Built 3400 Short Block (for boost) $1,000 + Shippi

[tejohnson]

Entire Long Block SOLD for $1,680.00 shipped.

Pictures of the final build and crated long block can be seen at:

http://groomlakelabs.com/index.php?q=gallery&g2_itemId=3351

Moderator, please lock this thread. Thanks in advance!

[tejohnson]

i was wondering wat head stud kit did u use for the heads on that motor

It's not a "kit". You have to buy the studs, washers, and nuts from ARP:

Ordered directly from ARP (http://www.arp-bolts.com/):
		
ARP-300-8333 (7/16-20, 12 point nut). 10pack, order 2	18.25	36.5
ARP-200-8530 (7/16ID-13/16OD washer). 10pack, order 2	8.13	16.26
ARP-ATP5.400-1LUB (long stud), order 8			11.44	91.52
ARP-ATP4.650-1LUB (short stud), order 8			10.28	82.24
	
								226.52
				15% Discount when I ordered:	(33.97)
				Total:				192.55 + S&H

[malibu_ss]

i was wondering wat head stud kit did u use for the heads on that motor

[tejohnson]

Thanks for providing the insight Ben.

For anyone that is/was following along, there are pictures (hi-res available) in my gallery from quick updates during the build.

[SappySE107]

7k is about as high as you wanna go with hydraulic lifters. The motor itself could be made to make power past 8000 if thats what you wanted. Higher RPM = increased engine wear and tolerances are more critical with higher RPM. I wouldn't say its not worthwhile or possible though.

[malibu_ss]

thnx for the recommedtion for the boost and redline i was wodering because i am having my car tuned and if i get it i want my rev limiter set at that because at 7000rpms in a v6 i think it is more than enough and taking it higher i think it would be useless because correct me if i am worng but at 7000rpm it prolly doesnt have much more range of torque and u risk the motor any faster thnx for ur time agian

[malibu_ss]

hey man thnx i think personally i was blowing the whole crank issue out of up and i am telling u i interested i have to get the money hope it is still around but if not no harm but thnx for taking time to answer a few qeustions/concerns

[SappySE107]

I would run that crank. If you don't trust a bent crank that was fixed, you should look up how cranks are made. They were right in saying to fix it when its been balanced already. Its not cheap but its very important on a high output engine.

[tejohnson]

To multi-post myself

As for getting another crank, I hope it is not due to the concern of what previously happened to this one. My first plan to address it when learning of the damage was to buy another. I was reassured that it was completely unnecessary. And yes, I tend to trust the shop doing the work. Namely since one of the folks, the owner, has set a few NHRA records. I would imagine they know what they are talking about.

If you intend to buy another crank due to this issue alone, then keep in mind the costs for balancing the new one. This one took close to one slug of Mallory, and was balanced on a Hines.

[tejohnson]

sry i didn't do this in one post but i foregot how much boost would u recommend to put to the motor and wat would u suggest to take the motor in rpms i was just wondering how the motor is bulit and if i buy the engine i am not going to hold u responsible with wat u have told me personally i dn't care bout the crank issue i am going to buy a brand new crank anyways
thnx alot

No problem. The engine is built. I am cleaning the oil pan today, and the ARP studs to install either this evening, or later this week. I simply have not updated the pictures on my site, but I have taken a few. There are a few folks that are interested, so I doubt it will be for sale much longer. As for the crank, I think some folks are simply reading way too much into it. If folks really think it is an issue, then I would be curious about how much they intend to throw at it.

For me, my comfort zone was to handle 15 PSI and 7000 RPM max. I would imagine it could do more, but I am a bit paranoid and have my own safety zone. Perhaps others feel differently.

[malibu_ss]

sry i didn't do this in one post but i foregot how much boost would u recommend to put to the motor and wat would u suggest to take the motor in rpms i was just wondering how the motor is bulit and if i buy the engine i am not going to hold u responsible with wat u have told me personally i dn't care bout the crank issue i am going to buy a brand new crank anyways
thnx alot

[malibu_ss]

i was wondering how much shipping is on that motor to kokomo Indiana i have a 99 malibu that needs more power could u please tell how much for shipping
thnx

[tejohnson]

It was bored to 3.642" with a torque plate and ARP studs that will come with the block. I know this is a bit anal, but I even kept the ARP studs and nuts in the same order. It was also honed with the torque plate. On this latest tear down, I used a bottle brush hone for the finish, which everything looked just fine.

If specs are wanted, I listed them on my site. See:

http://groomlakelabs.com/?q=99_3400_engine_mechanical_specifications

I also have the piston job card (on the outside of the box from Ross) in my gallery. I never really had anything to hide.

[malibu_ss]

finished honed

I was wondering if that block is finished honed to the pistons

[tejohnson]

.002

And as stated in the first post, it was bent back to spec, checking for cracks both times. Then journals were turned, hence the different main and rod bearing sizes.

Being concerned when I was first told it was bent, I was ready to buy a new crank and get the entire assembly balanced again. However, I was told there was no need. (they had to talk me out of it) So, when posting this "for sale" thread, I opted for full disclosure. There are even pics of the crank, rods, and all bearings after spinning the #5 at Pontiac Nationals. It is in my "Pontiac Nationals 2006" part of my gallery.