Home Made Fuel Injector Cleaning Machine

[60dgrzbelow0]

Simplifying the Design of "The FrankInjector"

Okay ... I thought I would get a bit of a jump on the "end-game" portion of this project before I actually dive into the doing of it next week, This idea hearkens back to what Superdave suggested earlier about the "Over-Engineering" aspect of the design and build of this EFI "Kleanser" Device called ..."The FrankInjector".

Occam's Razor suggests that in trying to describe anything..the simplest explanation of any problem (and its solution) is almost 99.9999% correct. So too does that principle follow on in regards to engineering. In many of the things I've had to think up "from scratch" and then build to solve any particular mechanical need, I know that "Real" Engineers would cringe at either how overly sturdy or overly safety-conscious I have been... and in most cases... completely inelegant by their standards. But the simple fact is...that when I set my mind to finding a way to fix something or do something in my own, unconventional way...it stays...fixed...and always works better than it worked (or failed to) before.

But having an open mind amongst so many talented and capable people is the only way we all learn and grow...and so I am re-visiting my design of this machine with an eye towards simplifying its design to the point where I can eliminate the need for having to use the most problematic of its components:

The GM Fuel Rail-Manifold

The next Rail I'm designing will sidestep the need for this cumbersome part of the project and perhaps look less daunting to anyone who eyeballs the images and videos and says to himself, "WTF is THAT Thing???!!!"

I've taken some new photos and measurements of the Rochester Multech Fuel Injector and its dimensional relationships with and inside of the GM Fuel Rail to share with everyone on my photo-bucket with an eye towards how I will accomplish this last part of the project and more images will follow as the parts and pieces needed to make, measure, drill, chamfer, cut, bore, polish or...seal... when they can be obtained, modified and installed. At the very least, you will get the gist of what my thinking is and when soon assembled and functioning... this entire apparatus will make perfect, simplified sense upon being viewed by anyone with even a modicum of mechanical ability. Please find the latest images ...here:

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

[60dgrzbelow0]

The new fuel rail design is complete!

Want the "Jam in the Jelly-Roll" first? Go here for the latest (twenty eight) Digital Images ...

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

For those following the progress of this project wanting more build details ...Please... Read On!

Okay Gents... I just finished the design...the mock-up...the fitting and almost 85% of the build on the Newer, Simplified "Third Generation FrankInjector Machine" Fuel Rail today that might interest those with no intentions of trying to find, modify and fit an out-dated and oddly angular GM Fuel Rail from the "Early Days of Yester-Year..." off the 2.8L-3.4L Engines into their own efforts to replicate the construction of their own "FrankInjector Machine".

Briefly... This set up was simple to envision ...but a stone bitch to find all the "Interior Brass" Doo-Dads that will allow it to feed the EFI Cleaning Fluids into two, In-Line Fuel Rails from a single pressure line coming off the Fuel Pressure Gauge from the Original Set-Up I made on the "Second Generation FrankInjector Machine".

The difficulty was in finding just the right size final "down pipe" that would allow for the easy introduction of the upper ends of the Rochester Multech EfIs...and still ensure a good seal around the Outside Diameter of the "Blue" EFI O-Rings. A two foot length of standard 1/2" Copper Tubing came to the rescue when a modified 1" length of threaded Brass Pipe is introduced into the top of a 1 1/2" length of this Copper Piping...and then brazed together...it allows for the Brass ends to be permanently screwed into the In-Line Threaded Ports on the two Chromed NOS Fuel Rails supporting three EFIS per Rail...the other end of the copper pipe has a 1/2" free depth to allow the "Blue" O-Ring to slide up inside and fit snugly against the bored out and chamfered Brass Pipe inside. This idea came after spending too much time looking at a bewildering array of Brass Plumbing Fitting Racks this morning at Home Depot. But in the end...Simplicity beats Complexity...Hands Down! Oddly enough (And I SWEAR I didn't consciously plan this) The Mounts of the New Rail when assembled...lined up with existing holes in the Axial Bracket...Perfectly! Oh well..."Even a Blind Hog in the Woods ...Finds an ACORN once in a while..."

