Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Setting up HPTuners for a 60V6 Engine

Collapse
X
Collapse

  • Setting up HPTuners for a 60V6 Engine

    HPTuners is an OBDII scanning and programming suite that is currently being updated for better support to the 60V6 community. Before you begin tuning, it is important that your car is in the best physical condition possible.


    Tune Up
    • Fuel Filter
    • Air Filter
    • Spark Plugs
    • Spark Plug Wires
    • O2 sensor(s)

    Inspect
    • Transmission Fluid and Filter
    • Oil and Filter
    • Fuel Pressure
    • Tire Pressure
    • Brake Fluid, Rotors, Pads, Calipers (or brake drum assembly
    • All lights (turn signal, high and low beam, reverse, brake)

    Computer
    • Follow the HPTuner installation instructions for installation
    • DO NOT USE A POWER SUPPLY TO THE LAPTOP WHILE CONNECTED TO THE ALDL PORT
    • Do not use a battery charger while connected to the ALDL port
    • If your headlights come on with the key on, use the parking brake to turn them off.

    Scanning
    • This should be the first process you use to connect to the computer. Using the laptop, any errors or issues will be apparent immediately. If you have a problem, contact support at hptuners. Some of the newer engines require the latest beta to function properly (usually called a VIN/OS Pair error). Support can take care of you.
    • The default config file is found under File > Open Config (or CTRL + O)
    • Example Config File(s)

    Programming
    • When programming, make sure your laptop battery has a good charge for the read process, and especially the write process.
    • The first thing you should do is a read, and save. It is important to make a few backups of this file. You might consider using the 60V6 Links/Downloads area to upload your stock file, or even your modified files (please, no commercial tunes unless the company approves).
    • Using the "Write Calibration Only" option saves time and is all that is needed for tuning. A full tune will write the VIN and everything, which can be bad if you have the ability to write a different VIN to a PCM. VATS does not play well with this mismatch, so be sure you do not "Write Entire" with someone else's tune.

    All Set, Lets Go

    With the HPTuner connected to your laptop and the ALDL port of the car, turn the car to on, but not start.

    Go to the VCM Editor, and click on Flash, and then select Read Entire (or hit CTRL + R). A window will pop up showing you the status of the read. Click Begin. *It takes about 11 seconds from the key on for the computer to accept any commands from the programmer.* Then about 2 minutes later, the read will be complete and you can save your stock file to the laptop. Make a few copies of this file, preferably on a flash drive and another computer, or a remote server such as 60DegreeV6.com or the HPTuners site.

    Now that you have the stock file, and backups, you are ready to make some changes and get used to the process of programming. One of the most common changes is for the cooling fan turn on. This is found under the System heading, then Fans. Some engines run hotter than others, so you need to find the right on and off time so that the fan is not constantly running, or constantly shutting itself off and on every 30 seconds. For a stock 195 thermostat, I typically use a Fan 1 on at 205 and off at 200 and a Fan 2 on at 207 and off at 202. The MPH thresholds can be lowered if you want based on the type of highway driving you do. Based on OBD1 setups, 55mph should be enough airflow to keep the engine from overheating. Likewise, the fans should not need to be running very long at highway speed anyway.

    You should also have the option to leave the fans running when the car is shut off, based on the coolant temp,and the amount of time you want the fans to run. This is useful for some environments and applications, but for most it is not necessary

    Once you have set the fans how you like, go ahead and click File > Save As. I use a naming method of Test Spark 1, Test VE 1, Test Fan 1, etc. I also separate the files by month for each vehicle to help establish a timeline for the files.

    To flash the PCM, use the Editor program again, and turn the key on. Go to Flash > Write Calibration Only. It will take about 30 seconds. Once the flash is completed, turn the key off. You can then start the car to do a scan and check your fan turn on times.

    Scanning


    Assuming you still have the cable connected to the laptop/vehicle, it is now time to open the scanning software. Under File, click on Connect. This will let the laptop talk to the PCM without recording anything. To start scanning, either hit the Blue play button, or go to Scan, then Start Scanning. Now you should be able to watch the Table, Histograms, etc. by clicking on the Displays tab at the top

    Displays.jpg

    To start, lets open up the Primary Table display

    DefaultCFG.jpg

    And get rid of any of the options that are not supported but right clicking the table cell, then left click, and delete
    TableDelete.jpg

    Now we can start inserting new data to scan but doing the same as delete, but clicking on Insert. A window will pop up with the options available.

