Home Made Fuel Injector Cleaning Machine

[60dgrzbelow0]

...you could modify a computer power supply for it. I have considered it before, and happen to have an extra one that pushes more than enough power for something like this...

...using a computer power supply would work great. They are regulated very well. If it's an ATX power supply, just cut the big white plug off the end and use one Yellow and one Black as your leads to the injector testers (Yellow is +12v and Black is ground)... then find the Green Wire and connect it to one of the Black Wires to turn the supply on...

Based on these sterling recommendations, I rifled through a half-dozen ATX Power Supplies until I found one that suited my needs and provided the most consistent and highest DC Voltage possible. I took Superdave's information on the wiring hook-ups... but did not want to permanently FUBAR the PS by completely cutting off the 24 Pin Male Motherboard Wire Connector. Instead...to put an electrical load on the ATX internal sensing mechanism, I just sliced a piece of S/S Flat Banding material to the right thickness for insertion inside the connector matrix (Green to any Black) and pre-wrapped it with some Black Electrician's Tape to make a sort of handle for its insertion and removal as needed. Then I just depressed the metal tabs inside the longest Molex lead on the harness and pulled out one Black and one Yellow wire set. Then I simply hooked up my Actron Multi-Meter to the proper (+) and (-) leads and matched these to the Black and Red 12Volt Squeeze clamps on the OTC Unit (Black to Black- Red to Yellow). The OTC Unit powered up just fine... but I noticed that the Red Power Light was particularly bright and strong, so I took some encouragement from this that the ATX PS had it all over the cheap 12Volt - 1 Amp "TOP" Power Supply that I described in one of my photo-bucket videos. The ACTRON Multi-Meter read as 11.91 Volts when stable and dropped to 11.85 Volts when activating the Fire Button on the OTC. (I don't know what the implications of that voltage drop are...please explain if you think it might be a problem).

Next, I decided to attach BOTH of the Three Connector EFI sets I'd made to work with one OTC Unit for each bank of EFIs on "The Frankinjector" Machine and connected them to a single OTC Testing Unit. After attaching all of the six (6) EFI connectors to one set of recently cleaned and flushed out injectors (stock 93-95 VIN "S" Injectors), I depressed the OTC Fire Button and to my very great surprise, they all fired...symmetrically loud and and consistent in their response to being actuated by only the one OTC. If I had suspected that my problem was based on a power drop off, I would never have purchased the second OTC Unit to "divide and conquer" this problem. But nonetheless, my weakness in understanding the implications of electricity have been revealed and in this case, bought and paid for on the steep learning curve. All that remains for this portion of the system upgrade is to do this identical test on "The Frankinjector" with a the system pressurized at 43.5 PSI and the binary cleaning fluid flowing as the OTC tries to work alone to get all six EFIs to fire and function during the cleaning cycle.

The latest images and one new video can be found here on this part of the project:

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

My sincere thanks to Robert and Dave for the leg-up on getting this done... Your ATX Computer Power Supply Solution... Works GREAT!

[60dgrzbelow0]

^ that is awesomeness.

Thank You, Robert...! (The Crowd goes WILD!)

[robertisaar]

^ that is awesomeness.

[60dgrzbelow0]

using a computer power supply would work great. they are regulated very well. If it's an ATX power supply just cut the big white plug off the end and use one yellow and one black as your leads to the injector testers (Yellow is +12v and black is ground).. then find the green wire and connect it to one of the black wires to turn the supply on.

Thanks Dave... (and Robert (Robertisaar) too for the original suggestion...)

You could modify a computer power supply for it. I have considered it before, and happen to have an extra one that pushes more than enough power for something like this...

I have great news to report that segues nicely with your original prediction that the 12V 1 Amp Power Supply might not be sufficient when two OTCs are sharing the DC input line. Your prediction was exactly correct. In the course of testing first the single OTC with just three EFIs during the initial Submergence Test to see if the EFI Connectors would short out...they sealed PERFECTLY!... but as you suggested...when I hooked up both OTC Units and dunked all six (6) EFIs and tried to power them simultaneously...the collision lights on both units flickered and the sound of the injectors' pintle valves seemed to labor a great deal while actuating. Having either two separate Yellow/Black connections for each of the OTC units would be the perfect solution...and since I have a handful of older 300-350 Watt ATX Power Supplies...modifying one to work with your idea will do the trick for the next round of using the Dual OTC devices in any/all phases of these cleaning procedures! Thanks again, Gentlemen for coming up with this idea!