What remains for me to do tomorrow morning is the brazing on of the mated Brass Pipe-to-Copper-Sleeve and then to allow them to cool and be dunked into the UMAX Ultrasonic Machine for a good Hot Cleaning to remove any Solder Resin (Rosin?), Dirt and metal filings from their innards. After that... I'll use some ARP Bolt Sealer to finish the job after tightening all six composite brass/copper fittings into their proper places on the New EFI Fuel Rail. I will still have to work on exactly how I'm going to manage to keep all Six (6) EFIS "High and Tight" inside both rails without popping out under the pressure of 43.4 PSI on the EFI Cleaning Fluids. (I'll sleep on that problem...)

If anyone is struggling with what kind of Bolt Sealer to use on bolts that either live inside naked water jackets in their various engine blocks... or have been needing a great sealer for that Timing Set Replacement/Cam Cover/Water Pump Replacement Job that has you looking at Blue and Black Tubes of HT RTV and wondering if any of that stuff will really do the work ... THEN JUST KNOW THAT THE ARP BOLT SEALER IS THE SH*T THAT WILL DO THE JOB FOR YOU!

Here again is the link to the latest (twenty-eight) sequential design and construction photos... and more will follow tomorrow when the final portions of this "Third Generation FrankInjector Machine" is put together and running!

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

UPDATE:

As a follow on to the need to be able to "Reverse Flush" the injectors... Pocket-Rocket duly noted that both ends of the Rochester Multech EFIs use the same "Blue" O-Rings to plug the other ends into the LIM and suggested that to do this last and perhaps dubiously necessary procedure, I could simply invert the injectors and stick them back into the Axial Mounted GM Fuel Rail on The FrankInjector ...and have at it. I took his suggestion to the device and gave it a try...but due to the design of the lower section of the EFIS being so much wider...they would not fit ...and so would not work on the Second Generation "FrankInjector" HMFICM (Home Made Fuel Injector Cleaning Machine). So...when I can get a dry day outside to set up my work table... I'll turn to on getting the final brazing of these 'plumbing fixtures' and use this latest design to incorporate the "Reverse Flush" Procedures.

[60dgrzbelow0]

The Third Gen "FrankInjector" Machine...Progress!

If your Doctor has you on any kind of "Werdless" Diet... Go here for the latest images taken this evening ... (twenty eight) Digital Images ...

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

For those who don't mind a wade through the verdant and detailed paragraphs for details...Please continue...

Okay Gents... I just finished the design...the mock-up...the fitting and almost 85% of the build on the Newer, Simplified "Third Generation FrankInjector Machine" Fuel Rail today that might interest those with no intentions of trying to find, modify and fit an out-dated and oddly angular GM Fuel Rail from the "Early Days of Yester-Year..." off the 2.8L-3.4L Engines into their own efforts to replicate the construction of their own "FrankInjector Machine".

The difficulty was in finding just the right size final "down pipe" that would allow for the easy introduction of the upper ends of the Rochester Multech EfIs...and still ensure a good seal around the Outside Diameter of the "Blue" EFI O-Rings. A two foot length of standard 1/2" Copper Tubing came to the rescue when a modified 1" length of threaded Brass Pipe is introduced into the top of a 1 1/2" length of this Copper Piping...and then brazed together...it allows for the Brass ends to be permanently screwed into the In-Line Threaded Ports on the two Chromed NOS Fuel Rails supporting three EFIS per Rail...the other end of the copper pipe has a 1/2" free depth to allow the "Blue" O-Ring to slide up inside and fit snugly against the bored out and chamfered Brass Pipe inside. This idea came after spending too much time looking at a bewildering array of Brass Plumbing Fitting Racks this morning at Home Depot. But in the end...Simplicity beats Complexity...Hands Down! Oddly enough (And I SWEAR I didn't consciously plan this) The Mounts of the New Rail when assembled...lined up with existing holes in the Axial Bracket...Perfectly! Oh well..."Even a Blind Hog in the Woods ...Finds an ACORN once in a while..."

What remains for me to do tomorrow morning is the brazing on of the mated Brass Pipe-to-Copper-Sleeve and then to allow them to cool and be dunked into the UMAX Ultrasonic Machine for a good Hot Cleaning to remove any Solder Resin (Rosin?), Dirt and metal filings from their innards. After that... I'll use some ARP Bolt Sealer to finish the job after tightening all six composite brass/copper fittings into their proper places on the New EFI Fuel Rail. I will still have to work on exactly how I'm going to manage to keep all Six (6) EFIS "High and Tight" inside both rails without popping out under the pressure of 43.4 PSI on the EFI Cleaning Fluids. (I'll sleep on that problem...When I can get a dry day outside to set up my work table... I'll turn to on getting the final brazing of these 'plumbing fixtures' and use this latest design to incorporate the "Reverse Flush" Procedures.