    TableInsert.jpg

    Under Engine Diagnostics > Misfire, you can find the cylinder misfire history and record it. This is very handy indeed!

    TableMisfire.jpg

    It is best to save your config files based on what you are using them for. The more you try to record at once, the lower the refresh rate is for all data.

    The following is/are example config files. The config file for pushrod VVT engines will usually contain the intake cam position, while the 3.6 will have intake and exhaust position.

    3400 Fueling.cfg

    • mfuller
      #1
      mfuller commented
      Editing a comment
      THANK YOU!!!!!!

    • SappySE107
      #2
      SappySE107 commented
      Editing a comment
      No problem, its still a work in progress but I knew this much would be a good start to get posted. The MAF tuning part of my .cfg file doesn't work yet and I don't know why. VE tune is first anyway (for now, until proven otherwise)

    • robertisaar
      #3
      robertisaar commented
      Editing a comment
      from what i've read.... VE tune is one of the first things you should do anyway.
    Posting comments is disabled.

Article Tags

Collapse

There are no tags yet.

Latest Articles

Collapse

  • DHP Software
    bszopi
    DHP PowrTuner


    DHP PowrTuner is an OBD-II tuning device.


    DHP PowrTuner v1.2.4 [04/26/07]
    DHP Database Update [05/21/07]
    DHP PowrTuner Manual
    02-14-2011, 02:17 PM
  • How to: Megasquirt2 v3.0 and Megatune
    Jonpro03
    Planning
    First step is to plan and buy your Megasquirt. I used a v3.0 board and a MS2 processor. http://www.diyautotune.com
    Currently, the latest board release is v3.57 and processor is MS3. However, you do not need a v3.57 board to install a MS3 processor. It will work for either board version.

    I recommend a V3.0 board because it currently has the best documentation. However, the 3.57 board is pre-assembled if you are not handy with a soldering iron. If you choose a 3.57 board, you need to know this information to use this write-up.


    $430 Includes MS2 processor


    $253 not including processor.

    Processor choice is completely up to you.
    The MS2 processor has the best documentation and is easy to set up and use. However, it only has a limited number of inputs and outputs and cannot handle advanced engine operations like sequential fuel injection.

    $96

    The MS3 processor is very new and much more advanced. It is highly expandable and is for a true enthusiast.

    $199 This article however, only covers the MS2 processor.

    You can optionally buy the Megastim. The stimulator acts as a 'digital car' and is used for assembly/testing/flashing purposes. I highly recommend you buy/build one. It can be good practice if you haven't used a soldering iron in a while.

    $45


    Assembly

    A lot of the information in this write-up is word for word from Megamanuals V3 assembly guide. But I'll just use the information that's relevant to 60degreeV6s.

    You will be referencing this image a lot to identify locations of the components as you are installing them. I recommend you print it.


    Power circuit
    Install and solder the male DB-37 header (P2) {A23289-ND or A32103-ND} on the PCB. The connectors require a bit of force to 'snap' them into place. Solder all of the pins to give the headers the maximum physical strength. Then install and solder the female DB-9 header (P1) {A23305-ND or A32119-ND}.

    Next, install the 40-pin DIP socket {AE7240-ND or AE10018-ND} for the processor - notice that the notch installs near the bottom of the board, corresponding to the PCB silk screen. The socket must be installed from the top of the board, and soldered from the bottom side. To prevent the socket from falling out while you turn the board upside down and solder, you can use a bit of scotch tape across the socket to hold it in place (this works for many of the ICs and some other components). Carefully solder the socket, and inspect each solder joint for shorts (to adjacent pins) or cold joints (solder applied to a joint the isn't hot enough to flow properly, typically they won't have a nice 'cone' to the solder).

