timing gone wrong

[dohcfiend]

well i took my motor out a while back replaces the head gasket, the fuel rail, put a stall in it and tried a 13* mod. i tried to crank it yesterday but it was a no go. it has spark and fuel so my guess is that i milfed the timing when i timed it the cams looked like this at tdc:


I I
0 0 0 0
------I I


of couse the ex cams were moved very slightly to the right being how they were 13* retarded. my guess is that 1/2 ass timing tool i had made wasn't precise enough or maybe the belt slipped cause for $$$ reasons i had to reuse the old belt and pullies.

what do u guys think?

[jmgtp]

When the crank is at TDC are all the cam flats facing up? They shouldnt be. You have to time one bank, rotate crank 360*, then time the other -- so the cam flats on one bank are 180* opposite the other bank.

[dohcfiend]

2 are up and 2 are down at tdc as illustrated by that crappy diagram. the circles represent the cams and the I's represent the flats. the little dashes are used cause the posting doesn't recognize the beginning spaces so i had to put in little dashes or hyphens or whateva they are to get the I's under the other 2 0's.

the only code the scanner gives is an "a/c line pressure switch failure" cause i removed all the a/c lines when i pulled the motor. i don't think the pcm would not start the car b/c of that. but i have seen all 6 plugs fire when the engine is cranked over and i can smell the gas, not to mention the plugs were pretty saturated when i pulled them.

the bastard just won't come to life.

just to get this in the open as well. i was told the tdc mark on the engine is a casting line that has like a little arrow shape coming off of it. here is another of one of my makeshift diagrams(don't pay any attention to the hyphens):





---- |
--- /|
-- / |
---- |

[dohcfiend]

assumption is the mother of all fuck up isn't it? i assumed since my plugs were saturated that the fuel part was ok.

i read a previous post about a car not starting and some1 suggested the fuel injectors may be at fault do to them being open and purging the fuel.

well for shits and giggles i hit the test port, nothing energized the ignition hit it again, dribble. i pulled the rail, cheated the fp solenoid and 5 out of six of them were spraying away. i tapped them lightly with a screwdriver and they stopped. these injectors worked fine be4 i pulled the motor what the hell happened?

[jmgtp]

If by 'test port' you mean the pressure relief valve on the fuel rail... it should spray fuel out under a lot of force. If it just dribbled out you don't have adequate fuel pressure.

[dohcfiend]

i replaced them with some spares and they work good and the engine cranked. NOW comes the timing. it idles at 1500, then jumps for 15 to 2k to 15, then holds a steady idle at 3k!!!! the scanner says tps circuit low, but i think timing may be an issue as well.

has any1 tried altering the timing and got a really high idle?

also i did switch upper plenums so it may be the tps if the tps fail do u get a high idle?

[SappySE107]

cam timing wont cause your idle to be that high. Check the TPS and the idle stop screw and make sure your throttle isnt stuck open some. The cruise control will do that sometimes for whatever reason and you have to pull the clip off it and set it to a new location that lets the throttle plate close all the way.

[dohcfiend]

i checked the plate removed the cruise cable and throttle cable together, checked the screw, replaced the tps all to no avail.

what about the iac valve? also do u know how to test the wiring on the iac and tps connectors? i have a digital mulitmeter, so it should be np once i know what to look for.


btw it's worse now it starts at 2k and goes up to 3k in about 5-10 secs it was like that be4 i replaced the tps. wait now it automaticaly goes to 3k. damn.

is there anyway to check the lim gaskets? they are new but my gut leans towards a vacuum leak.