All of this work was completed this evening and the Mockup and Construction of the Third Generation FrankInjector Machine is finished! What remains for Saturday Morning is to finish setting up the high pressure Fuel Line connection between the hose coming from the "Out" side of the Fuel Pressure Gauge and into the Brass Barbed "T" connecting the two-three EFI Position NOS Fuel Blocks together. After that, it remains that I have to design a newer and more simplified "Acrylic Drain Down Piping and Fittings" that will accept all of the outflow from the now completely vertically positioned EFIs during their Pressure Cleaning Cycles and drain down from the In-Line hose matrix into a single Acrylic Hose feeding into the Clear Plastic Jug at the Base of the Frame for EFI Cleaner Re-Cycling. Then its just a matter of attaching the adjustable air line toi the Aluminum Pressure Cylnder with a small amount of EFI Cleaning Fluid for Testing Purpose and slowly raising the air pressure to about 50 PSI Max... to test all the fittings and connections on the Rail and the mate ups to the EFIs via the Copper Tubing Adapters for any possible leaks. If the New 3rd Gen FrankInjector passes Muster... then I'll attach the two OTC EFI Testers to their respective two-wire harnesses on either side of both Fuel Blocks, then power up the Modified ATX Power Supply...and with a freshly filled Aluminum Pressure Cylinder topped off with the Binary EFI Cleaning Solution...I'll trigger the two OTCs and we'll see what happens. If the Pressure Cleaning Cycle works out and is safe to continue doing, I'll move on to trying the New Rail out while performing a the Flow Balance Test with All Six (6) Injectors into the 50ml Graduated Test Cylinders. Naturally.. I'll shoot enough videos and images to cover the remaining work areas that can be done over this weekend and post them all to my photo-bucket site.

You might notice that I solved that little problem of how to get the injectors to stay tight inside of the Copper Tubing...without using any Moon Clips... by using small sections of half-split Acrylic Hose and Two S/S Clamps per Injector to act like "Clear Bungee Cord" to hold each side in place. I slid the "Shorty" Acrylic Tubes over the ends of the Copper Tubes spouts and then, after sliding in the "BLUE" O-Ringed Tops of all the EFIs... I used a larger S/S clamp to hold the split open ends after they wrapped around the middle of each EFI and clamped the two together. This did the trick! The Hose and clamps do not interfere either with the Wire Harnesses of the Acrylic Down Drains on each EFI. What a surprise it was to finally figure THAT damned problem out!

Here are a handful of the latest of the many more new images that are posted there now...

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

Oh... And of course... when all is said and done on this latest iteration... I'll plug the EFIs into the New Fuel Rail...UPSIDE DOWN... and try to make them "Reverse Flush", too ...just for drill... I hope the replacement of the original GM Fuel Rail-Manifold with this new rig makes it easier to understand how this machine works and what the benefits of using it might mean for anyone who wants to clean their EFIs more than once every ten years...

[60dgrzbelow0]

Uh Ohhhhhh...That CAN'T Be Good......

Okay...Saturday Morning...A Fresh Start on the last things to do on the Last Version and Build of "The FrankInjector" Machine. I mocked up the Acrylic Drain Lines and after removing all the old sub-piping and re clamping too many S/S clamps than I'd care to count... I went ahead with the re-hosing and attachment of the various high-pressure fuel lines to allow the down flow of the EFI Cleansing Fluid to enter the Brass "T" fitting that feeds the stuff into both of the three port NOS Fuel Blocks holding three EFIs a piece. No Problem! Everything lined up and connected like on Versions One and Two (already proven versions of this machine)... with an appropriate drain angle so the last hose connection in the series that drops the used EFI Cleaner into the Gallon Plastic Receptacle.

It looked "Pretty"...So Very "Pretty"...

But... A Little Problem Raised its UGLY Head!

No sooner had I connected the fuel line coming out of the "Out" side of the Fuel Pressure Gauge to the Brass "T" (which was arguably a lucky event while it was leaking out a steady stream of cleaner) and tightened the clamps... then...Came the Flood!

