3500 swap questions

[PCGUY112887]

Dunno, depends if I can ever get this thing outta there.

I think I am going to take a bolt that fits as tight as I can get and JBWeld it in, then pray I can twist it out with a wrench when it dries. I did go ahead and stick a screwdriver in there however I could not feel anything I could "grip" onto.

Can anyone think of any last resort option to get this out, that does not involve taking the engine out or apart? I am afraid that if I JBWeld this in and it doesn't come out for some reason, I am going to wind up with a bolt stuck in my head via JBWeld. Or that I am going to twist and the "body" of the sensor that is stuck inside is going to break and fall into the cooling system and down into the block. How bad would that be?

[wasas9]

still going to need that adaptor when i get back to wisconsin?

[PCGUY112887]

Well I think my mom came up with a good idea...

JB Weld a small screwdriver into the temp sensor "body", let it dry then twist. This way I don't risk putting inwards force on this empty brass shell, breaking it into the engine then having part of a sensor in my cooling system.

[3400-95-Modified]

Or use short alan head socket screws... Stainless of course Mine are so easy to get out... I said f those studs when I saw the clearances.

With mine, I have to remove the AC compressor, motor mount, then undo 2 near impossible bolts because they bent the tubes in such a way that the studs don't go right on, the nut on the studs hits the header so you have to put it on very very VERY carefully with some force and scratch the header to get it on. Then the crossover has to come off too.

When you have a situation like that you can put a small ding in the header tube or go to home depot and buy some of their steel tubing in the diameter needed to fit the stud, cut off a short sleeve and put it on before the nut so that you don't have to screw it all the way down to the flange. Make sure you paint the sleeve with high temp paint or it will rust over the years.

[PCGUY112887]

With mine, I have to remove the AC compressor, motor mount, then undo 2 near impossible bolts because they bent the tubes in such a way that the studs don't go right on, the nut on the studs hits the header so you have to put it on very very VERY carefully with some force and scratch the header to get it on. Then the crossover has to come off too.

[3400-95-Modified]

You can use an easy out with a tap handle or adjustable wrench too, you don't need a drill.

And your front header isnt easy to remove??

Mine that is the easiest one to take out, 8 bolts, and voila slides right out easier than the old manifold and cross over that was there.

But wouldn't an easy out just end up breaking the rest of the brass off inside the engine? Unless there is an easyout made to go onto a screwdriver, there is no way I am getting a drill in there. Remember, I am in an engine bay putting my hands around a header crossover. I saw your warning, but after it was already done.

It isn't screwed in hard, as soon as the base of the sensor touched the head it fell apart. I knew not to torque it hard, but it was barely any torque at all.

Superdave how did you use a screwdriver?

I feel like I'm going to puke

There HAS to be a way to get this out without pulling the engine to get to the head.

Like Superdave said, a flat tip screw driver should take it out, make sure you use one in like new condition with square edges that can bite down into the brass, you should be able to tap it in a little to make grip marks in the sensor tube. If you can find one use a screw driver that is not much larger than the hole so that you have a larger contact area with the screw driver. I had to do this once to remove the threaded area of an IAC motor that I broke off in a throttle body.

[PCGUY112887]

Use an easy out, there is already a hole in the middle of it for the sensor.

THIS IS WHY I SAID DONT TURN DOWN THE WHOLE THREAD AREA!!!!!!!!!!

Same reason why daves fell apart.

ONLY thread it in about 4 threads worth of space, so measure that out and then you'll know.

But wouldn't an easy out just end up breaking the rest of the brass off inside the engine? Unless there is an easyout made to go onto a screwdriver, there is no way I am getting a drill in there. Remember, I am in an engine bay putting my hands around a header crossover. I saw your warning, but after it was already done.

It isn't screwed in hard, as soon as the base of the sensor touched the head it fell apart. I knew not to torque it hard, but it was barely any torque at all.

Superdave how did you use a screwdriver?

I feel like I'm going to puke

There HAS to be a way to get this out without pulling the engine to get to the head.

[Superdave]

mine just broke on the lathe, not because they were threadding it all the way.. they only had about 1/4" or so cut down...


I had a stock LS1 sensor break off in the head when i was assembling the engine, i freaked for like 5 minutes.. then just used a small flat head screwdriver to turn it out.. came out easier than it went in.

[3400-95-Modified]

Use an easy out, there is already a hole in the middle of it for the sensor.

THIS IS WHY I SAID DONT TURN DOWN THE WHOLE THREAD AREA!!!!!!!!!!

Same reason why daves fell apart.

ONLY thread it in about 4 threads worth of space, so measure that out and then you'll know.

[IsaacHayes]

LOL sorry. Can you get anything in there to pinch and untwist it? damn. Must be screwed hard in there too.

[PCGUY112887]

I really do have the worse luck...

GUESS WHERE THE OTHER HALF IS!

How in the HELL am I going to fix this now?!? Either I SOMEHOW get all of the threads out (which are fairly flush with the head btw), or I JBWeld this SOB on there and hope I never have to replace it (it is brand new).

I should have just waited for the fucking adapter...

[PCGUY112887]

You sure it isn't M12x1.5? I had my uncle take it to work and he measured out M12x1.5 and cut it to that, haven't put it all the way in yet but it seems to fit.

Here is mine...
Machined sensor on top (machined all of the stock threads down, didn't hit any wires?)

Stock 3500 sensor in the middle

Stock 3 wire sensor on the bottom.

[Superdave]

I emailed them that exact picture...

i'd get the adapter but all the carquest stores around here say they just can't get it.. they can special order it from the factory but that could take weeks...