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  • Dave96z34
    replied
    Originally posted by timg View Post
    As far as I can tell, no one else makes a high performance clutch for the 284. I checked Comp, ACT, and Quartermaster with no luck. Rock Auto does list some factory replacement clutches starting at $275.

    I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch in my S2000. Initially, it was super grabby. After a few thousand miles it broke in and is now pretty good. It's always been really noisy (rattling), but it has held over 440 whp and 360 ft-lbf.

    Tim
    Hey shoot me a txt when you get a chance.

    Leave a comment:


  • 19Cutlass94
    replied
    I was looking for the same. High performance clutch for the 284. I found nothing, but then some friends on a different forum suggested Bully Clutch. www.bullyclutch.com Im going with their stage 3.

    Leave a comment:


  • timg
    replied
    As far as I can tell, no one else makes a high performance clutch for the 284. I checked Comp, ACT, and Quartermaster with no luck. Rock Auto does list some factory replacement clutches starting at $275.

    I have a SPEC stage 2 clutch in my S2000. Initially, it was super grabby. After a few thousand miles it broke in and is now pretty good. It's always been really noisy (rattling), but it has held over 440 whp and 360 ft-lbf.

    Tim
    Last edited by timg; 02-15-2012, 09:38 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave96z34
    replied
    Myn st3 is slipping hard core now 6 puck clutches suck to begin with. The st3+ is a size full clutch it should be okay for years.

    Leave a comment:


  • NateD4
    replied
    What broke on your clutch?

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  • 19Cutlass94
    replied
    Originally posted by Dave96z34 View Post
    There were no limits at all worked great runs the same as any of the thousands of l67's. I grenade 2 transmissions in 3 weeks the middle week I took first place in a class of 75 drag racers I did something right.

    yes! wish i had gone with the 3+
    Ive talked to a few people and they suggest not going with spec. One of them had 2-3 spec grenade on him, and the other had one slip like crazy.

    Leave a comment:


  • timg
    replied
    I'll have the clutch tomorrow and the transmission Thursday. I'll drop off the flywheel, crank/main studs, and head studs at the machine shop on Thursday also. It shouldn't be too long now.

    Tim

    Leave a comment:


  • hok666
    replied
    Maorrrrr!!!.... pics

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  • timg
    replied
    Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
    The difference between just fine and perfect is knowing what a fully programmable setup does vs a limited tuning solution. You could run a carb on a boosted 3.4 DOHC just fine too, and that would be special.

    I have nothing more to contribute to this thread, good luck.
    I would love to have something OBD1 that can recognize boost, do speed density, and allow real time tuning. I didn't go that way because 6 years ago when I was planning all of this and buying parts, it was quite hard to find OBD1 tuning solutions and I wanted to run a 4T65e-HD (I even have a spare one sitting in the garage). Since then, it looks like everything in the OBD1 tuning world has moved forward a lot, but that transmission would have still been a problem.

    The biggest limitation of OBD2 in my book is its inability to recognize and use boost to tune (not to mention the inability to do real time tuning on the vast majority of PCMs). There are custom OS's out there that allow SD tuning, but they are few and far between. The last I heard about the boosted L36's was that they could see boost if re-programmed for a 2 or 3 bar MAP sensor, but it also prevented them from idling properly as it reset their barometric pressure calculation as soon as they hit boost. I remember some custom L67/L36 code being attempted, but it was outside the realm of what HPTuners was capable of. As long as the transmission itself doesn't complicate the tuning with weird quirks of an OS never designed for a manual, it should be MUCH easier to tune a manual car on a dyno than an automatic.

    Either way, I tend to greatly prefer standalones to any stock computer tuning solution for cars that are far from stock (near stock, I prefer tuning factory computers). The range of capabilities and inputs is much greater and you know exactly what your tune is going to do. With factory computers, I always worry that there are tables I can't see and edit that are going to mess with the tune when they shouldn't and cause lots of problems.

    Tim

    Leave a comment:


  • Dave96z34
    replied
    Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
    The difference between just fine and perfect is knowing what a fully programmable setup does vs a limited tuning solution. You could run a carb on a boosted 3.4 DOHC just fine too, and that would be special.
    There were no limits at all worked great runs the same as any of the thousands of l67's. I grenade 2 transmissions in 3 weeks the middle week I took first place in a class of 75 drag racers I did something right.

    yes! wish i had gone with the 3+
    Last edited by Dave96z34; 02-10-2012, 03:22 PM.

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  • timg
    replied
    And I just took the red pill... There's a SPEC stage 3+ clutch on the way. I hope I like this one better than the SPEC stage 2 in my S2000.

    Tim

    Leave a comment:


  • SappySE107
    replied
    Originally posted by Dave96z34 View Post
    OBD 2 works just fine I ran boosted 4 years with out problems. If you feel the need to be special get a haltech EMS.
    The difference between just fine and perfect is knowing what a fully programmable setup does vs a limited tuning solution. You could run a carb on a boosted 3.4 DOHC just fine too, and that would be special.

    I have nothing more to contribute to this thread, good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • timg
    replied
    I already have both a 96 and 97 harness with computers, an AeroForce Interceptor scan gauge, DHP, and HP Tuners, so at this point it's going to be OBD2. For the 95, the wiring swap doesn't seem too complex.

    Anyway, here are some pictures of the new, old parts. Most have been posted before, but threads are worthless without pics. (The turbo in the first picture is a T67 compressor and P-trim T4 turbine with a dual ball bearing center section. It uses the small T04E compressor cover so it will swap directly in place of my current setup. The normal T67 compressor housing is HUGE and would require redoing the entire set of hot and cold turbo piping.)

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    Tim
    Last edited by timg; 02-08-2012, 11:37 PM.

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  • Dave96z34
    replied
    Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
    I would OBD1 swap long before i ever considered OBD2 for what you want to do. I have a 92 with a 284 and built DOHC with 97 monte computer. Its ok for NA, but id ditch it in a second with boost. OBD1 can do a better job, or megasquirt.

    Edit, 91-93, or Nast1 or code 59 or anything along those lines. 94-95 DOHC is just not going to catch on, ever. The MAF tables are setup horribly.
    OBD 2 works just fine I ran boosted 4 years with out problems. If you feel the need to be special get a haltech EMS.
    Last edited by Dave96z34; 02-08-2012, 09:05 PM.

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  • SappySE107
    replied
    I would OBD1 swap long before i ever considered OBD2 for what you want to do. I have a 92 with a 284 and built DOHC with 97 monte computer. Its ok for NA, but id ditch it in a second with boost. OBD1 can do a better job, or megasquirt.

    Edit, 91-93, or Nast1 or code 59 or anything along those lines. 94-95 DOHC is just not going to catch on, ever. The MAF tables are setup horribly.

    Leave a comment:

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