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3.4 swap into 1985 Jeep Cherokee questions?
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Looks normal. A little more rust than I like to see in the water passages. But some heavy coolant flushes over the first few month should take care of it. No need for harsh cleaners or anything.
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Here is what I got done after a few hours of work. I need to get a puller for the engine dampner. Does everything look fine? Any comments?
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I went ahead and ordered the Crane lifters. Here is a link to what I ordered http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
Now I am waiting for parts to show up. I am going to go pull the injection stuff and intake manifold off now and start cleaning things.
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Originally posted by betterthanyou View PostNa stay away from cheep lifters man. Nothing will wipe out a cam faster. Its not worth the possible headaches.
yes you can use the spring found on the crate motor. You also need the retainers to match. But they are a great combo and work well.
Another question I had does not have to do with buying parts. While doing this swap I was thinking about doing away with my air pump and all of the lines that run around the engine bay. I was also thinking I would like to use the 3.4 exhaust manifolds and plug the holes for the O2 sensors and just let the EGR valve hang out. What problems would I run into doing this? Also the 3.4 Y pipe is cut off just past where the two sides of the pipe join does anyone know if this is going to fit? My 2.8 manifolds and Y pipe are not in very good shape so i would like to avoid using them and I don't want to buy new ones either.
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Na stay away from cheep lifters man. Nothing will wipe out a cam faster. Its not worth the possible headaches.
yes you can use the spring found on the crate motor. You also need the retainers to match. But they are a great combo and work well.
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what about these lifters? Will they work with the cam?
Or would the edelbrock ones be a better choice?
what about these valve springs? I am guessing they will not work since they are not the specs that were suggested.
How about these? It looks like they are the part that is used on the GM Crate 3.4. They are rated at 105 pressure at installed height of 1.7 and 296 pounds at 1.2 open. http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/gm-pa...-fullsize.html
but it looks like a different retainer is suggested for these.Last edited by cardana24; 02-25-2008, 12:01 AM.
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Originally posted by Ed_Mc. View PostHere's some examples of valve spring compressors:
Your power tool and industrial equipment superstore, carrying top brands including Dewalt, Milwaukee, Greenlee, Ridgid, and many more
If done with the heads still installed, you need an Air Hold Fitting to pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves in place.
Air Hold Fitting: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi14.html
As an alternative you can feed a length of flexible rope or twine into the spark plug hole then bring the piston up to TDC (or as close to TDC as the rope will allow, before stopping the piston), and the rope will prevent the valves from falling in the cyl when you remove the valve springs.
HTH.........ed
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Here's some examples of valve spring compressors:
Your power tool and industrial equipment superstore, carrying top brands including Dewalt, Milwaukee, Greenlee, Ridgid, and many more
If done with the heads still installed, you need an Air Hold Fitting to pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves in place.
Air Hold Fitting: http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi14.html
As an alternative you can feed a length of flexible rope or twine into the spark plug hole then bring the piston up to TDC (or as close to TDC as the rope will allow, before stopping the piston), and the rope will prevent the valves from falling in the cyl when you remove the valve springs.
HTH.........ed
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Originally posted by betterthanyou View PostYes you need a valve spring compressor. If the work is done out of the truck then a lever type spring compressor works the best. You will also need a compression tool in order to pressurize the cylinders so the valve stems stay up when the spring is off. You need springs with about 100lbs seat and 340lbs open. You may or may not be able to use the stock retainer depending on the required install height.
You can run the EFI fairly easily but then your pump requirements and regulator requirements have now changed, you need to bypass the VATS system in the Camaro ECM and then do a whack of wiring.
Do you have a link to the style of valve spring compressor that would work best? I will be doing the work on an engine stand. Also what type of compression tool are you talking about to keep the valve stems up? I have a compression tool to check compression on the cylinders but I doubt that is what you are talking about. If I find out the spec on the valve springs could you tell me if I can use stock retainers? Or could you tell me the acceptable height that I can still use the stock retainers?
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Yes you need a valve spring compressor. If the work is done out of the truck then a lever type spring compressor works the best. You will also need a compression tool in order to pressurize the cylinders so the valve stems stay up when the spring is off. You need springs with about 100lbs seat and 340lbs open. You may or may not be able to use the stock retainer depending on the required install height.
You can run the EFI fairly easily but then your pump requirements and regulator requirements have now changed, you need to bypass the VATS system in the Camaro ECM and then do a whack of wiring.
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Originally posted by betterthanyou View PostYea grab that regulator. Looks good.
The springs look like they should work but see if you can dig up specs.
On a side note I just got back from picking my 3.4 engine up today. I'll post a pic of what I have in the next few days. I got an entire 3.4 from a 94 camaro. It came with all of the acessories, all of the sensors, a ECU and an engine wiring harness. How much trouble would it be to get this thing running fuel injected with having the wiring harness and all of the other stuff?
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Yea grab that regulator. Looks good.
The springs look like they should work but see if you can dig up specs.
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Will these valve springs work with what I am doing?
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I looked around more for fuel pressure regulators and i found the Mallory 4309 for 73 and some changed shipped thru Amazon. It is about 50 buck cheaper than the Aeromotive one and its not some off brand on ebay. I thought this would be a good alternative. here is the link if you want to check it out http://www.amazon.com/Mallory-4309-P.../dp/B000BWCE7E
I also went ahead and ordered a fuel pump from amazon as well since I was going to get the same one from advanced auto here in town, but with free shipping at amazon it was $10 cheaper.
it should do fine for what I need. its nothing crazy, I am just hoping it will be reliable.Last edited by cardana24; 02-22-2008, 01:46 AM.
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