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For those who have been anxiously waiting, I have put together some pics on how to use the gages. I have been trying to get this done for about three weeks and could never find the time to do it the way I wanted so I will throw this out there until something nicer gets done. I had planned to relieve a front cover for illustration but have not had enough time to do so. For the time being, I am attaching the pics to this post since we have had some issues with our ISP and server.
Below are pics of the news gages, how each gage is used, a modified crank and the crank modification drawing.
With cam in block, check clearance around upper gear using "BLOCK GAGE". This is done by placing end with hole against cam hub and rotating around center of cam. The "A" tab represents enough clearance for the chain in it's most rear position. This portion of the gage should be used in areas where the chain is engaged with the upper gear. Tab "B" on "BLOCK GAGE" is used to check areas between the sprockets where the chain is not held in place. To use gage, place the edge against the face of the block and move tab "B" along chain route.
The "Cover Gage" has two two steps and is used with a straight edge across the face of the cover. The shortest height is minimum depth where chain engages sprockets. The taller step allows for clearance in the areas between the sprockets. If cover is cut on a milling machine, it would be easiest to use the tallest portion all around.
These gages should provide enough clearance but it is advised to use feeler gages to check the actual clearance between chain and block. This should be done when pushing the chain towards the block. Areas where the chain is engaged with sprockets only require .020" clearance while areas between sprockets need .050". Additional clearance does not hurt anything and will allow for future chain wear and slop.Last edited by CNCguy; 06-10-2008, 05:18 PM.
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Ok. So both of us are on the same page.
The new gauges should be on their way. I think.
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Nope. I looked at it with him for a couple of minutes and we didnt figure it out. We just used the specs. listed for clearances. Havent done the timing cover yet though. Im waiting to get the block back from a different shop so we can test fit as we go.Originally posted by blackbombshell95 View PostThat's fine but does your shop know how and where to use the gauge?
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That's fine but does your shop know how and where to use the gauge?
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I just told my shop what the clearances need to be.Originally posted by blackbombshell95 View PostAny updates on how to use the gauge? My machine shop has my engine and your timing chain kit waiting for instructions. I dropped off my engine/ timing kit on last monday.
Thanks
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Any updates on how to use the gauge? My machine shop has my engine and your timing chain kit waiting for instructions. I dropped off my engine/ timing kit on last monday.
Thanks
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I need to buy one right now.
Get that research done so that I can get the first set from Ben.
Ty Marc. I'm glad to see Ben already has a few sets.
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Glad that these are done. I plan on picking a set up the second they hit the store
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remove the 4 main caps and oil pump, and also the rod caps.. keeping them in order of course. Also you'd probably have to remove the timing cover...
it's pretty easy to get it out, maybe 20-30 minutes if it's on an engine stand.
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With the oilpan off of the block how hard will it be to remove the crank?? That is what matters the most to me.
Thanks for the update Marc.
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MMmmm glad to see these are done. I dont think the machining is that big of a deal. Most people looking at a double roller timing set are already into some big dollar mods and the cost of such little machining wont be that big of a deal. I cant wait until these are on sale in the store.
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I want a set as soon as they are ready. Has a price been set and are you going to confirm the machining before selling them.?
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