I don't think Radio Shack still has repair technicians. None of the employees at the last 5 Radio Shacks I visited knew the difference between a resistor and a diode. They're just pushy cell phone salespeople now. In typical form, one girl insisted on helping me find a part and then asked me "how do you spell 'resistor?'" I doubt any of the people there are going to be able to help you. They probably couldn't even point you to the right books that would help you.
But I think Hoys can fill in the gaps I left. Try an IRF510 and 1N4001 for the driver. Heat sink the IRF510 and you can probably drive 4 injectors off the same MOSFET.
What I'm putting together has a continuous mode where it's free-running and you can turn a knob to control the frequency. I did away with variable duty-cycle, though, and fixed it at 50%. I've yet to see any utility in varying the duty-cycle for this application. It's the pulse-width that matters. Anyway, it can be reconfigured in software if we later discover a need for it.
Still waiting for my cylinders to come in. I never got a tracking number or shipping confirmation and my inquiry to the company has gone unanswered. Assuming they were shipped, I'm expecting arrival some time this week. I just painted some rusty headers. I don't have a sandblaster so I used electrolysis to clean the rust. I'd recommend giving that method a try to anyone with rusted parts. Check it out over here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...val-aka-Magic/ I got the best results with an overnight soak in the bucket. The rust mostly flakes off. What's left turns to a soft black residue that can be rubbed off with soapy water and a scotch brite pad. Kinda fits with our theme of mixing electricity and chemistry to clean car parts

What I wouldn't give for a 48-hour day or the ability to survive comfortably on only 2 hours sleep....





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