Is the 2.8l really what I want?

[3400-95-Modified]

Those are actually where the AC compressor would normally mount.. I'm not sure if they are ideal for a motor mount but I'm sure someone else can answer that question better.

[Ghosteh]

Here's what I mean. Would these three points be ok to use when fabricating a mount for this side?

[Ghosteh]

Sure seems that the ten years was worth it! Still that is a long time to wait.

Ha! You're telling me!

Job, kids, divorce, moving, new marriage, etc.,... it's all a huge distraction and money magnet that keeps a guy from finishing his projects. But I hope that I'm in the home stretch now!


Got the car to my friend's shop, and after he finishes up a few other projects (he works on a lot of farmer's equipment), we're going to get this thing installed!

Motor mount question: On the left side of the block, there are two mounting points on the block itself, and a 3rd on the oil pan. I didn't remove the engine from the original car, but I assume that it's safe to use all three of those points together as one mount. My concern was using the one on the oil pan, but it looks like it was made to be used in that way. The right side of the block has 4 good mounting points on the block itself, so that's not an issue.

[Purple pit]

Sure seems that the ten years was worth it! Still that is a long time to wait.

[Ghosteh]

Thanks! This is my one & only toy, and it's been about 10 years in the making. Hopefully this is the summer that I'll finally get to drive it!

[Purple pit]

That is so clean/new looking it's sick!

[Ghosteh]

Today the Healey yawned & stretched, blinked it's headlights, and rolled itself out into the sunlight for the first time in months. (Actually, I was doing the "Fred Flintstone", since I'm still working on the LX9)

I loaded her up into the trailer & will be taking it to a machinist/fabricator friend's shop, where the motor mounts will be installed, along with modifying the exhaust manifolds to fit correctly, welding the O2 sensor port in them, and then bending & hanging a stainless steel (polished) exhaust system. I may have him make a battery box for me & also run the fuel lines, since he has all the bending tools & is SUCH a better fabricator than me!

Once all the big stuff is done, then I'll start working on the computer, sensors & wiring issue. With any luck, I'll have a drivable chassis by the time Spring turns into Summer. From that point, it should be easy to get the paint & upholstery finished and have a completed car by labor day (hopefully sooner... but we all know how things work out)!

[Ghosteh]

It won't work with that weight because its not balanced neutral... that's the point the old engine you were using is balanced externally not internally meaning counter weights are on the flywheel and harmonic dampener. The 3500 is all balanced internally meaning anything you bolt onto the ends need to be neutral like a tire. If you put that flywheel on it will unbalance the whole motor and destroy the bottom end.

In simple terms you need to buy a neutral balanced flywheel or take the one you have to a shop and tell them to MAKE it a neutral balanced flywheel... They will then do what's necessary to get it there which will probably include milling off that cast hunk.

Thank you for explaining. I didn't know that, and now it makes perfect sense.

[Ghosteh]

Rock auto sells flywheels for around $50

That's the solution! I couldn't get a machine shop to look at it for $50

[geoffinbc]

Every replacement flywheel I have used has been great. I don't think any were over $100. At some point you will need to buy one because a used one has only one refresh from a machine shop in it. After that it gets too thin and you can also run into clutch disengagement and warping issues

[caffeine]

Rock auto sells flywheels for around $50

[3400-95-Modified]

It won't work with that weight because its not balanced neutral... that's the point the old engine you were using is balanced externally not internally meaning counter weights are on the flywheel and harmonic dampener. The 3500 is all balanced internally meaning anything you bolt onto the ends need to be neutral like a tire. If you put that flywheel on it will unbalance the whole motor and destroy the bottom end.

In simple terms you need to buy a neutral balanced flywheel or take the one you have to a shop and tell them to MAKE it a neutral balanced flywheel... They will then do what's necessary to get it there which will probably include milling off that cast hunk.

[Ghosteh]

Blast it yes but also seeing how it has that cast weight you'll definitely have to have it checked and most likely milled off and re-balanced to neutral.

Ok, I'm really lost on this flywheel stuff... Why won't the one I have work with that cast weight in it? Will it hit somewhere on the block or something? If I pay a shop to mill it off, then rebalance it, would it be cheaper just to buy a new one? (I have no idea what it would cost, but seems like you can't get a mill spinning for less than $100)

I took a look at some replacement cast flywheels, and they vary tremendously in price - anywhere from $100 - $400. When the cost varies that much, I'm sure the quality becomes an issue for the cheap ones, correct?


Sorry about all the questions guys. I'm really relying on all of you to walk me through this. I can bolt on stock replacement parts easily enough, but when everything starts changing, I'm really nervous about getting the correct part on the first time and making sure everything fits & works.

[Ghosteh]

That link for the bellhousing you picked up uses a Ford bellhousing to transmission pattern. Only pick it up if you're using a Ford or 93+ GM T5. If I were you I'd probably just use your existing bellhousing (since you already know it fits your car) and cut an opening for the driver's side starter.

Ok, that makes sense. I'm not sure what I'm using, but I believe it's an '88 S10 T-5. Looks like that one would bolt to the block, but not to the transmission.

Cutting out an opening for the driver's side starter... let's call that "Plan B". I know it would work, but I'd rather have those teeth protected and look a little slicker. The dual-pocket bellhousing, like the one you posted, would be a little better, IMHO. I just didn't know if there was another option that would work even better.

[caffeine]

That link for the bellhousing you picked up uses a Ford bellhousing to transmission pattern. Only pick it up if you're using a Ford or 93+ GM T5. If I were you I'd probably just use your existing bellhousing (since you already know it fits your car) and cut an opening for the driver's side starter.