Entering Closed loop faster with $A1

[tkoforpresident]

I'm super pissed and I need your guys' help


My car kept stalling out in drive/reverse even after reinstalling the EGR components with new gaskets. I was so mad that I ripped out all the heated o2 wiring and threw the sensor into a neighbors yard.


At this point I told myself to just put the car back to what it was before so I can just start driving it again at this point.

So I installed a new single wire o2 sensor and spliced it into the pcm reference wire. I have the EGR installed with all new gaskets & etc.

But the problem is still there! WTF? As soon as I put the car in drive a few seconds or a minute later it just stalls out and dies.

The exhaust leak is still there (i can hear it) at the egr/header pedestal but do not try to tell me that a small exhaust leak could make my car stall out cause I aint buyin it.


I can get a log of the stall out if you guys want but I'm super pissed right now because I put everything back to what it was before and the problem is still there.

The ONLY things different now is :

1. there is an exhaust leak at the header pedestal

2. The o2 sensor wire is now spliced into the pcm reference wire

3. the EGR sensor wires are cut (just kinda hanging there)


that's it!

plz help me, I suck at this whole car scene.

[tkoforpresident]

i have to look at the log to see that

[Superdave]

what's the MAP getting up to right before it stalls?

[tkoforpresident]

my car isn't even loping. And when I put it in drive it just stalls out. I bet there is a vacuum leak.


I'm just gonna put the bloody EGR back on.

[tkoforpresident]

btw, was tapping into the ignition fuse slot a good idea?

[tkoforpresident]

zipping failed too.

[robertisaar]

it's not letting me upload for some reason, I'll email it to you now.

in the future, try ZIPing them first.

[tkoforpresident]

it's not letting me upload for some reason, I'll email it to you now.

[tkoforpresident]

Fix the leaks before you try to diagnose other problems.

It's just an exhaust leak where the EGR used to sit on the header....



don't yell at me

[robertisaar]

<-- @yahoo.com

or you could just attach to a post, that would allow everyone to look at it...

[tkoforpresident]

robert, can I email you the datalog to look at? What's your email, I lost it.

[robertisaar]

don't suppose you happen to know how John hooked up your P/N switch?

have that log where the MAP high code popped up?

[SappySE107]

Fix the leaks before you try to diagnose other problems.

[tkoforpresident]

ok so i tightened up the o2 sensor and started up the car (this time while datalogging). No more smoke coming from the sensor so that's good...

Interesting to note that my car went into closed loop at just about the same time it did before with a single wire o2 sensor (but we haven't changed the timers yet either)

I waited til it got into closed loop mode and then put the car in DRIVE. Couple seconds later it started idling at ~ 500 rpm and felt like it was gonna die. I quickly put it in park and gave it some gas. It idled ok for another minute. Then i put it in DRIVE again and it happened again! Dropped to 500 rpm, engine light came on, and then the motor died.

The code that was set off was 33- Map voltage High (which I *think* means that there is low vacuum) Now it can't just be a coincodence that it is acting up now after I got done with a heated o2 sensor installation and EGR! with block off plates.

Is there something I could have done to make this happen? FYI.. I blocked off the plenum with a piece of sheet metal using copper rtv as a gasket and used sheet metal, a gasket, and some copper rtv for the EGR pedestal on the header (which I think is leaking pretty bad, but that wouldn't affect the map or the vacuum would it?)


help plz

I'm such a failure

[tkoforpresident]

soo here's what i did...


I ran the wire over to the fuse box and used an "add-a-fuse" to the 10 amp Ignition slot. I figured i could get my power from there since (i think) it has 12V only when the engine is ON.

Started the car up, next thing you know loud ticking (exhaust leak...) but it could also be from the crappy EGR block off plate that I made for the header (don't care if THAT leaks) and then the o2 sensor starts smoking/bubbling around the base. Maybe It's from the excess amounts of anti seize compound I put on there or maybe I didn't tighten the o2 sensor enough (prettty sure I did but I've done some dumb things before).

Then my car promptly stalled out after about 2 minutes


I can't do anything right.

first of all, is that a decent place for me to draw power from? And secondly, I'm gonna go out and see if I can tighten up that sensor some more just in case that's what was leaking.