When I decided to use "The Brass Pipe Inside the Copper Tubing" solution as the means to mate the upper EFIs to the NOS Fuel Blocks... I thought I had the mating tolerances snug enough that the "BLUE" O-Rings on each EFI would seal under any and all pressurized conditions. Ooops. Remember when that cool physicist, Dr. Richard Feynman, showed those Yo-Yos at NASA and Morton Thiokol why the first Space Shuttle blew up? All he needed was a Rubber Band...a Pair of Vice-Grips and Bucket of Ice Water... He clamped the Rubber Band in the Tool and held it up with the other end of the stretchy band to prove he had it squeezed as tightly as possible...then he dunked them both in the Ice Water...Result? Instant Failure... and the reason was because of the thermal considerations of the materials being used ...were NOT considered. This turned out to be exactly what I did...wrong. Here is Feynman...straightening out NASA and THIOKOL...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qAi_9quzUY&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghNG-xkbV2M&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sl8UjQ6yx_Y&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQmmnlsj5F4&feature=related

Move over Captain Ben..and let me take the Helm of the FAIL BOAT for just a while...because this morning I EARNED it. What I did not realize was that after standing "The FrankInjector Machine" in the bright, hot Florida Sunshine...all that metal Brass Piping and Copper Tubing heated up and since expansion is the only thing that happens when things get HOT....Bingo...the interface between the "BLUE" O-Rings and the Copper end pipes got very loose ...very quickly...and all the EFI Cleaning Fluid was POURING out around the top of each EFI...just with a Gravity Feed, too!...and that Little Problem means my idea of doing this has FAILED!

Now there are only three possible things I can do to rectify the problem:

1. Scrap the latest Copper Tube design and try to find some threaded blocks of another kind of metal that I can machine open enough to accept the compressed "BLUE" O-Rings.

2. Try to find some REALLY FAT O-Rings that will compensate for the Thermal Expansion Problem and seal them puppies up high and tight.

3. Abandon the Third Generation FrankInjector Idea...and be satisfied with the design and functionality of the Second Gen version using the GM Fuel Rail...and be done with it.

I'm open to any suggestions here that might salvage all my work on the Third Gen...and if that happens...and potential builders who want to do their build of this device without the necessity of the GM Fuel Rail...will be VERY HAPPY! I'll drop these four attached images at my photobucket site with the other images and videos of better working days on the earlier successful versions:

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

"They Look "Pretty", Colonel... Very "Pretty".... But can they FIGHT?" (Donald Sutherland to Robert Ryan while imitating an incognito General inspecting his "Troops" in the movie "The Dirty Dozen")

[60dgrzbelow0]

John...(Forced Firebird) If you're out there and following this thread, I remember when you were building your Bench Flow Machine that you were working with either Lexan, Lucite or some other kind of plastic materials in portions of the brackets, etc. I woke up around 3:00 AM this morning (4, if you disregard DST ), thinking about using a long, rectangular block of clear plastic (perhaps 2" square X 14" in length...solid) that I could center drill from one end and then bore, countersink and smooth out the Six (6) properly sized inlet port holes to accept and super-seal the upper "BLUE" O-Ringed ends of the EFIs. Then, all I need to do is thread the long drill hole for brass EFI Cleaning Solution In-Flow Port Fuel Line Fitting...and THAT would solve all my problems of working with difficult metals to get this damned thing built in the simplest way possible. Drilling Bracket Mount holes would be a snap to do as well on either end of this "Clear EFI Cleaner Fuel Rail". Using this kind of stable material would also solve the problem of thermal expansion and contraction, too. The only problem is... I have no idea where I can lay my hands on such an exotic, raw building material.

So again... John ...anybody... "Lurkers"...too... Come on guys... lend a Friend a hand here... Please? ...and tell me where I can find something like this to try out.

[robertisaar]

i didn't know it was safe to have lexan in constant contact with fuel/solvents....

[60dgrzbelow0]

I didn't know it was safe to have Lexan in constant contact with fuel/solvents....

I'm not certain that ANY of them can resist these solvents, either... this idea is tenuous at best until somebody can give me some definitive information.

But YOU Sir, have just given me another interesting idea to try out!

What if I were to stand or suspend a 12" X 1/2" length of Copper Tubing, with a Brass Barbed Fuel Inlet brazed in the upper end of the Copper Tubing, centered inside of a 14" X 2" square vertical rectangular mold (I have some sheets of Lexan available to construct such a simple container) and then fill the damned thing entirely up with a big batch of JB-Weld... and then let it cure for a day or so? THAT stuff is completely impervious to any kind of chemical or fuel.

