4t60e Performance Rebuild kit.

[TurboGTU]

Ha! Just remember, 1000hp on a lightweight in't jack compared to a 2600+lb car with too much torque on the daily grind. Get the z-pack if you can.

what burns up on the 60 and 60e is the 2nd clutch pack, 3rd pack. Forget 4th, thats just a econo gear. You will toast it with a stock 140hp 3.1l wonder.

The burn marks on your clutches look like they can't hold the power for either not having enough oil pressure or just overpowering it. Did you use a oil pressure guage before taking it apart. Sure does help alot. Using one after makes sure everything is in order after the rebuild. I made one out of a freon high pressure guage and some fittings and plastic 1/4 air hoses made for heavy duty truck air brakes.

Hard parts are the sprags. Just get new ones. ALso the reaction drum. get a new hardened drum (no japan please, get the sonnax if they have it still). Theise are always on load. Toss in a 4th hub too if the spines are nicked. Don't forget to check the oil pump shaft. Check the differential sun gear for pitting. Accumulator piston wear is also a concern. Check the pin and piston ...if you can wiggle the pin, piston and pin are worn out. ALways replace the bushings at the stator shaft, 2nd clutch drum. THise have the most wear. Don't forget not to install the 2nd drum bushings backwards. They have a step to help the teflon seals go in.

Find a new converter for a the latest 4t60e. Those are carbon fiber i belive. I think the 4t45 converter fits too and might have the e3 lining on the converter clutch (don't have books with me). Your converter problem sounds like your lining broke up. Had several 4L60es come to the shop like this. New converter always fix it along with valve body fixes,cross leaks. Glad your taking care of the valve body. People always over look it. Did you do the air test for cross leaks? Don't forget to check clearance on the packs. Too little and they will drag and burn up...especially if there is a cross leak. Over torqueing the valvebody and pump will also cause cross leaks as it wil warp. Investing in a in lbs torque wranch is a good invesment.

Good luck, keep us updated.

[3400-95-Modified]

Yes they need a pre-soak period. Which I will be starting this weekend.

Just think of it as jumping on the horse before she is ready to ride... don't work so well, if you know what I mean...

[60dgrzbelow0]

Mr. Pink...

Jonathan... is it true that those clutch disks must be pre-soaked for a good amount of time to sort of pre-condition them B4 installation and final assembly?...something about..."...bone dry plates will shred if they are not soaked in automatic transmission fluid prior to assembly..."...???

[3400-95-Modified]

what ones were using before.

OE Tan ones... the same ones that were in this trans when I did the build in 08, which now show signs of heat on the input set... so yeah I think the reds should help quite a bit.

[geldartb]

oh ok cool. i thought you used these clutches before.

what ones were using before.

[3400-95-Modified]

it should be night and day. your building it like you did the other one right.

Valve body wise yes, but clutch wise, No... I've never used these Stage 1's before so thats another upgrade over what I have done in the past.

[geldartb]

well that is misinformation. cant call something full and leave stuff out.
that would be like me selling a car saying its running not telling the person it doesnt have an engine.

you got spares now. it should be night and day. your building it like you did the other one right.

the 60/65 hyrbid sounds good. maybe next year.

[3400-95-Modified]

Yeah I only got the other parts because I said I was missinformed which they did really... they did not specify if it came with steels or not and just called it "full"

I got the rest of the parts today with all three bands... I did not expect all three, but what the hey, I already had one that was only 10 bux from TPUSA so I'll just hold on to it.

I'm hoping this build is a night and day difference from my last build.

Only person I would send my trans to would be Jeff at EP so he could do his 60e/65e hybrid. I do not know how to do that and I've been told some parts need to be modified to fit, so I'm not getting that deep.

[geldartb]

at least once i get this done i wont have to worry about it blowing up.
id hope you would never have to send your trans out to anyone.

i love how they use bulletproof alot. they manipulate people by using bulletproof 18 billion times.

you did get them to send you all the other parts too.

ill find out what other stuff needs updating and go from there.

[3400-95-Modified]

The blues are better than the stage 1's so yes I can understand why that was recommended. And yeah I read those posts about Level 10 and thats what made me leary after I bought the kit, and then was reinforced when I got it... Really I just used them as a middle man to get Raybestos parts, so at least I didnt send them a trans to do and got back who knows what.

[geldartb]

didnt even notice that when i was looking before. it had that listed under the general clutches page which shows every available clutch and steels.

but the thing i posted above is under the friction and steel modules. ill email to double check and see if they can give me a break down of whats in the kit.

oh and it actually costs $234. i just threw a rough number up earlier.
i just got back with the trans i picked up. didnt pay alot since i was gonna go through it anyway.

i was only going by what others had discovered and the blue ones were what was recommended back in a post from 2002. http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showt...t=4t45+rebuild post 189 page 10 is where the numbers were listed. even back in 2002 level 10 was a shitty place.

i should start my own thread so i do kill this one.

[3400-95-Modified]

No your right, I didnt know it was categorized differently than the 60e side. Mine that i see listed as 150 is ONLY under clutch modules section not one that says w/steels

They aparently make the Input clutches in Blue form for the 60e as well, BUT I cant seem to find them anywhere...

And I was told by a Raybestos rep that I probably do not need the 3rd ZPak unless I'm running a 1000HP engine... LOL

[geldartb]

well it looks like the last thing i posted for $220 contains the steels.

ill email them to double check.

[3400-95-Modified]

Unless specified Friction Modules do not contain the steels... don't get confused like I did on that one.

[geldartb]

that's the numbers i came up with searching the grand am sites and they match up with the pdf you posted. as far as steels and other stuff i have no clue i cant find anything but ill search those sites more.

once the trans is rebuilt with the blue plates i haven't heard or read of anyone breaking one.

forward R577810
second R577820
direct R577850
coast R577830
low reverse R577800
reverse R577840

those are raybestos part numbers and from looking at the pdf it looks like they use the AXIOM part number.

found this but is it the whole set of clutches and steels. they have it listed for $223
14119AHP Friction Module, 4T40E(High Perf, Blue Plate)1995-Up