hmm well maybe I will contact the track I run at to see how fast it needs to kill the car. fuel pump would be a lot easier, if it needs to be killed at WOT Im sure I have more to worry about than an engine lol
kill switch
Collapse
X
-
You could just read the NHRA general regulations too... It sums it up and answers it.
It needs to shut the car off as well as fully de-energize everything... So betterthanyou no its not meant for is regular on off switch that's NOT what i was recommending... My point is it can NOT support the rating of the alternator so he can't use it as it was "designed" by Moroso to interrupt the batt and alternator signal, but he can use that switch to interrupt the ignition wire rather than the alternator wire so not only will the vehicle loose battery power but the ignition wire will be de-energized as well shutting down the ECU allowing the engine to stop.8:4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class
Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be
installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily
accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be
connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must
stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off
position must be clearly indicated with the word “OFF.” If switch is
“push/pull” type, “push” must be the action for shutting off the
electrical system, “pull” to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to
activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch diameter. Plastic or
keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be
located behind rear wheels on rear-engine dragsters.
Without doing that the engine will stay running, TRUST ME I disconnected by battery one time to shut down the car after locking they keys in it and it didnt stop running. I had to unplug the fuel injector harness.
If you READ my instructions fully you would see I was NOT saying to eliminate what his key does but to just put this switch inline between the key's IGN power source and the key itself, OR right after the key to what it powers so it will interrupt that signal and CAN ACT as turning the key off.Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 09-28-2012, 09:26 AM.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
Comment
-
I downloaded the rule book on my phone a few months back and couldnt find that for the life of me lol. but thank you, that looks pretty set in stone to mesigpic
88 Beretta CL- 13.641@102.76mph (rwd LS1/t56 conversion in progress)
77 Celica GT- 3400/3500 swap in progress (engine from the beretta)
Comment
-
That or the ignition wire, one or the other. It's his choice but he has to break something to kill the alternator from making power, OR kill the whole computer control system.Originally posted by betterthanyou View PostYou don't have to handle the current of the alt you can just break the exciter wire and it will be dead.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
Comment
-
It is for emergencies, but they will ensure that it works properly during tech inspection. As stated, it'll need to kill the engine rather quickly, so disabling the fuel pump isn't the best option. I recommend "killing" the ICM or alt exciter as recommended by jon.Originally posted by betterthanyou View PostWTF. The kill switch is outside the car and is for EMERGENCIES.You may or may not know 10 times what i do.
ASE Master certified. Just means I can take tests. GM ASEP Graduate.
95' Z26, ported/cammed 3400/3500, OBD2, 282, T3T4. Boxes almost all empty..
Comment

Comment