Tuning a 93 3.4 Firebird

[60dgrzbelow0]

Here is an eBay listing that is reasonably priced showing very good visuals of all the components necessary for a single sensor installation and a bit more written information. However...it is NOT showing the quality AC-Delco parts recommended by Mr. Moore:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Walke...item5d275792ce

Here is an actual AC-Delco Heated O2 Sensor listed on eBay... but for the 1994-97 Chevrolet Camaro LT1... I'm not certain this would apply to use on the GM 3,.4L V6 Engine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97...item4a92244f8f

...and last but not least...is another more expensive listing (NGK) that shows everything required...including a three wire connection pigtail harness with a much longer set of 12V (+) and (-) Wires:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heate...item587db4fbff

[robertisaar]

i've never heard of Walker parts before... but when it comes to NB O2's, ACDelco and NGK are the top of my list.

something to note: without tuning, you probably will NEVER enter closed loop faster just by adding a heated O2. reason being: on both the GP and the MC, the O2 is sensed as 'Ready' long before the minimum coolant temp for closed loop is reached. this may not apply to vehicles that have headers or are RWD, but for FWD manifolds, heated O2 for that reason alone is a bad gamble.

EDIT: the monte has a heated O2 stock, but the GP doesn't.

[tkoforpresident]

i've never heard of Walker parts before... but when it comes to NB O2's, ACDelco and NGK are the top of my list.

something to note: without tuning, you probably will NEVER enter closed loop faster just by adding a heated O2. reason being: on both the GP and the MC, the O2 is sensed as 'Ready' long before the minimum coolant temp for closed loop is reached. this may not apply to vehicles that have headers or are RWD, but for FWD manifolds, heated O2 for that reason alone is a bad gamble.

EDIT: the monte has a heated O2 stock, but the GP doesn't.

so your saying once i get the heated o2, i'll have to change some #'s in the .bin to help it get to closed loop faster?

is this the "closed loop timers" that i've read about?

[robertisaar]

yep, those are the timers. if not, it won't enter closed loop any faster. the only benefits you'll see are that it will stay in closed loop once on, and longer O2 life.

[tkoforpresident]

so it pretty much looks like i can get any new Heated o2 sensor and it will work with modification?

Let's say i go into advance auto, which vehicle should i say i need an o2 sensor for? I'd rather just go and get one from there..

then we can look at the wiring and figure out which wires need to go where etc.

I'm HORRIBLE with wiring so i'm gonna need help.

[robertisaar]

well, a 95 MC3100 has a heated O2... that would be a good place to start

the wiring shouldn't be that bad considering that there are at least two guides, at least one with pics, on how to do it.

but some of us are good with wiring anyways

[60dgrzbelow0]

Max... Perhaps someone would humor you with some "cradle to grave" images that trace the wiring from the header insert point of the O2 Sensor... all the way around to the "Hot" (12V (+)..but switchable) connection point.... and what the Hell...maybe they'll throw in a shot of the Ground Wire, too ...after all...when you buy a Piano...Don't they always throw in the Black Keys... for FREE?

[tkoforpresident]

merry Christmas guys...

I'm broke as a joke right now so i'm putting the idea of the "heated o2 sensor" on hold for now. (hey the 3rd gen-ers don't use em either to tune)

I literally have 6$ to my name. But enough of that..

Soon i hope to install the new injectors Bob sent me (if it's not TOO hard), change the oil & filter (k&n gold class ftw), and pour in some fresh gas. Then start to tune based on what we were talking about earlier (setting it to stoich before setting the bpc and changing the fuel pressure.)

but my optimism has been restored because of this!

So i hope to update again soon with progress.

[robertisaar]

good news then, i guess. everyone does make their own path in tuning, i would prefer to use a heated o2 with headers, but you may get good results without. that has yet to be seen.

and by thirdgen: do you mean V6 or just V8? if so, the extra cylinder pumping heat can make quite a difference.

[tkoforpresident]

good news then, i guess. everyone does make their own path in tuning, i would prefer to use a heated o2 with headers, but you may get good results without. that has yet to be seen.

and by thirdgen: do you mean V6 or just V8? if so, the extra cylinder pumping heat can make quite a difference.

hmmmm that is something i didn't consider about the extra cylinder.

btw i have a question about the whole fuel psi/ bpc ratio concept that we talked about earlier. I looked over your response and what i though made sense turned into mashed potatoes in my mind. Can you just play along with me here and we'll punch out some fake #'s together all the way through?

for starters lets say my engine likes 19lb injectors @ 35 psi to get a stoich (or close to ) reading (while using a BPC of 210 in the tune). running it throuch witch hunters calc that equates to ~ 17.0428 lb/hr.

this is where things get hazy.

whats the next step?

[IsaacHayes]

Don't over think it.

[tkoforpresident]

Don't over think it.

i'm not, i'm trying to take this one step at a time.

i realize that you will next find the % difference between the old flow rate and the new flow rate but then i'm not sure what to do with that #

[robertisaar]

the drop of 19lb/hr to 17.0428lb/hr is a 11.48% drop. now just change the BPC by 11.48%.

11.48% lower, in case it gets confusing.

[tkoforpresident]

the drop of 19lb/hr to 17.0428lb/hr is a 11.48% drop. now just change the BPC by 11.48%.

11.48% lower, in case it gets confusing.

ok i see, so i would just put the BPC 11.48% lower in the .bin and then up the fuel pressure to 43.5? that's all there is to it?

[robertisaar]

should be. if not, then something else needs changed.