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Well, the Phantom Grip is not really a LSD, it is simply two blocks of steel with springs that provide a thrust load against the spider gears. Better than an open diff, but not anywhere near as effective as a true clutch or gear LSD. I have a homeade version in my 4-spd, but haven't driven it yet.
The gr8grip looks like a knock-off of the Phantom Grip, but with extra springs and blocks to provide force against all 4 spider gears instead of just two. IMO, looks pretty hoakey, I wouldn't put one in my tranny. Like the Phantom Grip, it relies on the metal-on-metal friction, no clutch plates to provide firction. This metal-on-metal rubbing would concern me if I put any miles on my car.
The Quaife or Torsen gear-type diffs are the most effective at transferring torque on a FWD car, but they are pricey. You could buy three Engineered Performance diffs for the price Mantapart wants for a Torsen.
The Auburn-style diff (not a true Auburn diff) Mantapart sells is just a reworked stock diff, similar to the Engineered Performance unit. They take a stock diff, machine it to fit some clutches, and add some springs and plates to provide preload.
At $500 versus $750, the Engineered Performance gives you the same thing for a lot less money. Not quite as effective as a gear-type diff, but it is very reasonably priced. This one gets my vote, and I plan to buy one for my 5-spd conversion.
Marty
'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:
Originally posted by Aaron
This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
Yeah, I would get a torsen, but Mantapart doesn't any more, and currently has no idea where to get one. As for a Quaife, It would take an order of at least 20!! to get them produced. any takers (yeah, right!). I at least like that they considered the idea however.
Yeah..the Torsen T1's are pretty easy to come by. Did you get yours from SLP? I have thought about buying one just to get the guts from it, and get a FWD carrier made up. I am not sure if the bias ratio from the RWD would be right for a FWD.
The OEM T1 Torsens from the F-bodies aren't very strong when you put much power through them. Mine in my LS-1 stopped working at about 20K miles, and now it is pretty much an open diff. The T2-R verion is supposed to be much more aggressive, and pretty well bulletproof.
Colin (V6 H.O.) has the Getrag EP diff with the street springs in it. He seems to be pretty happy with it.
Marty
'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:
Originally posted by Aaron
This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
Well, I called Torsen today, the guy there knew EXACTLY what i wanted, and promptly knew that they didn't have but a couple original prototypes which were not for sale and won't build any new ones unless there is significant intrest. However i may have a lead on a used torsen, if that falls through, it will be time to order the EP.
I called EP today They quoted me like $575? (didn't write it down), does that sound right?
Torsens in Camaros are T2's. T1's were found in things such as the Hummer.
The T2 is pretty strong in its design. But remember you are making it so small by putting it into a 7.5" package. If it were big like a 9.5" or 10.5" it would rock ass.
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