    Next, you are going to install the components that make up the power supply, and then verify operation. The first part to install is the 'Perry' Metal Oxide Varistor MOV1 {P7315-ND}. This is a large flat disc, about an inch (~25mm) in diameter. It is soldered near the DB37 connector, and does not have a polarity, it can go either way around. This part protects the MegaSquirt from surges on the 12 volt line.

    Install the capacitor C15 {399-4202-ND, 0.001 F, 102 marking}. This goes near the MOV1 you just installed, between it and "Grippo" in the copyright notice.

    Install and solder C16 {399-1420-ND or 399-3584-ND, a tantalum capacitor, 22 microFarads (F), 226 marking} - make sure polarity is observed. It has a small + near the positive lead. The longer lead is also always the positive lead. It is located next to the DB9 connector.

    Install and solder C17 {399-1420-ND or 399-3584-ND, tantalum, 22 F} - make sure polarity is observed. The longer lead is positive on all of the capacitors. It is located next to the C16 capacitor you just installed, near the DB9 connector.

    Install and solder C18 {399-4329-ND, 0.1 F, 104 marking}. This installs near the DB9 connector, just above (closer to the heat sink area) the C17 capacitor you installed in the last step.

    Install and solder C19 {399-4329-ND, 0.1 F capacitor, 104 marking}. This installs near the CPU #1 pin.

    Install and solder C23 {399-4329-ND, 0.1 F capacitor}. This installs near CPU pin #21.

    Install and solder C22 {399-3559-ND, 4.7 F electrolytic} - make sure polarity is observed. It is located very close to C23.

    Install and solder D9 {1N4001DICT-ND} - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per board. This installs near the DB9 connector, very near U5 on the heat sink. To do this, make sure the end of the diode with the band on it goes to the end of the silkscreen (at D9) that has the band nearest it.

    Install and solder D10 {1N4001DICT-ND} - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per board. This is installed near the MOV1 you installed earlier.

    Install and solder diode D11 {1N4001DICT-ND} - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per board. This is installed near the MOV1 you installed earlier.

    Install and solder D12 {1N4749ADICT-ND, 24 volt Zener} - make sure banded end is installed correctly as shown on the printed circuit board. This installs very near D10 and D11.

    Install and solder diode D13 {1N4742ADICT-ND, 12 volt Zener, 1N4742 marking} - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per the board. It is located above the column of capacitors above "Grippo" in the copyright notice.

    Install and solder diode D19 {1N4734ADICT-ND, 5.6 volt Zener, 1N4734 marking} - make sure banded end is installed correctly as per the board. It is located in the upper right section of the board (near the DB37 and heat sink), below the Q14 and Q10 transistor and R32, R30 & R31 resistors.

    Install and solder L1 {M8388-ND, inductor, 1H, small coil of wire with leads}. It is installed near the notched end of the CPU socket. Space the inductor about 1/8 (3mm) off the PCB to avoid shorts on the traces underneath.

    Install and solder L2 {M8388-ND, inductor, 1H}. It is installed between the CPU socket and the DB9 connector. Space the inductor about 1/8 (3mm) off the PCB to avoid shorts on the traces underneath.

    Install and solder F1 and F2 {RXEF050-ND}. These are Amp poly fuses (small yellow discs that look similar to some capacitors) that acts like a circuit breaker on the 5 Volt supply to the PCB from the regulator. F1 installs very near the DB9, in the middle of some of the capacitors you have already installed. F2 installs near the center of the DB37 connector, and very close to it.

    Install the voltage regulator U5 {LM2937ET-5.0-ND}. This part installs near the DB9 connector on the top of the board. Use heat-sink compound on the tab, and use the nylon screw and nut to fasten to the PCB. The leads go through the board and are soldered on the top side.

    Install a jumper from the hole marked S12C to the hole marked JS9 (+12C). These are on the bottom side of the board, on the DB9 side of the processor.

    Connect the following jumper wires to control your GM IAC valve:
    • Connect (1A)JS0 (under the processor socket) to IAC1A (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC1A on DB37 pin #25
    • Connect (1B)JS1 (under the processor socket) to IAC1B (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC1B on DB37 pin #27
    • Connect (2A)JS2 (under the processor socket) to IAC2A (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC2A on DB37 pin #29
    • Connect (2B)JS3 (under the processor socket) to IAC2B (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC2B on DB37 pin #31

    Since we will be using an ignition output signal to control an ignition module with MS-II, jumper JS10 to IGBTIN, then jumper IGBTOUT to IGN. JS10 is on the bottom side of the board under the processor slot.