Hmmmm... This Could Work!

The presence of the Copper Tube inside precludes the need to drill out a primary channel for the EFI Cleaning Solutions to reach from one end of the rail to the other...and would act like a length of 'Re-Rod' inside there to give it structural strength and avoid having it fracture when drilling out the six, symmetrically spaced Inlet Holes for the "BLUE" O-Ringed ends of each EFI!

Wait... It gets better!... Scratch the need for drilling the port holes into the hardened JB-Weld at all! Remember Pocket-Rocket's idea about the using 3100 LIM that lead to the discussion about my failed try at using the 3100 Tubular Fuel Rail with the oddly angled EFI Inlet Ports? Well... Now I CAN use those same ports by trimming/grinding them off of the Stock GM Pipe Rail and attaching them at equally spaced intervals along the Copper Pipe via small drill holes and hold them in place there with some small sheet metal screws. Then, after taping/sealing off the open feed-in ends of the Six (6) ports, I can mix up the JB-Weld in quantity and pour the stuff down into the vertical mold. Then...set it on a shelf....and let things get harder than Chinese Math.

After a decent cure time of 24 hours, I can the remove the New Composite Fuel Rail from inside the Lexan Mold and peel off the taped-sealed off EFI Ports, unscrew the hold-down screws inside of them and carefully drill out slightly larger holes in the middle area where the holes in the Copper Pipe mate up with each EFI Port. When this is complete, I'll spray some high pressure air and cleaning solvent throughout the piping from the feed-in end of the rail to clean out all traces of any loose metal drilling fragments and the New Composite Fuel Rail will be complete and ready for testing!

Robertisaar...YOU ARE A GENIUS!!! ..What do you think?

[robertisaar]

Robertisaar...YOU ARE A GENIUS!!! ..What do you think?

YOU'RE the one that keeps coming up with fixes, not me, i just make observations....

[60dgrzbelow0]

Or.................................

Just get a sturdier length of Brass Pipe....and braze the Six (6) cut-off Multech EFI Ports DIRECTLY on the pipe????

Hmmmm....

I wish I had another 3100 Fuel Rail to experiment with. But ...What the Hell! ... I have the one to work with right now...so what have I got to lose? If it works, I'll have a much simpler and easier-to-replicate design and I can get back to trying to improving the "FrankInjector's" performance and clean me some more EFI sets...Really Good!

[60dgrzbelow0]

YOU'RE the one that keeps coming up with fixes, not me, i just make observations....

I'm sorry Buddy... But all Successful Problem Solving is a Participatory Sport...So you'll just have to accept the "Genius" title... because each and every time you've mentioned something... It has made me Bang My Coconut Against the Idea Wall even harder to come up with New Stuff... Stuff I would not have thought of on my own...Otherwise!

[60dgrzbelow0]

I just got another idea on how the making of this New Composite Fuel Rail can be done more effectively:

First, please note that there will be a Brass Barbed EFI Cleaning Fluid/Fuel Inlet Fitting brazed into one end of the 14" X 1/2" length of Copper Tubing and an appropriate Copper End Cap brazed onto the other end to effectively seal the EFI Cleaner within the Copper Tubing, with no place to go but out through the Six (6) Inlet Ports and stream under pressure through the Six (6) mounted EFIs. The Brass Barbed Fuel-In Fitting will NOT be exposed to the JB-Weld, as the Lexan "Mini-Cake Mold" will be modified on one end to allow the Brass fitting to slide through a drilled out section on the end of the mold; tight fitting enough to prevent the JB-Weld from oozing out of the Mold or contaminating the Brass Barbed EFI Fuel Inlet.

If the Direct Brazing of the Inlet Ports onto a 14" length of Brass Pipe Idea fails, then instead of pouring the JB-Weld down and on top of the Copper Pipe and all around the Inlet Ports with the 14" X 2" Square Lexan Mold standing on its end, I'll just make a rectangular "Mini-Cake Mold" that sets down in a flat, horizontal position and after being "Buttered" inside with some Petroleum Jelly to keep the JB-Weld from sticking to the Mold, I will either:

(1) Pour the stuff into the Mold FIRST and slowly submerge the Copper Pipe in a level, horizontal position with the Inlet Ports facing straight up, right to within say 1/4" of the stuff reaching the outer, upper edge of the Inlet Port, right below where the metal rim is rolled over to allow the "BLUE" O-Rings their entry point...

