7500 will be an absolute redline for this motor. I dont intend to shift any higher than 7200 (which should fit the torque/power curve of my cam grind beautifully).
Im running 122# comp-cams springs on stock 3500 valves w/ .523 max lift intake and exhaust. Im using Crower cromoly steel Rollr-rockers and hardened push-rods.
The vote seems unanimous that I can get away with this on hydro lifters. Does anyone have any high-rpm dyno read-outs that I can glance at? If its do-"able", then Id rather run hydro tappets.
P.S. Forced_Firebird spoke briefly about it, but how does one modify a roller hydro tappet for high rpms.?
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need 3500 rocker arm studs
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Originally posted by SappySE107 View PostHydraulic lifters work to 7000 RPM as lorenzo has proven on the dyno. Valve float would equal power loss, and there was none.
Redline is the best oil now?
they work a lil past that actually ive seen 7,800 rpms unintentionally (mis set the shift light) with no sign of valve float.
though i do purposely take it to 7,4-7,500 without issues
the valve springs are 125 #'s seat and iirc just over 35x open at .550 or .600
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Originally posted by Driver_10 View PostWhat kind of modding can be done to the lifters?
EDIT: http://60degreev6.com/forum/f96/lift...841/post366863Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-19-2008, 09:02 PM.
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Originally posted by Superdave View PostI've ran mine to ~7100 on the dyno with no float...
I run Royal Purple 15w40
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I've ran mine to ~7100 on the dyno with no float...
I run Royal Purple 15w40
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If that was the real reason then it would need squirters on all cylinders, not just 5&6. What I'm trying to get at here is GM discovered a cooling problem with this engine in just those cylinders. The squirter is their cheapest/easiest fix for it. Removing it without any other cooling system mods may be asking for trouble. I understand that you need more oil volume. I'm just wondering if you thought about what would happen if you remove that squirter.
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You also forgeting that the 3500 runs a higher c.r. on regular unleaded fuel. It needs the additional cooling. I need the oil volume at the crank. Ill be running looser clearances and more oil sheering so I cant afford the losses at the squirter.
Besides, Ill also have meth-injection and the ability to run flex fuel from time to time. I just dont need the squirters.
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Originally posted by Driver_10 View PostI'm removing and blocking the #5&6 oil squirters and widening the main-oil channels feeding the crank to boost oil flow to the mains.
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Ive wittnessed it while watching a "heads and cam" Ls1 on the dyno. From what Ive seen, you get "spongey lifters" at around 6700rpms with a stock Ls1 shortblock.
Given, the LS7 uses hydraulic lifters and it has a 1.7:1 rockers and stiffer springs to boot. But I imagine that there is a bit of power loss somewhere on the dyno as it neres redline.
I will be shifting at 7200 rpms and would rather rely on convetional hot-rodder knowlege.
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Hydraulic lifters work to 7000 RPM as lorenzo has proven on the dyno. Valve float would equal power loss, and there was none.
Redline is the best oil now?
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Driver 10, Any more info on building a 60*V6 that'll handle repeated trips to 7000-7500 RPM and survive would be much appreciated....I'd prever to stay hydraulic roller though.
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Its not torture. Your bottom end wont have a problem. Your rods will have to be strong that's all. Balance it as best as possible and keep the everything on the valve side of the rocker arm light. The engine will do fine. Just don't let her detonate LOL.
For any engine going racing you need to run a synthetic oil and Redline is the best.
You are using a 3400 block right?
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