PLEASE TURN DOWN THE VOLUME CONTROL ON YOUR COMPUTERS WHEN WATCHING THE LATEST VIDEOS!

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

The UMAX Machine makes such an incredible racket that it over-rides most of what I was explaining...but it becomes more understandable with the sound turned down.


Now...I am happy to report that while sunk deep in a very hot bath of "Purple Power" and while being "juiced and induced" to fire the pintles on all six of the latest batch of EFIs for this test... all the equipment functioned PERFECTLY and the in-dwelling Weather-Water seals on each EFI connector worked as designed by GM. You will see from the photos on my photo-bucket site that I first investigated using a small, plastic container, inverted and punctured to allow just the two-prong connector bodies to poke up through the top. But when the OTCs worked after I accidentally pushed the whole apparatus under the cleaning fluid in the EUMAX tub...and they did NOT short out... I realized I could dispense with this idea entirely and had room then to comfortably submerge all six injectors! By the way... The EUMAX UltraSonic Machine only ran me $58.00 on sale and reduced from $89.00 from an eBay Vendor... I use it for cleaning a lot of parts, bolt sets, etc. ..and it will do a helluva lot more jobs than just cleaning fuel injectors!

It only took a one thirty minute session with the EUMAX Ultrasonic Machine to liven these grungy, dirty and clogged injectors up. Shortly ... I will put them through their paces on "The Frankinjector" machine to see how they look while the EFI Cleaning Solution is flushing through them. It will follow on that I'll do "EFI Fluid Balance" test into the graduated cylinders and I will post the videos of these last two stages so you can observe the outcomes of these two comprehensive cleaning procedures. In the mean time...I'm interested in everyone's impressions about all this and still ready for any criticism(s) to be levied if I missed anything or if there is a better way for any of this to be done.

The last thing that remains is the "Reverse Flushing" procedures to work out and test using the newly designed "Rotating Fuel Rail" to perform this task. After that... I think this project will be complete...and the thread can be closed as needed... Unless of course...more and better ideas come on board! I have an open mind and will alter whatever needs to be done to make this a "Better Mousetrap". Actually...now that this has proven to work...the VERY last thing to do is to cobble together a full set of (6) Injectors that are as closely Flow Balanced as I can get them...and to put them into the car when the re-built motor is finally in place....and then just..."Faaaaahhhhhrrr Thaaaat Muuuuthahhh Up!"

[Superdave]

using a computer power supply would work great. they are regulated very well.


If it's an ATX power supply just cut the big white plug off the end and use one yellow and one black as your leads to the injector testers (Yellow is +12v and black is ground).. then find the green wire and connect it to one of the black wires to turn the supply on.

[60dgrzbelow0]

I snapped some images because I was curious if anyone has even seen this kind of early model Fuel Rail with that odd side port in it...Just curious to know what makes/models use this feature...and for what reason...

Never mind on this "Q"...I found the dope on this item... (image)

[60dgrzbelow0]

Because of the suggestions here that the power supply might not be delivering enough "punch" to the EFI coils... I went back to take another look at the second video I shot on "Fluid Balance Test #5" trying to explain why the fluid in the cylinders seemed to be "staircasing" evenly upward as you move the view from the front to the back of the rail. I thought it might be from some kind of pressure draw or imbalance inside the rail itself...but now I'm wondering if it is not all due to the OTCs being designed to test single injectors...rather than three at a pop as I am making them do. The ideas about having a stronger Power Supply and higher amperage... how would that affect the performance of the dual OTC units? Of course I had this crazy notion that it might have something to do with the differential length of the wires in the EFI Harness (Crazy...right?) but then I realized that with only a foot and half to travel...the electric current can move about the length of a un-sharpened No.2 pencil in a pico-second... so I threw out that stupid notion... but it must be the way the juice is acting IN the line has to be a factor here somehow in which injector is getting the best of the power... Yes?

[60dgrzbelow0]

you could modify a computer power supply for it. i have considered it before, and happen to have an extra one that pushes more than enough power for something like this...

On the subject of modifying a 12V/5V Computer Power Supply...I've got a large cardboard box filled with them somewhere around here... LOL

This problem I'm having with "Basic Electricity" has not affected my abilities, however, to build and fix computers (going back even to the days of the original 8086 Microprocessor at a SCREAMING 4.77 Mhz...)

