Home Made Fuel Injector Cleaning Machine

[pocket-rocket]

The shape of it tells me resistor, but I could be wrong. I do see it gets skinnier in the center, which is why I think it's a resistor. Have you followed the traces to see if it's the resistor for the Power LED? If it is, you wouldn't have to be exact in value of the replacement. More ohms for a dimmer LED, less for a brighter one.

[Azrael]

Are you sure it's a resistor and not a diode? The silk-screening on the PCB under the component will say for sure. If it's "Rxx" then it's a resistor. "Dxx" would be a diode. Either way you'll need to find the value of it somehow if you're going to replace it.

[pocket-rocket]

Out of the thousands who looked in on this thread, only three people had Balls as Big as Church Bells on this forum to chime in and chide me...or encouraged me. And because they did... they stimulated my thinking with disagreement and often coming up with better ideas on how some of "The FrankInjector" could evolve by offering their help along the way. So these Men own a piece of its design and own pieces of the puzzle that it was to design and make functional and so they deserve credit and recognition for helping to make this machine into something...Real... They are identified as follows:

Robertisaar
Superdave
pocket-rocket

Thank You Gentlemen... I appreciate what happened here on this forum that made the difference in what was I thought this machine would be in the beginning...and how it kept getting better with each and every suggestion and interaction from them. I'm grateful for this help.

Does this mean if this goes to a mass produced piece of equipment, I get royalties?

[robertisaar]

can't see where the traces are going.... not sure if it's just to step down the voltage for the LED or what.

[60dgrzbelow0]

odd... so the resistor for the LED blew up? or is it for another component?

I'm not certain of what or why this burned...it is just adjacent the LED Lamp on the circuit board...and quite toasty as well... Speaking of "Roasted" The Lil Woman beckons me to "The Bird"...LOL Be back shortly... (Danny Devito used to say that...)

[robertisaar]

odd... so the resistor for the LED blew up? or is it for another component?

[60dgrzbelow0]

Uh Ohhhh... (Whoops)

So the TIF Model 357EFI EFI Tester that I grabbed off of eBay for a mere $29.00 arrived today...and so I thought I would just wipe it down and plug in a few Rochester Multechs into several of the eight EFI connectors. Lo and behold... when I connected the two 12 Volt Power Leads up to the adapted ATX Computer Power Supply...(correct polarity, mind you)... The Power Light came on the unit for about a second or two...and then I heard a snapping spark... and suddenly ...acrid smoke started pouring out from around the switch block. DAMMIT! So I killed the power and tore the unit apart and saw that adjacent to the single Red LED area...there was a tiny resistor that was fried blacker than last years BBQ Grill. I suppose I could R&R the resister if I could read the color codes on the unit. If I shoot some images and post them here... do you suppose that there might be somebody with a clue as to how I might UNF*CK myself with this handy little testing tool and do the repair? The Base MOBO of the unit is very sturdy and the soldering side is easy to work on. I am very puzzled as to why it went up in smoke so easily because it is designed to hook directly up to a Car Battery...and with only 12 Volts @ 5 Amps coming out of the ATX PS... I can't imagine that it would have harmed the unit versus using a Car Battery with over 600 Cold Cranking AMPS available to power up the damned thing. Anybody?

[60dgrzbelow0]

Okeedoke...

Yes... I know it was a bit formal...But without knowing whether he understands the difference between a favor between friends...and sharing my personal information with every Swinging D*ck in the Free World about... "Say.... Guess what I just got done to my EFIs for FREEEE....!!!"...Then I would wind up with UPS, FEDEX and USPS Delivery Trucks lined up like Freight Cars leading from my house all the way down to the highway trying to deliver EFIs UP THE YIN-YANG... Know what I mean?... Whereas.... You...and I... are Friends. So send them 19lb Bad Boys any time you like... By the way...if the ones I sent you do NOT work out... I'll get you a set of Stock Ones if you need them instead! No Worries... The 19lbrs will be returned when and if they are as ...Clean as Kleenex!

[tkoforpresident]

lol Bob, you sure are formal hahah. Just covering your a$$, i know i know...

Thanks again for the favor, I've been helping carl out from time to time as he's been calling me (long distance) about his 3.4 car troubles, in fact thats really the only way i know him hahah (some kind of relationship huh?... oh wait, that sounds a lot like you and me! )

anyhow, i'll be installing the injectors you sent me asap and then sending you my 19lb injectors to dick around with and/or keep if these new ones work as well as i know they should.

max

[60dgrzbelow0]

Just heard from him, he says' he will take the set. I gave him your email addy so you guys can hammer out the details, expect an email shortly from him.

max

Okay Max... Received Carl's Message and replied with an echo to you...

