5 speed swap gone bad...please help!

[3XTurboAgain]

alright im going to bleed it one more time just to be sure, i have adjusted the MC to allow more travel on the pedal. I can hear the fork moving so i know the slave is working maybe its just not enough... Ill try this and update. thanks again.

[bob442]

a bad cable will make hell freez over for a day, and it wont be visable either

[Chris88CL]

Hydraulics. They are a bitch to bleed. Keep bleeding it. When you think it's bled, bleed it again.

[Chris88CL]

Better yet, remove the hydraulics as an assembly and bench bleed it all.

[3XTurboAgain]

Lets make sure im doing this right for a non-bleeder system. remove slave and hold straight up, fill to top... place hydrolic line in brake fluid, have someone cycle the pedal in and out to get air out. When no more bubbles are seen, have a buddy keep the pedal held down and remove the line from brake fluid and insert into the slave...push slave rod back in to push bubbles back through resevoir . Pump a bunch to make sure it self bleeds if any air IS left over. then test drive... hopefully. is that correct?

[3XTurboAgain]

Ok guys, just bled it for the last time... its screwed, i hear a little clicking noise when i push the clutch... guess i have to take it apart real quick.... FAIILLLLL... Im buying another 282 off a friend so if its the tranny or i need a part like the fork or something i wouldnt be screwed. We'll see. thanks again for the help. any other tips or suggestions welcome!

[3XTurboAgain]

OK Update: this is really strange but the clutch works now... I bled it last week for the last time and it didnt seem like it worked... i went out today and noticed... the car goes into gear!!! but if i push the pedal all the way down it wont go into gear. I have to release the pedal about a half inch and it works fine... except reverse grinds bad... but if i start the car already in reverse with the clutch in... its fine, i can engage and disengage the clutch all i want... just wont go in running. I noticed... the guy at the transmission shop who i had look at the car, cut/welded/extended the CMC pushrod about an inch.... he didnt even tell me he did it ...that has to be my problem... not sure about the reverse problem tho. what do you think?

[torq455]

reverse grinds because it doesn't have a syncro ring trying to mesh the gears together while they are spinning. the forward gears don't grind because the syncro ring is preventing the gear from moving into the other gear since it hasn't synchronized with it. if i leave a stick shift in neutral with the clutch out, i will put it in any forward gear before i put it in reverse. this action stops the gears from spinning immediately so reverse won't grind.

if the rod is longer than it's supposed to be, then you'd have either lack of engagement, or slipping. maybe the master cylinder is bad.

[3XTurboAgain]

well fixed the problem, everything works perfect now. I just epoxied a little stopper under the carpet so the pedal doesnt go all the way down, it now goes into gear perfectly and reverse doenst grind at all!! Thanks to everyone this painful swap is officially done! Thank You! Mods feel free to delete!

[1988GTU]

Why didn't you swap the slave/master unit? Fairly easy to do.

[3XTurboAgain]

the CMC/slave are brand new, i didnt use the 5 speed firewall plate and the pedal was short of travel, so the CMC pushrod was extended....it was a little too long but the stopper works perfectly...

[1988GTU]

You do know that there's a little plastic like cap on the end of the slave (rod part that goes into the trans) and it would probably take up that "extra" space causing all your problems?

[3XTurboAgain]

yea your right didnt think of that.. its all good for now tho...im just glad it works and i didnt waste all that time for nothing! My next 5 speed swap ill use the firewall plate to make things easier.

[torq455]

alright! problem solved. enjoy the ride!

[3XTurboAgain]

Awsomeness!