'96 Century general project thread

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  • Purple pit
    replied
    That is nice to hear that the wiper didn't come all the way off. Well, you were close enough to I-70(lol). The springs held and didn't care, so just wondering what the bad idea was.

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  • 1QUICKHATCH
    replied
    Good to hear that it is working good for you! I like the Grand Am wheels on it!

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  • LeftVentricle
    replied
    The blade was one stroke away from flying off. I bought a new one first thing in the morning.

    I-70 wasn't a problem. The storm was on one of the numerous 2 lane state roads. At night. With lots of oncoming semis.

    Wagons have stiffer springs than sedans, naturally. I would like to replace them with van springs at some point, but I'm having a hard time finding the isolators for the rear springs.

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  • Purple pit
    replied
    Unremarkable.....that is a good thing! Did the wiper arm scratch the windshield? Doesn't look like that oversized load had much effect on the springs.
    Ah I-70, the place of wind, rain and nasty heat in the spring/summer and you can sometimes get all three in just a few hours!

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  • LeftVentricle
    replied
    I took the wagon on a 3000 mile road trip last month, and it performed admirably. No issues, averaged 27 miles per gallon, with a couple tanks hitting 29. The trip itself was unremarkable. We went to visit my wife's grandparents in Russell, KS. Coming from Las Vegas, I am unused to things closing at 9 pm, as I found out when I went to get a nip of booze for the wife at 9:30.

    There was an enormous rain storm that I had to drive through without my wipers, since the passenger side wiper blade decided to fuck off the arm. That was fun, and not at all harrowing.

    Not much else to report. I will probably spend some quality time with my yellow '92 Century sedan in the near future. It has quite a bit of deferred maintenance that needs to be addressed. Oil change, transmission service, engine and transmission mounts. I'll make sure I take pictures of the mess that is the mounts.

    OH! And I applied a new badge to the wagon. This is probably one of the very few cosmetic modifications I will do to this car: Buick tri-shield and Century name badge on the tailgate. This generation of Century has name badges on the quarter panels, but they fell off long ago. That, and my "RUNNING IN THE 90'S" and Roadkill bumper stickers.



    And today's edition of "What made you think that was a good idea?", fridge on the roof.

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  • Purple pit
    replied
    Oh, well guess that leaves him out.

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    OBD2? don't look at me, what little I've dealt with it, I'm not super fond of.

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  • Purple pit
    replied
    You may have to PM some of the major players here. Ben or 3X00 mod or Robertisaar(spelling?).Forgetting a few others(sorry guys). Milzy could help too. Can't help much other than to say: yes on the wideband. Oh and if you got a better R/T time would have had a 16.

    Could always do a cold air intake to help match the exhaust mods. With a heat wrap for those hot NV days. Not sure on the size of your down pipe, just know that the one on my car is a restriction.

    Very true on what is the most important!

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  • LeftVentricle
    replied
    I keep joking about how, maybe if I had just taken a shit before I went to the track I could have made it into the 16s! SO close I can taste it!

    I think I'm about at the limit of what I can do without going into more serious modifications. I will more than likely be doing up a complete exhaust, probably using the manifolds that came with the Malibu engine. The routing is completely different than what is stock for my car, so it'll have to be custom from the manifolds back. Toward that end, I have purchased a Magnaflow 14266 muffler, which is specified for an F-body. Transverse mounting, 2.5 in, dual 2.25 out. Will mount in the stock muffler's location. That will have to wait though.

    I also purchased HP Tuners. I haven't done anything of note with it yet, other than turning off reporting of those EVAP codes I talked about in the video above, and changing the tire/gear constant to match the shorter tires so the speedometer reads correctly. I am a little intimidated by the program, I'll be honest. WAY too much potential to fuck something up. I don't see how I can figure out why the PCM continues to report a lean running condition, since when I logged a couple of drives, it didn't report anything about the air-fuel ratio. Do I need a wideband for that, or can I do something to change the fueling without one? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Beyond that, I don't know. Since this is the family car, reliability and good fuel economy are of paramount importance. Delving deeper into mods tends to jeopardize both of those things, as far as I've seen.

    If anyone thinks it would be of help, I am attaching my current tune and the log I recorded.
    Attached Files

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  • Purple pit
    replied
    Nice! Got any more plans to lower the ET?

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  • LeftVentricle
    replied
    Lightness + shorter front tires = over 1/2 second improvement in ET. No mechanical changes. Before and after.



    Also, on today's edition of "Inappropriate Burnouts"...

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  • Purple pit
    replied
    Looks like hand welds. If they are good ones then you should be just fine.

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  • LeftVentricle
    replied
    I bought the radiator from Genesis Auto Parts. Made by Silla.

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    that radiator an ebay special?

    if it's any indication, a lot of the cheaper radiators I've seen/installed tend to have end-tank seals in surprisingly short amounts of time, making all aluminum units rather attractive.

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  • LeftVentricle
    replied
    Minor update.

    I don't know if I mentioned this, but my yellow '92 sedan had some interesting kludges when I bought it. One of them was a toggle switch that powered the fuel pump. Since it was literally lamp cord going straight to the battery, it needed to go. I found out that the reason that switch was there was that the relay and fuse had gone out. Why someone would go to the effort of hot-wiring the pump instead of replacing a $10 relay that took less than five minutes, I'll never know. The problem lie in the fact that they directly wired the fuel pump to the battery and switch, inside the tank. This pinched the o-ring that seals the top of the tank where the sender goes, and allowed all manner of outside air and water to get in and rust the inside. As a consequence, it clogs filters every few weeks and has eaten three pumps.

    I bought a new tank and sender from Rock Auto and slammed it in today. I didn't take pictures, because I'm sure most of you know what it's like to pull and replace a fuel tank. Hopefully that's the end of that issue. It damn well better be.

    Also, since I didn't want to soak myself in coolant, I hired a mobile mechanic to replace the water pump. The gasket had been leaking for a while, and with another Las Vegas summer approaching, keeping the engine cool is a priority. $211 was totally worth not having to do it myself.

    Speaking of keeping things cool, I got a hold of this:


    All-aluminum radiator to replace the plastic one. It seems to be put together pretty well. Only cost $100.












    I will be installing it tomorrow most likely. I will take a few pictures of that though. I have a 2500 mile road trip planned for spring break, so making sure I don't end up on the back of a truck in Bumfuck, NM, is kind of important.

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