[60dgrzbelow0]

A Stalking Horse ...Wins the Race...

As you all know...the original start of this thread concerned my difficulty in finding the electronic means to actuate and control a bank of Six (6) EFIs in such a manner as to evenly control the flow of fuel through each of them and manage to activate and stimulate them to show their strengths and weaknesses and point the way to taking remedial action. While trying to find the appropriate tool for this purpose, I had to settle on using Dual OTC Fuel Injector Testers because using only one OTC Device was insufficient in the power and amperage to symmetrically control more than Three EFIs at any given time. But recently... I stumbled on a device on eBay that I thought might be the perfect solution to the problem... and perhaps even offer more ways to improve the testing procedures.


For the past Four Days... I've been following the progress of that TIF EFI Tester on eBay and this evening... I managed to "lurk" on it until about 1:40 secs prior to the end of the offering ...and grab it for $29.00 + S&H. Now I'm not certain if my next observation will be well received... because I don't know how many people there are that have the certain knowledge I am about to reveal as it concerns:

How to BID and WIN ALMOST every time on eBay:

For those who regularly shop on eBay and know all the ropes as to how to maximize their chances of winning... Forgive me this explanation on behalf of those here who may not. I only know about this because I found out how the process works entirely by accident. The situation involved our need for a new Central Air Conditioning Air Handler Ferris Wheel Blower...and of course this item I found was the only one of its kind and shortly to be gone as the offer had only an hour or so before ending. Long story short... I was so completely determined to get that damned air impeller that I bid an outrageous amount while sitting in a house in the middle of June in the sweltering heat. Well...longer story foreshortened ...I won the item in question... but NOT at the price I was willing to pay that may have been three times its actual value ... but at the price that was offered by the NEXT TO THE LAST BIDDER... which was better for me in so many ways... and which left me completely astonished.

Puzzled that perhaps I would eventually be billed for the balance of what I had offered...I waited for almost a week until I realized that this must really be the way to win on eBay... and not take it in the neck while trying to fend off all the "Great Unwashed Heathens" trying to beat me out of the things I need. It follows that I gave this a try on several other occasions where the bidders were quite numerous and the competition hot and heavy to win. I came to the understanding soon after that there really are only two important tactics in making this work:

(1) Wait until under Two Minutes before making your presence known... any sooner and all you will do is throw more blood into the water and invite the bid price to climb even higher.

(2) Then...When you finally make your move... move boldly... if you really want to win... don't try to do it by halves or fractions ...make your offer at least twice or even three times what you think the item is worth...and let the Beaters chase their tails and try to catch you as the clock rapidly ticks down to Zero. In the end you will win the item at whatever the LAST BID PRIOR TO YOUR BID IS.

That is all there is to it. It's not a perfect system because there is always another "Lurker" out there who is keener and more determined than you are who might win over your biggest bid on occasion. And by "Lurking instead of Leaping" right up until the Last Two Minutes...if the bidding amongst the others does manage to raise the price too high....then let them have it...and wait for the next BBD (Bigger and Better Deal) to come along. But most of the time... these tactics work and will succeed. I hope this is useful information and serves to help others save money and get the items they require. Best of Luck to All!


And now to the images of this device (My First, Last and Best Offer by the way...was $150.00). I've included an image of the ASNU EFI Machine to show as contrast to "The FrankInjecter" Machine... It is a splendid money maker for "The Big Boys"... But they won't be getting One Red Cent ...from me!

When this device arrives... I will plug the harness into "The FrankInjector" Machine and see what it is capable of doing...

[60dgrzbelow0]

Okeedoke...

[tkoforpresident]

Max... I'm still waiting for a response to my last email to you... RSVP when you get a minute so I know how to proceed.

Just heard from him, he says' he will take the set. I gave him your email addy so you guys can hammer out the details, expect an email shortly from him.

max

[60dgrzbelow0]

Max... I'm still waiting for a response to my last email to you... RSVP when you get a minute so I know how to proceed.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Bob, this is all very very helpful information!

I see now that it will not be half as difficult as removing the whole intake plenum with the fuel rail "nestled inside like a new born babe".

With this in mind i cannot tell you how happy i am to have a fresh set of injectors waiting to be installed that are cleaned up, spraying perfect (thanks to you), and at a good lb/hr rating that will hopefully satisfy my needs.

and good news, i already have an extinguisher thanks to my prior "cam break in" procedures lol

Oh yes... I remember my "Camshaft Break-In Procedures" list... Do you think I should find a place to post it on the forum? Perhaps later as a write up...