--==Or==--

(2) With the Inlet Ports held to the Copper Tubing with self-threading screws facing straight up, then rigidly fix the the Copper Tubing horizontally and level within the Lexan "Mini-Cake Mold" to the proper depth. Then gradually pour in the mixed JB-Weld to the same level I described exactly as in (1) above until the apparatus is properly submerged and covered.

Regardless of which of these two methods is chosen, when the JB-Weld and the Copper Tubing "Become ONE", then the "Mini-Cake Mold" gets covered with Saran Wrap and set on the level shelf for at least a whole day to "cure" and solidify rock hard. After that... I can remove the finished, molded item from its Lexan Mold, tape off the Inlet Port Openings and the Brass Barbed EFI Fuel Inlet to keep crap from getting inside the Fuel Rail...and carve, grind and adjust the final molded product into the finished rail. If this "Recipe" turns out to be a good one... the next post(s) of mine will show the latest images and videos of the finished item I'm calling "New Composite Fuel Rail" mounted on "The FrankInjector"Machine and actively being tested and put through its paces. (Fingers Crossed...)


Morpheus says..."This is your last chance... Once you take the Red Pill to Design and Build "The FrankInjector"... There is No Going Back..."

Later...Deep Inside "The Matrix Project Area"...

Bobby says... You know what I'm thinking..., "Why...Oh Why Didn't I take The BLUE Pill?!!!"

[60dgrzbelow0]

Okay...A short update...

I took the 3100 Fuel Rail to the bench and cut out the EFI External Ports that were either stamped in ...or robot-welded on.. by simply cutting a 1/2" section of the Fuel Line on either side of the fittings and then cut and ground off the back side of the attached Fuel Line Pipe to leave enough of a flange to clamp the fittings in a straight, level line along the length of new pipe 14" Brass Pipe I'll be brazing them to in the morning.

I wanted to do this tonight... but unfortunately, down here in wonderful Florida...we have this infinitesimally small "Bug" called "No-See-Ums" that are invisible...that is...until they fly up your nose...down inside your ears and along your ball cap... and BITE you like a friggin' Land Shark! And besides that... my O2 Tank is empty and I'll need to get the brazing kit re-upped with supplies in the morning. If all goes well... I'll have the parts and pieces together and mounted on "Frank" for a pressure test ASAP...and I'm going to pick up some Brand New "BLUE" O-Rings to be sure that they are eliminated as being a problem on the older sets I've been using for the cleanings so far. When I'm done with it... I'll shoot new photos and, if it is not leaking all over everything, some video of the damned thing finally working just as I imagine it will.

[robertisaar]

we have those annoying little bugs as well, they seem to float around in a swarm that you can't see until you walk through it.... "luckily" its too cold for them to be out here...

simplicity is key.

[60dgrzbelow0]

Simplicity is Key.

Sage Advice that my enemies will want as a remarkably telling and intelligent statement embroidered in bold red into my Death Shroud and also...clearly outlined in the Stone Pathway they desire to have available to traipse down while walking over my Grave...

[60dgrzbelow0]

Ther Curse of Presbyopia....

Today has been one of those days when I woke up and didn't know whether I was Shot, F*cked, Stabbed...or Snakebit.... Or perhaps... One of Each...

I went and re-upped what Brazing/Welding Supplies I could find from the minimum available at Home Depot and came back to dive in on trying to work the Brass Parts into something resembling the attached Diagram of what it is I'm trying to fabricate...(Sorry... I'm no CAD designer, so this is the best I could do.)

It all Seemed simple enough until I wound up wasting too much O2/MAP Gas trying to get the brass fittings to "wet" enough with the beading flux-coated rod to fill in the base metal with what I thought was thin Brass.... It took me a couple of failed attempts at trying this before I realized that the microscopically fine label text on the welding rod package said "Nickel-Silver". Dammit! So...tomorrow, I'll go to the local AirGas Company instead and buy the right materials to get this accursed EFI Rail built. Hopefully by then, I will have also un-wedged my Head from my Ass and I'll be able to RTFI,DA!

(Read The F'n Instructions, Dumb Ass!)

What's Presbyopia? When you turn 40....You'll find out!

http://www.aoa.org/x4697.xml