Plans for L32/3X00 Hybrid

[robert 1980]

Always nice to have a woring car in the end=)

[tkoforpresident]

It's just I like to get everything figured out ahead of time. It would be one thing if I had a non functional car I was planning to build on but I've got a nice setup right now with John's monster cam/ported heads. I want to make sure I'll have a working car by the time I'm done

Thanks for the help friend

[V6 SPL311]

Yeah, see I don't really know how to adjust TB cables or modify a bracket.

How many people have really done a 3.4 block with stock pistons and 3500 heads?

Because I'd be curious to find out how they took care of these oddball issues

I've seen all these "half finished" pictures of 3.4 hybrids but never the end result. I've heard of it being done by guys like Russell and others but have never seen any kind of information that helps put it together, just that it can in fact be done.

The motor I built is exactly that; 3.4 RWD block, stock pistons, and 3500 heads (combustion chambers opened up by John to allow 11.3 CR). There really weren't many "oddball" issues. Since I'm running MegaSquirt, there was no splicing and soldering of the injector harness. The Gen II Pushrods were perfect. Once completed, take the car to a tranny shop, they'll adjust the kickdown for a nominal fee. The couple we've done, the local shop didn't charge anything.

Half finished?

If you have specific questions, ask 'em and I'll try and help.

Put on your big boy pants and dive in.

[pocket-rocket]

Soldering is easy, man. Heat up your work (in this case, wires ), touch the solder to the wire until it flows and make sure it's penetrating the strands (you will actually be able to see the solder flow away from the heat through a capillary action), remove solder, remove heat and let cool before you move it. It doesn't have to be cold but the solder has to be solid again. You can tell the quality of your joint by looking at it. Dull is a cold joint and no good. It can work, but it isn't ideal. Shiny is good. Moving the parts before the solder goes solid can cause a cold joint.

Just be sure to buy rosin core solder. Acid core is for plumbing and is not compatible with electrical work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Btw, he tins his tip way more than I do. Also be sure the wire you are soldering together is clean and not coated with contaminants, otherwise the solder won't want to flow onto it. If you lived close to me I could have you soldering in minutes.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[tkoforpresident]

Yeah, see I don't really know how to adjust TB cables or modify a bracket. Heck I can't even solder. I'm not saying I won't try when the time comes but gosh it just seems like a lot. I can do cams and heads and whatnot but when it comes to this other stuff I'm lost.

How many people have really done a 3.4 block with stock pistons and 3500 heads?

Because I'd be curious to find out how they took care of these oddball issues


Heck, the tuning should be the EASY part since I've "downgraded" to obd-1 and have the ability to log and make new "chips". That's what drives me onward.. the fact that I don't have to replace pistons to do this and the tune should be relatively easy. I don't even have to take the front of the motor apart... only the top end gets replaced.

I've seen all these "half finished" pictures of 3.4 hybrids but never the end result. I've heard of it being done by guys like Russell and others but have never seen any kind of information that helps put it together, just that it can in fact be done.

[V6 SPL311]

I spent lots of time pondering the throttle cable. Ended up buying the Lokar LT1 universalish braided steel one. Ran the outer sheath along the injector rail under the UIM, simple bracket off the back passengerside bolt. Easy peasy. Still working on a more permanent solution for the TB end. The TCE throttle body doesn't have the barrell slot.

You plan on running the Stock ECM for trans control? We've put in a couple 700Rs into other swaps. TV cable is a must, as is proper adjustment of said cable.

[robertisaar]

heat shrink not 100% necessary with good electrical tape, but highly recommended.

[pocket-rocket]

Harness modification is cake if you can solder. Don't just twist and tape stuff like that. Solder and heat shrink is the only reliable way to go.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[tkoforpresident]

I'm more worried about just making this thing work. right now I don't even know if I can do the whole TB cable setup let alone modify the injector harness etc.

This thing is looking more impossible for me to do without having the know how from someone who has actually done it before. Help is hard to come by these days.

[V6 SPL311]

If you want to really clean up that upper intake, the entire EGR pedastal can be removed. Once cut off and ground smooth, all there is to do is tap a 1/2" pipe plug into the plenum just behind the TB. I'll grab some pics of mine today and post 'em up. Helps the overall look tremendously IMHO.

[ForcedFirebird]

The Blazer cable will work if you have a rear-pull TB setup. The 3.4 DOHC Grand Prix cable is nice and long and will reach for a front-pull TB.

[pocket-rocket]

I'm going to assume one is your knockdown/TV(?) cable. I've heard if it's misadjusted it can burn out clutches in your tranny faster, so that might be a good one to hook up.

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[tkoforpresident]

Trying to figure out the whole TB cable setup.


I have an auto trans but I don't really care if I keep the cruise control.

There are three cables that currently go to my 3.4 TB. Which ones definitely NEED to be hooked up to the new 3400 TB?

Obviously the actual throttle cable, which I've been told there is a direct fit for me from a trail blazer (John still needs to give me the part #)

But what about the other two?

[tkoforpresident]

thx John

I'm gonna need some parts from you soon.

[ForcedFirebird]

Glad to see you back at it, Max!