I have five systems running in the house serving one purpose or another...all built from scratch and running either Windows 2000 Professional or Redhat Linux (Fedora . I've also been getting (stealing?) three or four IBM ThinkPad A31-A31P Business Class machines a few pieces at a time off eBay and they are all like having good Mules... Not very pretty...but they work hard and have so much flexibility... But unlike the Mules...you don't have to hit them between the eyes with 2"X4" soaked in motor oil to fix them... They fix real good...

[60dgrzbelow0]

...or why not buy something like this? I have a car stereo hooked up and a scanner; although mine is a 13.8v 3amp model from Radio Shack.

I've had this thing for a good 10yrs with just the scanner hooked up. It doesn't get used much but it doesn't have a problem with both the radio and the scanner running.

http://www.etronics.com/p-23879-pyramid-ps-7kx-regulated-12v-5amp-power-supply.aspx?dp=22C24272E6020253D38363F3A3571373637323232303

but i did modify a laptop power adapter supply unit to power the off-board unit i built to flash pcm's out of the car.

Thanks for this information... a match to Superdave's specs and comments...but your highlighted reference alludes to diminished performance with a weaker PS ...I'm just trying to understand how that would translate to the six EFIs and so I am wondering how they act when the PS is insufficient...what would the symptoms be across the array of injectors using the two wires that leads into the stock EFI Harness? What should I be looking for in the way of problems. Also... this more powerful and stable PS...at well over 12 Volts...Will the Dual OTCs be sort of "over heating"...or what can I expect? Those twin devices represent the most expensive part of the machine...and obviously the most critical to how well it performs repetitive cleaning episodes. Would photos of their insides give some clues as to what they are doing...or not doing? (without any intention to violate any patents on their proprietary designs...of course...)

This thread originated because I really wasn't kidding when I said that me and electrical issues have never been on equitable terms... so now that the conversation has gone from the theoretical side over the last week or so into the making something that really works, my understanding of the consequences will go a long way toward keeping me out of trouble and ruining both OTC Testing Units.

Also... Am I remembering correctly that you are a former GM Tech employee? I seem to recall some threads where your input threaded the GM needles more often than not with the correct solutions.

[geldartb]

or why not buy something like this. i have a car stereo hooked up and a scanner. although mines a 13.8v 3amp model from radio shack.

ive had this thing for a good 10yrs with just the scanner hooked up. it doesnt get used much but it doesnt have a problem with both the radio and the scanner running.

http://www.etronics.com/p-23879-pyramid-ps-7kx-regulated-12v-5amp-power-supply.aspx?dp=22C24272E6020253D38363F3A3571373637323232303

but i did modify a laptop power adapter supply unit to power the off-board unit i built to flash pcm's out of the car.

[robertisaar]

you could modify a computer power supply for it. i have considered it before, and happen to have an extra one that pushes more than enough power for something like this...

[60dgrzbelow0]

you should switch to a better power supply, a 12V 5A unit is dirt cheap and will last longer.

Dave... is it something I can search for by Brand Name/ Model etc.. Perhaps on eBay? By the way...I'll try and shoot some live video of the cleaning of those gnarly EFIs... just to see if I can capture the changes they go though from start to finish and have the means to visually compare the differences when they are fully cleaned again.

[Superdave]

you should switch to a better power supply, a 12V 5A unit is dirt cheap and will last longer.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Okay...The "Under $10.00" set of EFIs, Fuel Rail w/feed lines and Complete Wiring Harness came in just now. I snapped some images because I was curious if anyone has even seen this kind of early model Fuel Rail with that odd side port in it...Just curious to know what makes/models use this feature...and for what reason. The other idea here is to show that it is possible to get some of the primary components/parts and pieces that have gone into building this prototype machine without dropping too much coin down the drain. I'm puzzled as to why there is so much attention being paid to this project by "The Lurkers" with so little feedback on what their thoughts are. Now to paraphrase Slim Pickens as Major T.J."King" Kong in Dr. Strangelove, "I've been to World's Fair, a Picnic and a Rodeo..." and I've had my ass whipped a time or two in my day... and given back more than I ever got, so I can take the honest criticism if it needs to come my way. Don't be shy, Folks... Jump right in...

[60dgrzbelow0]

The other OTC EFI TESTER just arrived and I attached one Multech EFI to each one to see how these units behave in tandem. I shot two videos just now that give a better performance impression than this paragraph can explain. Please note that I managed to get both to work off of a single, 12 Volt 110 AC Power Supply that I have been using for just the one OTC Box on all of the video posts done so far. Here is the latest link to the newest stuff...

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/