3500 crank

[bob442]

what exactly happened?

[kwhauck]

damn, so 2 1/2 years after i started this thread.......i get my stroker rotating assembly from the shop in Colorado, and then it is back to SD where I need to find a new machine shop to finalize things up for me...

pictures and details will be posted when i get the stuff but basically

JE stock compress pistons, manley rods, 3.7 displacement with a 10mm stroke

[kwhauck]

not to thread jump here, but if that motor doesn't work out for you, I have a 3500 forged crank I would be willing to let go of for cheap.

[bob442]

it was from a 05 malibu, # read on crank 4122111, # on timing chain cover 12593231 2374 ROUSH, and block was 3074. I would *like* to get the forged crank as i am an abusive driver, need i say more?
i got the crank number from here (its blurry as hell so i wrote it down)

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/003-3.jpg

Roush?

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a351/bob442/001-5.jpg

I just want to clear on thing up, the forged crank is the better of the 2 cranks? and to inspect if you have the right crank with out dropping the oil pan, you remove the ballancer bolt, and you will see the number 7484, or do you have to remove the ballancer? i'm Just curious, a complete motor popped up for $300 with 70xxx km. a picture showing where the number is would be sweet. thanks.

It may or may not show up behind the balancer bolt as in once you remove it you can look for it at the end of the crankshaft. The easiest thing to do is get the year make and model it is from and call GM for a part number. If they list two numbers for it you'll need to check, if they only list one then you shouldn't have to worry about it. I believe GM switched to making all of the cranks from forged steel in the later engines of the series.

[bob442]

I just want to clear on thing up, the forged crank is the better of the 2 cranks? and to inspect if you have the right crank with out dropping the oil pan, you remove the ballancer bolt, and you will see the number 7484, or do you have to remove the ballancer? i'm Just curious, a complete motor popped up for $300 with 70xxx km. a picture showing where the number is would be sweet. thanks.

[Driver_10]

The 3500 rod is 5.9", I coudn't find the rod length of a 3400 on Alldata or Mitchell. Chevy rods are stock length at 5.7", altho nearly any length can be ordered. The difference of .200" leaves the stock height 3400 piston about -.075" in the hole..

Lots of engines share the 92mm (3.62") bore, so it would only be a matter of searching to yeild a piston with the correct pin height to get zero deck.

With the 60 degree deck height of 8.818", minus the stroke divided by 2, minus the rod length, and you need a piston with around 1.333" pin height. The stock 3500 piston has a 1.263" pin height.
(8.818 -(3.56/2)-5.7=1.333)

The 4.3l v6 rod has a similar journal bore (only a hair smaller) and has plenty of aftermarket support. There are verying legnths and style (I-beam, scat ect) from different manufactures. The wrist-pin bore is slightly larger in the 3500 piston and would require some resizing reguardless.

[El_Diablo]

thats what i went by when i bought my block, lol

[SappySE107]

The parting line was what I was going by. Its wide

[Superdave]

bringing this back from the dead..

i found this article: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...to/index1.html


also asked some local guys and they seem to agree that the 7484 crank is infact forged steel. They said that the parting line gives it away.

[TurboGTU]

If you dont cut it down..the larger jurnals will help with intergrity. RPM will kill a crank not just raw power. Lightening the rotating mass can help too.

I say it can hadle the power.

[34blazer]

Probably the most productive route to getting a definitive answer would be to take the crank or at least the specs to a reputable machine shop preferably someone with race knowledge and have them assess it. I doubt however given the quality the crank has over stock iron 3800 cranks that it should be a concern.

I believe your efforts would be better placed in the main caps because the 60 degree angle will allow for more stress on them than the 90 degree block of the 3.8 would.

with cross-bolted mains, im pretty confident they can handle some serious power. if curtis made 470 some hp on his stock mains and crank, im pretty sure the 3x00 bottom end can handle above and beyond that number.

i understand what you are implying, my main concern is will it hold up to 600 hp? if it was forged id feel alot better, and possibly raise the bar a little more. i asked a few times in the past if anyone pushed the 3x00 past the 500hp threshold and didnt get much of a response. so this is new territory to me. when i had my buick, i wasnt hard to find out that the factory turbo 3.8 could handle well into the 500hp range. when i build mine i still bought a forged crank to bolster the bottom end, which my goal was in the 600hp range as well. so thats why im asking, but i dont want to create a ruckus.

Probably the most productive route to getting a definitive answer would be to take the crank or at least the specs to a reputable machine shop preferably someone with race knowledge and have them assess it. I doubt however given the quality the crank has over stock iron 3800 cranks that it should be a concern.

I believe your efforts would be better placed in the main caps because the 60 degree angle will allow for more stress on them than the 90 degree block of the 3.8 would.

[34blazer]

i understand what you are implying, my main concern is will it hold up to 600 hp? if it was forged id feel alot better, and possibly raise the bar a little more. i asked a few times in the past if anyone pushed the 3x00 past the 500hp threshold and didnt get much of a response. so this is new territory to me. when i had my buick, i wasnt hard to find out that the factory turbo 3.8 could handle well into the 500hp range. when i build mine i still bought a forged crank to bolster the bottom end, which my goal was in the 600hp range as well. so thats why im asking, but i dont want to create a ruckus.

in that case hopefully someone can verify with a definite answer. because im unsure im gonna do some research on how to actually determine the testing. i just dont want to go out and buy 2 or 3 3500 cranks to find out they are cast, because id like to have a crank to support my hp goals.

I don't see what all the fuss is about, all of the 3900 engines get a steel crankshaft, the difference between the cast 3500 crank and the steel 3500 crank is clear and distinctive visually especially when it comes to the seam on the throw. The 3500 steel crank also carries the same part number as at least the 06 3900 steel crank and to my knowledge the only reason the part number may have changed is because the press on crank trigger wheel changed in 07 I believe on at least some vehicles.

My 04 and 05 3500 engines both had steel cranks with the last 4 digits of the steel crank part number visible by removing the balancer bolt with the balancer in place. My 3900 crank does not have the number in that location but it is identical to the steel 3500 crank in the picture I posted. I highly doubt your concern is warranted, just make sure the crank looks like the one posted in the picture and you can't go wrong.