Woo-Hoo!! I finally get my engine back!!

[TDC GT]

The machine shop who has had my 91 TDC for 2.5 months finally says it's done. I had quite a bit of work done. But $1500 later I can't afford to have them reassemble it so I'm going to. I have a couple of questions:

1) Anyone know of a good high flow oil pump?
2) Anyone have any reassembly tips that may not be obvious to the amateur rebuilder?
3) What is the piece between the block and the oil filter??
4) I got an engine harness from an old 92 Corsica 3.1. It's covered with oil. What's the best way to remove the oil without comprimising the integrity of the wire coating?
5) Anyone have a particular brand of rings they prefer?

Thanks all...

[SappySE107]

Stock oil pump is the highest flowing that fits AFAIK. Possibly a V8 oil pump but I didnt look into that and only heard it from someone else. For assembly, i would suggest reading a book on assembling engines, since there is a lot to go over. Moly based lube is your friend,thats about all I can say for a general tip The piece betweenthe block and the oil filter is the oil cooler. If its not that, then its just an adapter piece to move the pressure sensor out of the way from the stock location (91-93 have the cooler). Soap and water, or some hand degreaser is my only though for the wires. carb spray isn't good on plastic. Finally, either chromemoly rings or total seal. I like total seal rings personally but there are plenty of others to choose from.

[patgizz]

the melling M187S oil pump is available cheapest at advance auto(whatever they are by you, checker or kragen?) around $57 - the exact same one you get at the GM dealer for $120

[TDC GT]

Thanks for the tips. I've done lots of cam, head, intake replacing before, but this is the first time I've worked on an engine with a balance shaft and no distributor. Since the machine shop tore down the short block for me, I'm not familiar with the whole balance shaft assembly. From what I've read, it's basically still there just to turn the oil pump, right?? So there's no timing involved with it?

Ben, I got Total Seal pistons .020" over so I'll probably get their rings too. Thanks.

[pocket-rocket]

I'm not familiar with the whole balance shaft assembly. From what I've read, it's basically still there just to turn the oil pump, right?? So there's no timing involved with it?

Actually it's not even called a balance shaft. In this engine, it's called an intermediate shaft, and yes, there is no timing involved with it. The only purposes it serves is 1. like you said, turn the oil pump, and 2. turn the timing belt.

[TDC GT]

Thanks PR

[pocket-rocket]

No problem. Good luck with the assembly

[34T]

have you assembled a "block assy" before? In case you haven't, make sure you know about rods and pistons and rings etc and which way they go in and which way they don't etc! There is a right and a wrong way, even tho they WILL fit very nicely the wrong way! Just thought I would mention that in case. And be VERY careful withi installing the rings; again, both the install'n AND the location of ring gaps is very important! And again, yes, they will go in any way at all, but only ONE way is right!
good luck!!

[TDC GT]

No, I've never done a block assy before. Lots of heads and cams, but no blocks. I've been told to stagger the ring gaps (I think) 120 degrees, but the exact number of degrees is not that important because the rings will turn when you start the engine. I've been looking for a book on the 60 degree chevy v6 but the only one I found was used on Amazon and they wanted $100.00 for it. I don't plan on assembling all of this expensive machinery without reading as much as I can and hopefully squeezing some knowledge out of this list first. Thanks for the warnings, much appreciated.
I'm not quite sure in what order the rings go in. One 1.5mm ring has a dot on it, one 1.5mm ring doesn't, but the bevel is different than the one with the dot. And the 4.0mm ring set is pretty obvious as to where it goes, though I've been told that's the trickiest of the bunch because they're so delicate and they can get skewed when you install the piston in the bore if you don't know what it's supposed to feel like. Anyone have any advice on the order of how the rings go in?? Thanks.

[34T]

your machine shop will likely be willing to help you out if you just spent a bunch of money there. I would hazard a guess on the rings but the very best info is from the manufacturer!! And they should help you and be happy to do it!! Be aware that you have 3 LEFT bank and 3 RIGHT bank piston/rod assemblies; and a 'front/rear' for each piston, etc, and so you need to put the rings in accordingly. Rod bearings only go one way. Again, ask your supplier/mfr and if they don't seem confident, go to someone more knowledgeable. Is it a 3 pc oil ring? It has 3 gaps itself. Same thing. And the mfr may even tell you to install the top rail FIRST, then the other 2 parts - it is their piece so get their input definitely!
And get a decent piston ring expander and a good compressor and then lube it up REALLY well. Is the block sparkling clean inside and out or did they do a 'cursory' cleaning (make it look fairly clean...)? Oil passageways too? are you going to do any work on the block yourself? Anything to help the oil return to the crankcase, for example?
Oh yeah, you might want to check ring gaps anyway..... their is a procedure for that too; use one of your old pistons (upside down) to push a ring into the top of the bore and then check the end gap(s).

I'm not so sure the rings would move much (rotate?) when you start the engine; i think they will be pretty busy just going up and down and seating themselves... I have never seen any evidence of that.
there are TONS of books on the subject and I am sure there are lots that are ie $29 or maybe even less. It is WORTH it. Get at least TWO and it is a great investment in making this engine run even better and last longer.
good luck!!!