    If you want to use CAN communications (if you plan on using an electronic trans and plan on building a GPIO board to control it), jumper JS6 to SPR1/CANH and JS8 to SPR2/CANL

    Testing the power circuit is important to make sure you built everything correctly. Directions for testing can be found on the megamanual V3.0 assembly instructions - Step 23.

    Serial Communications Circuit

    First step, install capacitors C26, C27, C28, and C29, {all 399-4329-ND, 0.1 F, 104 marking} by soldering them in the appropriate locations near the DB9 connector.

    Next, solder the serial communication MAX232, U6 {497-2055-5-ND} - note the proper orientation on the silk-screening.

    Testing the com circuit is important to make sure you built everything correctly. Directions for testing can be found on the megamanual V3.0 assembly instructions - Step 26.

    Clock Circuit Install C1 {399-4329-ND, 0.1 F, 104) and solder. This is located near pin #20 of the CPU socket. Install and solder C20 {399-4361-ND, 0.033 F, 333 marking}. It is located in a row of three capacitors above the L1 inductor you installed (above ".info" in the copyright notice) Install and solder C21 {399-2075-ND or 399-4326-ND, 0.01 F, 103 marking}.
    02-06-2011, 02:09 PM
  • Heated O2 Sensor Install
    bszopi
    This is a how-to on installing a heated oxygen sensor into your car. The benefit of a heated oxygen sensor is that your car will go into closed loop much quicker, which means the ECM is adjusting your fuel based off of the sensor and not maps. By doing this your car will run better quicker on cold start-ups. It will also improved fuel consumption during start up, as well as reduce emissions.
    First, you will need to get a 4-wire heated O2 sensor with the pig-tail.
    ...
    01-21-2011, 08:15 PM
  • Setting up HPTuners for a 60V6 Engine
    SappySE107
    HPTuners is an OBDII scanning and programming suite that is currently being updated for better support to the 60V6 community. Before you begin tuning, it is important that your car is in the best physical condition possible.
    ...
    10-02-2010, 02:24 AM
  • Detailed Sensor Descriptions
    bszopi
    Contents1 Knock Sensor (KS)2 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR) 3 Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) 4 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 5 Intake Air Control Valve (IAC) 6 CPC 7 Oxygen Sensor (O2) 8 Ignition Control Module (ICM) 9 Park/Neutral Switch 10 Power Steering Switch 11 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) / Mass Air Temperature (MAT) Sensor 12 Crank Sensor (CS) 13 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) 14 Fuel Level Sensor 15 Oil Pressure Sensor 16 Oil Level Sensor Circuit 17 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Knock Sensor (KS) This sensor is screwed into the block and detects detonation. If knocking or pinging is sensed the ECM will retard the ignition timing to prevent serious engine damage. Depending on the strength of the knock the ECM will pull a set amount of timing very fast and then slowly reduce the knock retard back to 0 or more knock is encountered, whichever happens first. The circuitry in the knock sensor pulls the +5V input voltage down to 2.5V, the knock sensor then produces an AC voltage that rides the 2.5V DC voltage. A knock will cause a voltage spike in AC voltage that oscillates about the 2.5V bias, if the spike is above 3V it is considered knock. Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR) There are 3 types of EGR's: vacuum, digital, and PWM. Vacuum is vacuum so I'm not talking about that one. The purpose of the EGR is to reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions. From AllData: "The atmosphere is made up of mostly Nitrogen, with a smaller percentage of oxygen, and a mixture of other gases. Oxygen and Nitrogen do not normally combine except at very high temperatures and pressures, conditions which are present in the combustion chamber especially during hard acceleration. When the engine is under load, the EGR valve admits a small amount of exhaust gas into the intake manifold to mix with the air/fuel charge. The exhaust gas is essentially inert (contains no fuel or oxidizer) and reduces peak combustion temperatures and pressures by absorbing some of the heat of combustion without participating in the actual burn. Greater amounts of exhaust gas are metered in as engine speed and load are increased." The digital EGR uses 3 different sized solonoids, think of it as a low/meduim/high setting and the combonation of the 3 solonoids activating can vary how much exhaust is let into the intake. The new design is the Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) solonoid which is basically infinate in its adustability while the digital is somewhat stair-stepped. Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) The CTS is usually located in the lower intake somewhat close to the thermostat. Since the coolant temp is usually the same or higher then then temp of the lower intake the sensor is fairly accurate. on most body platforms there is seperate CTS sensor that runs the dash coolant temp guage. The sensor is a thermosistor, as the coolant temp gets higher the resistance drops. The ECM supplies the sensor +5V and measures the voltage drop through the thermosistor to determine temperature. Some resistance vs temperature values follow: F Ohms 210 177 158 467 104 1459 68 3520 32 9420 -4 28680 -40 100,700 The sensor is used for open/closed loop operation and is used in the calculation for fuel and ignition. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) This is actually just a potentiometer (variable resistor, sometimes called a rheostat), by turning the throttle body plate it rotates a shaft in the sensor causing different voltages to output. There are 3 wires: ground, +5V, and the sensor output. The different resistances caused by the rotating shaft vary the voltage output o*n the sensor output wire, the ECM then measures this voltage to determine how far the throttle is open. The sensor is located o*n the throttle body opposite the throttle lever. 0% throttle is usually about .5V and 100% throttle is around 4.5V Intake Air Control Valve (IAC) The IAC is located in the throttle body and controls idle speed and prevents stalling do to varying engine load. It controls the amount of air that is bypassed around the throttle plate, more air the idle increases, less air the idle decreases. The IAC has a conical shaped tip that it moves in and out to block/open the bypass air passage. The IAC is moved in small increments called "counts" and can be read by most scan tools A stuck IAC will cause a high idle, low idle, or perhaps correct idle but it won't change if you turn the A/C on (idle increases with A/C). CPC There is a vent on the gas tank that goes into a charcoal canister so that gasoline vapors do not vent to atmosphere, the CPC solonoid is hooked up between the charcoal canister and engine manifold. The solonoid is a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM, variable output) solonoid, turned on it blocks flow, turned OFF it allows. If the engine is warm, has been running for a set time, above a speed, and throttle is above a set point the ECM turns the solonoid OFF allowing the engine vacuum to suck the gasoline vapors out of the charcoal canister. Oxygen Sensor (O2) The oxygen sensor measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust system to determine if the engine needs more or less fuel. A regular oxygen sensor is sometimes referred to a narrow band o2 sensor (NBO2) because it is only accurate at stoich (14.7 air fuel ratio (AFR)) which is where an engine will produce the least emissions. As you can see by the image below, a NBO2 is only good at telling you if your are rich or lean but never how rich or how lean you are. A narrow band O2 is a switching type, reading rich, lean, rich, etc. If you graph the voltage output it looks quite a bit like what siesmograph or lie detector needles sketch. When the ECM is using the O2 sensor to correct the fuel tables it measures how long it is lean and how long it is rich, if they are equal then the AFR is at 14.7 right where it should be. O2 "counts" is how many jumps back and forth it makes. Due to its nature a NBO2 is all but useless for PE (power enrichment, hard acceleration) where the most power is made with a richer then stoich. You can tell that you are rich but not how rich which leads to more difficult tuning. A wide band O2 sensor on the other hand is not a switching type, and will read accurately from a wider range (hence narrow and wide band). St...
    09-09-2010, 09:05 PM
  • EEPROM Code
    bszopi
    Code is a language that computers or simple electronics understand, it serves as an instruction set to check what sensors are doing, and tells other electronic devices of the motor what to do and how to do it. For example, fueling and spark. "Code" what we refer to when tuning our ECU's, can be compared to as an ISO that is burnt to a CD. Or if you are not computer savvy, can be thought of, written letters and sentences on a piece of paper. The paper being the EEPROM and your writing as the code. With the proper hardware and computer programs, we read the c...
    09-09-2010, 07:23 PM
Working...
X