3500 Upper FPR clearance

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  • whitelightnin04MC
    • Nov 2006
    • 159

    #1

    3500 Upper FPR clearance

    I've been reading a few threads, and I was pretty sure that I was going to have to grind down the neck on the Upper to clear the FPR, but I found a couple of threads with some other information. I plan to still use the plenum spacers and was wondering if I absolutely need the FPR adapter that is sold in the store. If it makes the jab that much easier, then I'd rather have it. I'm hoping to have the upper installed before the end of the month and I really want to make sure I'm not leaving anything out.

    Thanks in advance,
    Brian
  • PCGUY112887
    • Feb 2006
    • 1067

    #2
    Doesn't seem like you would need anything else if you were using plenum spacers?
    SpudFiles
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    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

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    • whitelightnin04MC
      • Nov 2006
      • 159

      #3
      I was going off of this thread:
      http://60degreev6.com/showthread.php...light=3500+FPR

      With these pictures:
      http://60degreev6.com/sappyse107/3500TESFPRsetup

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      • Superdave
        Been there, Built that.
        • Sep 2004
        • 5850

        #4
        I'll see if i can get some pics of how i modified my FPR to clear the plenum..


        I'm not using spacers but i bet it would work just as good...
        Past Builds;
        1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
        1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
        Current Project;
        1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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        • whitelightnin04MC
          • Nov 2006
          • 159

          #5
          Thanks dave, I appreciate it. Pictures always help. I'm looking for different ways to get it done, but I don't mind buying the adapter if I have to.

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          • Chris88CL
            Moderator
            • Dec 2003
            • 212

            #6
            I didnt need to grind anything and I didnt use any spacers.

            I just undid the bracket bolt, rotated the FPR slightly and bolted it back up.

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            • IsaacHayes
              Mr. Orange.
              • Apr 2006
              • 6030

              #7
              Chris, did it leak any or did you take it out and put new o-ring and lube?
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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              • ForcedFirebird
                Live life 3.7mi at a time
                • Jan 2007
                • 4555

                #8
                I just checked a 3400 fuel rail on my 3500 top end and it's tight, but clears. I just sent off a 3400 top end, so I don't have it to compare to. Either way, you can put an aftermarket FPR in the return line if it is a problem.
                Links:
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                • whitelightnin04MC
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 159

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Chris88CL View Post
                  I didnt need to grind anything and I didnt use any spacers.

                  I just undid the bracket bolt, rotated the FPR slightly and bolted it back up.
                  That's just it. I have the plenum spacers, which I still plan on using in conjunction with the 3500 Upper. This causes the hat on the FPR to be in the way of the plenum neck.

                  Either way, I've got some options. I've got the adapter from Ben and I also have the pictures from Superdave which show how to mod the FPR bracket to make it work.

                  Comment

                  • Chris88CL
                    Moderator
                    • Dec 2003
                    • 212

                    #10
                    No I didnt have any leakage issues. I ALWAYS use new O-rings anytime I take apart the fuel system. If the injectors come out, they get new O-rings too. $5 in O-rings is a worthwhile investment. Engine fires SUCK.

                    I think even with the spacers my regulator would clear. I understand what you are saying though. Maybe I have a factory freak, I dunno. I havent had any issues in about 7,000 km's of driving it like this.

                    Maybe it's an L-body thing. I'd get pictures but the engine is completely disassembled and most of it is at the machine shop at the moment.

                    Comment

                    • IsaacHayes
                      Mr. Orange.
                      • Apr 2006
                      • 6030

                      #11
                      Yeah I put new injector o-rings in. And don't take them out when I don't need to (LIMG just leave the fuel rail on the LIM). But the fuel line disconnect by the firewall I never changed and they never leaked. I heard the FPR was known for leaking if you mess with it so I was wondering on that. I bet it will be hard telling the parts store you need an o-ring for that... probably have to bring it in to match up.

                      It could be an L body thing, I think from the pictures I've seen some FPR brackets look different on older/newer 3x00's. Or either just showing more or less of it in the pictures. Not sure.
                      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                      Original L82 Longblock
                      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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