4T60-e shift Kit?

[AWeb80]

I was talking to Corey (blackbombshell95) via AIM and told him I am going to do a tranny pan drop and fluid/filter change soon.

He told me I should do a shift kit. I asked him where to get one, how hard is it and can I put one in.....he didn't know...but thought that one could be "homemade" w/ some washers and such.


any one got any insight to a good shift kit....how to put one in or if one can be home made?

thanks.

94 GP btw...in the sig

[gpse3400]

Well the only shift kit I know of is the Trans go kit, which is really just a correction package which requires removal of the side pan to get at the valve body... The best way to get firmer shifts are to shim/collar the accumulators. With the pan down this can be done....I've found that 3 GM door hinge bushings for each accumulator does really well. Plus the the adjustment of the modulator to kick up the pressure will firm it up even more.

[AWeb80]

Ok....Lorenzo right?

can you give me pics and such as to how this is done?

I know nothing about tranny's.....also, can you give me a part number or pic of the door hinge things?

[gpse3400]

Yup tis me!!!! Honestly I don't have any pics... But I can tell you what to look for and how to handle it. The door hinge bushing you can get from the parts store down the HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!! aisle. First thing if you do want to shim the accumulators, you will want to get yourself a new Acuumulator gasket from stealership.

With the pan off you see a few fun and exciting things!! But lets focus on whats importante. The filter which I'm sure you know what it looks like and if you dont know, you will when you get the filter kit. Next you will see a "circle" bolted up with 3 bolts and 2 curved pipes comming out of it going to the accumulator housing which is a plate looking thing with a bunch of 8mm bolts. You should be exceptionally messy right nowMake a note of where the pipes go, they will pretty much only fit one way but you just want to be sure. What you want to do is on the side of the accumulator cover that is facing the pan mating surface, start un screwing the 8mm bolts on that side while loosening all the others. When you get the last bolt out the acuumulator housing should be ready to come down if it hasn't fallen already. With the accumulator housing in hand remove all the bolts and remove the cover. You will now see the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator pistons...with the housing facing your oil catch you used when you drained the fluid press both of the pistons in to expell the remainng fluid in the bores.With the housing facing you, press the pistons in slowly till you can grasp the piston guide shaft and pull it straight out, remove the pistons now.You can use the guide shaft to fish the piston out of the bore. When you remove the piston you will see the return springs in the bore, leave those there. Now it would be best to take the guide pin to the parts store and match it up. The collar bushings will fit loosly around the shaft but will be just perfect for the piston stops on the piston and the housing. Replace the shaft, install 3 of the bushings around the shaft, replace the piston gasket, cover and housing assembly. Note the the pipes are not a tight fit. Torque the housing all down 124 in-lbs.
If you have a FSM now would be a good time to look at it. Any year 4t60-E in an FSM will help you.

Door Hinge Bushings for an '85 Monte Cristo

http://www.dormanproducts.com/images/items/hwrap1/kit38376.jpg

[3400-95-Modified]

Very well said... I can get pictures of this accumulator housing if you need them, I currenlty have a 4t60e torn apart in the garage.

[AWeb80]

Pics Would Be Wonderful! I Learn By Looking At Pics. I Followed Lorenzo untill he took apart the accum. housing. ....then I was a little lost.... i've done a pan drop and filter change twice now. so i have a little idea of what to look for.

[gpse3400]

You think you'er lost now try rebuilding one of these things.... The Fluid is everywhere!!!!

[AWeb80]

Pics asap would be Awesome.....I might do this NEXT friday depending on the weather....

[torq455]

you really don't want to shim the acuumulators. the springs are there to absorb the instant shock of the fluid path change. a simple ~12$ adjustable vacuum modulator will give you the firmness you are looking for. without maxing your pump, you can achieve a shift that almost seems to snatch the next gear especially under light throttle. a good tranny cooler will help that too.

[3400-95-Modified]

Sorry just checked this today, I'll get pics tonight of the housing and what bolts to take off first.

Also I've had my accumulators shimmed for probably 50k miles or so and I've never had a problem with it. I also have the adjustable modulator on there, and its the modulator that will max out your pump before the accumulators would do anything like that.

[gpse3400]

10-4

[AWeb80]

^ Much Appreciated. What Module Do You Have? And How Do I Hook It Up? I'm Also Putting A Trans Cooler On.

[AWeb80]

I was suggested on gmwbody to get new springs.....from a caddy 4T60-e.....


so basically, all i'm gonna do is put shims in the holes of the accum.....?


W/ all the people that have done this, I can't believe nobody has documented this thoroughly w/ pics and such

[torq455]

i just went to my local parts store and asked for one. just follow the vacuum line down from the UIM to the tranny. that big cylinder grey looking thing is the factory modulator. it's like a distributer, one bolt and a c-shape clamp. unbolt and pull out. i also tossed the hard line and that plastic air restrictor in favor of an actual vacuum hose. with all of that the tranny reacted a little faster during a WOT downshift. pay attention to the rod that goes into the tranny. the aftermarket modulator is a 3-way universal rod iirc. i didn't know that then and put it right in. luckily, it was by default the correct set up.

[AWeb80]

any pics yet?