it and the parting lines appear to be of a forged crank its not skinny like a cast crank would have and its thick

[3400-95-Modified]

I don't think he ever posted it, It was Rodney from up in Canada, I guess you could PM him about it his sn is 3400beretta on Bnet, not sure if he has an account here, I heard he broke the couter weight off of it, but without seeing pics it's a unknown really. I just haven't seen anyone break a 3400 bottom end either so I don't see the weak link in it yet, Obviously pistons are a weak link but they arent any different than whats in the 3500 to my knowledge.

I wasnt aware that the 3500 rods were powder forged, my bad.

[ForcedFirebird]

I have yet to see real proof that the 3400 can't handle as much power as the 3500 can bottom end wise... I also found out that stock 3400 rods are forged... and 3500 ones are not... granted yes you get the forged crank, but I know of one turbo 3500 where he broke that crank under boost.

Also with just about everything fitting the 3400 block mount wise in a Beretta without modification or fabrication, then its a better choice in my opinion... I'm also able to keep my AC by using the 3400 block.

For my application going from 9.5 to 9.2 compression wasn't a bad thing either since I am spraying quite a bit... I don't think the 9.8 would have blown, but being slightly lower compression I do have the buffer to go with a higher shot in the future.

And then simply not having an external crank trigger to worry about is a little piece of mind for me... And I was able to re-use one of my old 3100 oil pans so I could keep my low oil sensor hooked up and not have to modify anything on my harness.

It's personal preference though, If you want to add those additional costs to make a 3500 fit in your car then go with it, but if you want more of a direct swap then using a 3400 definitely makes that possible, and it all depends on what your final plans are for the car.

3500 rods are snapped powder forged just like most modern engines. There are 2 cranks, one is steel and the other is cast. Links to the crank breaking?

[3400-95-Modified]

I have yet to see real proof that the 3400 can't handle as much power as the 3500 can bottom end wise... I also found out that stock 3400 rods are forged... and 3500 ones are not... granted yes you get the forged crank, but I know of one turbo 3500 where he broke that crank under boost.

Also with just about everything fitting the 3400 block mount wise in a Beretta without modification or fabrication, then its a better choice in my opinion... I'm also able to keep my AC by using the 3400 block.

For my application going from 9.5 to 9.2 compression wasn't a bad thing either since I am spraying quite a bit... I don't think the 9.8 would have blown, but being slightly lower compression I do have the buffer to go with a higher shot in the future.

And then simply not having an external crank trigger to worry about is a little piece of mind for me... And I was able to re-use one of my old 3100 oil pans so I could keep my low oil sensor hooked up and not have to modify anything on my harness.

It's personal preference though, If you want to add those additional costs to make a 3500 fit in your car then go with it, but if you want more of a direct swap then using a 3400 definitely makes that possible, and it all depends on what your final plans are for the car.