Valve Spring Removal?

[zofo61]

I bought a valve spring compress tool(lever) and want to know if there are any tricks to this before I screw something up. I have never done this so all input is appreciated. Pictures help as well.........anyone?

Thanks

Chris

[ForcedFirebird]

I don't like the lever type, never had good luck with them. The c-clamp syle is a little more expensive, but has better control. I've seen the c-clamp style at PepBoys for less than $40.

[El_Diablo]

got my craftsman "C-clamp" style for $20 plus tax, mine was actually free cuz my gf bought it for me for an early birthday gift

[zofo61]

Thats great.............I may look into that style as well....I figured out the lever and it works but its a pain cause the 3500 rocker stud is rather small...........hmmmmm.....anyway, not that difficult....and there was no blood shed as well..........goood times

[3100 MPFI]

are you doing the valve springs with the heads on the car, or off?

If the heads are on the car, you will need an aircompressor and fitting to hold the valve up. Otherwise, your valve will drop down into the engine.

If the heads are off the car, then you are good to go.

You will also want a little magnet to get the keepers off of the retainer. Just makes it a little easier.

[ForcedFirebird]

If the heads are on the car, you will need an aircompressor and fitting to hold the valve up. Otherwise, your valve will drop down into the engine.

You can also feed 1/4" rope into the chamber through the spark plug hole, and turn the motor over to have the rope hold up the valves. Just make sure you leave some sticking out to get it out when you are finished

[zofo61]

Motor is on a stand and the lever tool is a biatch. i am going to get the C clamp type when I put them back together with the LS6 springs. Any thoughtson seals and why do some shim the bottom of the spring?

[johnnymossville]

With the LS6 springs you will have to run seals such as 2.2l ohv chevy ('91-'92) seals that have a smaller outside diameter than the stock seals because the LS6 springs won't fit over the stock ones. You will need to run seats so the springs won't eat up the head and the stock seats are part of the valve seal. Check out this thread because there are a couple of places posted to buy the seats at a good price.
http://www.60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=38539
I believe they are LS6 seats and that you will have to grind out the center slightly so the seat will fit over the valve guide.

[19Cutlass94]

yeah the LS6 seats you will have to bore them out to fit.

[zofo61]

There you go ...........glad I asked.........You guys are the shizle

[El_Diablo]

shouldn't be hard to modify the shims if you have a drill press

[zofo61]

Dont have a press but I am pretty darn good with a drimmel. I got the clamp-style valve spring tool today at Sears and man what a difference a tool makes. The lever is going back in the morning for sure. Will be ordering the shims and seals as well.

[El_Diablo]

did you get it half off? i got an $80 torue wrench for like $40, a $30 digital multi-meter for $20 and a $25 bolt out kit for $10

135 before tax, i got it all for $64 total, gotta love craftsman sales thats the only reason i even went out today

[zofo61]

Anyone who pays full price for Craftman tools....is the most impatient person on the planet...they are ALWAYS on sale!.....jeez.....kinda sounded like a woman there for a moment.

[Superdave]

I just modified some of those LS1 spring seats to work, it takes like 10 sec with a die grinder.



Left is modified, right is stock


and yah, C clamp compressors are the best. Much safer and quicker than the jaw style.